anyone uses techron fuel system cleaner?

Explain, please. Fuel additives don’t continue working after they’re used up. They’re pretty much a one and done type product. If the fuel additive contains an UCL, it’s possible for the UCL characteristics to remain for a short period of time once the additive has been depleted. That is however, up for debate.

It sounds like you’re assuming the spark plug deposits are a sign that the additive is continuing to work, even after the addtivized fuel has been consumed. Those deposit/ashy deposits are just a side effect of the fuel system cleaner, they don’t continue cleaning while on the spark plug. I may have completely misunderstood what you were saying, if so then I apologize.

Howdy Blinker,

I am not assuming... I know. :giggle: OK so , I NEVER mention spark plug deposits either. ;) I also did not say anything that the additives being gone once added to the fuel tank. I did say that in my case the dilution factor is less because I fill at 1/2 tank where most other people are more commonly filling closer to empty. So the additive dilution would be 95% or greater with most and not with me.

Ok so we can be on the same page... I do not really read deposits unless it is with a customers or freind engine I am working on. The only deposits I ever get that cause me to go "CRAP" is when I blow to much nitrous in an engine and start to melt the spark plug . LOL Other wise those deposit you speak about like most get do not exists on my spark plugs. There are reason mostly what my inductive systems have for augmentations and the fact that I change my spark plug so often most would consider me crazy or thankful when I offer my used plugs with less then 5000 miles on them LOL .
Spark plugs readings are generally misunderstood because most will use charts that explain how a spark plug is suppose to look that are dated all the back to the 1950's and older. Reading a spark plug is very complex and takes a complete understanding of what is going on in the combustion chambers and carefully examine several point of the spark plug even the thread and boot terminals. It also means to measure the spark plug ohms resistance and the coil condition as well and if one has access to run a data log on an oscilloscope of the complete ignition and charging system.

There is always a different color around the area of the spark plugs mostly close to the nose of the insulator. You can also detect a slight rainbowing on the center electrode. when many fuel additives are used in gasoline. The easiest to detect are the so called OCTANE BOOSTERS. Those "snake oils" IMO by observation more then 1 ,2 or 100+ times (lol) can completely ruin any chance of doing good spark plug readings.

Oh and lastly I scope my combustion chamber and intake runner often on my DI engine and those fuel additive pictures showing how clean things are when they are used are not the same as what I see when I use them in different engine so I always go hmmmmmm follow the money!! LOL

Hope this explains a little thank you for the interest in my comments
 
Thanks for the clarification. I missed the part where you stated you fill up at half a tank. So in reality you start off with a really strong concentration, and slowly work down to a lower concentration. I wonder if this helps aid in carbon buildup removal. I’m sure there is a study somewhere.
 
Thanks for the clarification. I missed the part where you stated you fill up at half a tank. So in reality you start off with a really strong concentration, and slowly work down to a lower concentration. I wonder if this helps aid in carbon buildup removal. I’m sure there is a study somewhere.
ZERO at least in my 2018 MAZDA 3 Skyactiv 2.5 DI engine. I had to add my own modified x3 catch cans, a water/meth system that is more for addition power building and a resent experiment water vapor bottle I built that is not only keeping the intake manifold clean but also the intake vales and I have increased my average MPG slightly.

Here is the inherent problem with studies.... they dont really work well in the real world with so many viable. You could not possibly configure in a study everything that could happen? So I admit I am like many at times and will add something in a bottle knowing that it won't harm anything but its also not likely to do anything either except change the color of my spark plugs and show up on an oil analysis? LOL

Oh and when I want to clean my fuel system like hoses, lines and injectors, pumps etc. internally speaking I just add a 1/2 gallon of z***** to the fuel and then fill the tank and in a couple days they are perfectly cleaned. :cool:
 
I use a bottle every year (or every other oil change) and I'm not sure it does anything and I acknowledge it's probably snake oil, but w/e. I used it once on my 2004 Maxima and it got rid of the check engine light. Been using it since.

I currently use Top Tier gas, regular, and I drive a hybrid so logically there's no reason to use it anymore. =/
 
I use a bottle every year (or every other oil change) and I'm not sure it does anything and I acknowledge it's probably snake oil, but w/e. I used it once on my 2004 Maxima and it got rid of the check engine light. Been using it since.

I currently use Top Tier gas, regular, and I drive a hybrid so logically there's no reason to use it anymore. =/
You should because you own a ECU controlled vehicle invest in at least an inexpensive OBDII Diagnostic tool to go directly into the Diagnostic connector of your vehicle. Next time you get a DTC(check engine light) you at least retrieve the DTC code fond out what it is. Then you can make statements like a fuel or oil additive cleared the DTC (check engine light). ;)
Otherwise *someone like me would go hmmmm... maybe it was an anomalous P300 and the act of cycling the engine several time reset the ECU turning off the check engine light? :p

*look at my signature I will give you a hint the blue letters.... :giggle:
 
I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed; nor the dullest. All I can say is this is like a hamster on a running wheel or as my 1919 born grandfather liked to say, "Clear as mud!'
 
Did the drivability issues go away? Other results?
Yes, over ~ 2 tankfuls. The stumble on initial acceleration and uneven idle went away on one boat and the stumble minimized, to normal, on the oldie, but that one is a big old v8 w/ a Quadrajet and always had a momentary pause if accelerated too quickly, even with a newly rebuilt carb and fresh ignition parts. Reminds me to be easy on the old girl ;)

Now I do not know if the Techron actually helped, as I suspect the issue was a fuel batch quality problem.
 
Explain, please. Fuel additives don’t continue working after they’re used up. They’re pretty much a one and done type product. If the fuel additive contains an UCL, it’s possible for the UCL characteristics to remain for a short period of time once the additive has been depleted. That is however, up for debate.

It sounds like you’re assuming the spark plug deposits are a sign that the additive is continuing to work, even after the addtivized fuel has been consumed. Those deposit/ashy deposits are just a side effect of the fuel system cleaner, they don’t continue cleaning while on the spark plug. I may have completely misunderstood what you were saying, if so then I apologize.

I believe the contention is that the some level of the additive will still be there because of the way the fuel is being topped off. So maybe it's at half the concentration after filling up after half the tank has been used, then at a quarter the concentration after doing that again.

Edit: OK - I see that it was addressed.
 
the better word is dilution.
And really there is no way after the additives in the fuel have diluted down to comparing the total capacity of the fuel tank or basically no longer in the fuel tank that they are continuing to do any kind of cleaning effect. That's not how they work.
As for the spark plugs and showing that something other then gasoline was used the signs will stay with the spark plugs for a while or a good afternoon drive of 100 miles or more highway cruising or unless the spark plugs are flashed cleaned while still in the engine with either water injection, a quick low RPM burst of Nitrous or something that is introduced via the engines vacuum not the fuel system like xylene or similar properties. I suppose if you wanted to get creative you could manipulate the ECU fooling it a bit by causing a deliberate lean condition which would super heat the combustion chambers and spark plugs and burn off anything remaining on the spark plugs. You would get one or DTC's thats for sure. LOL
 
thanks guys for all your inputs. There are some doubter which is normal myself being one by default. However there seems to be no negatives about the product

officially over here, only the super 99RON contains cleaner & upper cylinder lubricant but costs £1.51/liter:cry: (I kid you not)

TBH since my car needs 95RON and only does 32mp(uk)g, I cannot not justify the extra cost.
I am thinking of using one bottle in half full tank once in a while (ever 2 years maybe?). 300ml bottle to 30l petrol
the product we get here is Techron Concentrate Plus Fuel System Cleaner marketed by Texaco
 
thanks guys for all your inputs. There are some doubter which is normal myself being one by default. However there seems to be no negatives about the product

officially over here, only the super 99RON contains cleaner & upper cylinder lubricant but costs £1.51/liter:cry: (I kid you not)

TBH since my car needs 95RON and only does 32mp(uk)g, I cannot not justify the extra cost.
I am thinking of using one bottle in half full tank once in a while (ever 2 years maybe?). 300ml bottle to 30l petrol
the product we get here is Techron Concentrate Plus Fuel System Cleaner marketed by Texaco

How about Archoil 6900 P-MAX. You add 1ml per litre and it contains PEA.

When my Wife had her Mondeo ST220 I used it religiously and I'm confident over a period of a time it made a noticeable improvment.
 
ZERO at least in my 2018 MAZDA 3 Skyactiv 2.5 DI engine. I had to add my own modified x3 catch cans, a water/meth system that is more for addition power building and a resent experiment water vapor bottle I built that is not only keeping the intake manifold clean but also the intake vales and I have increased my average MPG slightly.

Here is the inherent problem with studies.... they dont really work well in the real world with so many viable. You could not possibly configure in a study everything that could happen? So I admit I am like many at times and will add something in a bottle knowing that it won't harm anything but its also not likely to do anything either except change the color of my spark plugs and show up on an oil analysis? LOL

Oh and when I want to clean my fuel system like hoses, lines and injectors, pumps etc. internally speaking I just add a 1/2 gallon of z***** to the fuel and then fill the tank and in a couple days they are perfectly cleaned. :cool:
Question. How do you know the fuel system cleaner is working? Also your Mazda is DI, what are you going to benefit from the Fuel System cleaner?
 
I use a can of Techron in my two vehicles every 5k miles. The cost is under $5 per bottle. My Tundra is PI and the Lexus is PI/DI combo so if there's going to be a benefit they should both see it. Does it really do anything? No idea. Do I care at a total cost of $20/year? Nope....
 
You should because you own a ECU controlled vehicle invest in at least an inexpensive OBDII Diagnostic tool to go directly into the Diagnostic connector of your vehicle. Next time you get a DTC(check engine light) you at least retrieve the DTC code fond out what it is. Then you can make statements like a fuel or oil additive cleared the DTC (check engine light). ;)
Otherwise *someone like me would go hmmmm... maybe it was an anomalous P300 and the act of cycling the engine several time reset the ECU turning off the check engine light? :p

*look at my signature I will give you a hint the blue letters.... :giggle:
lmao. This took place like 10 years ago. My CEL went on and some guy was like "just run Techron through it" so I did and it went away. So now I have a superstitious belief that Techron does something. I also run a bottle of HEET after each winter season along with swapping my winter tires off because "omg there might be water from condensation inside" but IDK if that's even a thing.
 
lmao. This took place like 10 years ago. My CEL went on and some guy was like "just run Techron through it" so I did and it went away. So now I have a superstitious belief that Techron does something. I also run a bottle of HEET after each winter season along with swapping my winter tires off because "omg there might be water from condensation inside" but IDK if that's even a thing.

There hasn't really been a need for HEET since there's been oxygenated gasoline. HEET is going to be methanol with corrosion inhibitors or isopropyl alcohol if it's Iso-HEET.
 
There hasn't really been a need for HEET since there's been oxygenated gasoline. HEET is going to be methanol with corrosion inhibitors or isopropyl alcohol if it's Iso-HEET.
I think I'm going to skip the HEET this winter and just let my Techron do its thing.
 
I became a fan of Techron many years ago when it smoothed out the rough idle on a Ford Taurus 3.0 V6. Used it for while on other vehicles as preventative maintenance, but eventually got away from it.

Ran across this thread while trying to determine if Techron can be used in my old truck with a carburetor. The engine runs fine and I just rebuilt the carb, but the tank and fuel lines are 52 years old.

Seems like the jury here is out on whether Techron is even needed, considering the additives already in today's gasolines. I'm thinking that it's not a huge investment at $4.99 for 12oz at NAPA, and I may even add a bottle to my 2016 Mustang GT.

Have to add that I dealt with engineers at oil & gas companies for many years, and I seriously doubt Chevron (or any of the big companies) would blend and market snake oil.
 
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