Anyone use or have experience with a QuickJack?

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Feb 27, 2019
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I've been using rhino ramps for oil changes/brake bleeds and jack stands when doing tire swaps and brake changes. The QuickJack looks convenient for doing tire rotations and more complicated work.

My primary concern is safety. I think it's backed/designed by BendPak? But the item itself is made in China (which I'm not a fan of for such a component).

Also, I think their official slope rating is 3% which doesn't seem like much. Gonna have to measure my garage's floor but my manual car will roll back if I'm neutral.

Anyone have any experience with it? Does it lift at the pinch welds?
 
I have a set (7000ext) and have been trying to sell them without success.

In summary, there are not very useful due to their weight, setup time and the lack of height advantage compared to jack stands.

There is zero advantage from a safety standpoint.
 
On the opposite side I really like mine. I don't find them hard to set up but I leave them strategically placed on the floor.

They are heavy if you are going to move them a lot.
 
....There is zero advantage from a safety standpoint.
Curious why you say that? Does the model you own not have any safety locks? Or you're saying they are failure prone?

Home Depot had very good price (~$1100) on the BL-7000SLX awhile back, looked at them and was tempted. But I just couldn't/can't justify the ROI for my use.
 
I’ve had a Quickjack for a couple years. It’s far more secure than jack stands. I have used it on a fairly steep slope, and the car was secure. It’s held up a wide variety of cars, including F-150, various Mercedes, Volvo, a Sienna, and the Tundra. It served as the restoration platform for a 450SL for nearly a year.

It’s in my shop, and the only drawback is that it’s heavy when you slide it into position under the car.

It isn’t a lift, so you don’t get the height, but it is far better and safer than jack stands. I made some wood blocks for the higher frame of the Tundra, and if your car can be lifted by the pinch welds, then a set of polyurethane blocks with a deep groove would work. I used the actual jack points on the Mercedes and Volvos.
 
I’ve had a Quickjack for a couple years. It’s far more secure than jack stands. I have used it on a fairly steep slope, and the car was secure. It’s held up a wide variety of cars, including F-150, various Mercedes, Volvo, a Sienna, and the Tundra. It served as the restoration platform for a 450SL for nearly a year.

It’s in my shop, and the only drawback is that it’s heavy when you slide it into position under the car.

It isn’t a lift, so you don’t get the height, but it is far better and safer than jack stands. I made some wood blocks for the higher frame of the Tundra, and if your car can be lifted by the pinch welds, then a set of polyurethane blocks with a deep groove would work. I used the actual jack points on the Mercedes and Volvos.

Would you recommend the 7000SLX or the 5000SLX?

I can get the 7000 for the same price or cheaper than the 5000. But it seems that the 7000, while being heavier duty and able to lift more, is about 25lbs heavier on each frame (100 lbs each instead of 77) and also requires 3.5 inches of clearance as opposed to 3.

Looks like both have the same length.
 
I bought the one that fit my cars in length. The Volvos actually needed the length between lift points. It also had to comfortably lift 6,000# because the truck is 5,600.

I would measure the car you intend to lift.

The 3 vs 3.5” is relatively inconsequential. The lift clears all of the cars easily.
 
I have 2 sets. They are so much safer then jack stands and only take 10 minutes to set up. Unless I need to move them into the street. Then about 30 minutes. They are great for brake jobs and simple parts service. I am not sure I would do an engine or transmission swap with them.... lol
But even most suspension work for DIY in your garage is far better then with jack stands.



And here is in the street doing a tire rotation and detail cleaning of the undercarriage.
 

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Curious why you say that? Does the model you own not have any safety locks? Or you're saying they are failure prone?

Home Depot had very good price (~$1100) on the BL-7000SLX awhile back, looked at them and was tempted. But I just couldn't/can't justify the ROI for my use.
My model has safety locks, but I fail to see how this setup is superior to a jack stand.

I’ve had a Quickjack for a couple years. It’s far more secure than jack stands.
I use these jack stands:

Even when I was using less expensive jack stands, I never experienced any stability issues on flat surfaces.
 
I bought the one that fit my cars in length. The Volvos actually needed the length between lift points. It also had to comfortably lift 6,000# because the truck is 5,600.

I would measure the car you intend to lift.

The 3 vs 3.5” is relatively inconsequential. The lift clears all of the cars easily.

Turns out they're the same length, the 7000SLX has more capacity but is heavier and has slightly less clearance.
 
Turns out they're the same length, the 7000SLX has more capacity but is heavier and has slightly less clearance.
Get the EXT. The extra length comes in handy. My 7000ext barely fits on some vehicles, such as the current generation Camry.
 
My driveway slopes about five feet over a sixty foot run. Fairly steep slope. The cars are rock solid on a Quickjack. Jack stands were always dangerous in that environment.

I’ve since acquired a shop for all my work, no more driveway, but the safety of the Quickjack is several orders of magnitude better than jack stands.
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My driveway slopes about five feet over a sixty foot run. Fairly steep slope. The cars are rock solid on a Quickjack. Jack stands were always dangerous in that environment.

I’ve since acquired a shop for all my work, no more driveway, but the safety of the Quickjack is several orders of magnitude better than jack stands.
No offense intended, but neither product was designed to be used on less than perfectly level surfaces. Apparently there are some design features of the QuickJack that allow it to perform more favorably under these conditions, but IMO, that driveway does not sound like an area that is ideal for working on a vehicle.

Assuming a level surface, I stand by my position that the Quickjacks have zero advantage over a quality set of jack stands.
 
No offense intended, but neither product was designed to be used on less than perfectly level surfaces. Apparently there are some design features of the QuickJack that allow it to perform more favorably under these conditions, but IMO, that driveway does not sound like an area that is ideal for working on a vehicle.

Assuming a level surface, I stand by my position that the Quickjacks have zero advantage over a quality set of jack stands.

I disagree, there's something to be said for a system that both lifts and holds the vehicle at the same time, as opposed to lining up two jack stands on each end. There is also less risk of one end rolling while the other gets lifted.

If a slope isn't good enough for this type of jacking system, it's probably worse for jack stands.
 
I disagree, there's something to be said for a system that both lifts and holds the vehicle at the same time, as opposed to lining up two jack stands on each end. There is also less risk of one end rolling while the other gets lifted.

If a slope isn't good enough for this type of jacking system, it's probably worse for jack stands.
I think the rubber blocks and/or pads are the only reason why the QuickJack performs better under his scenario.

If you practice safe lifting practices, the chance of one end rolling is very unlikely.

Lifting and holding a vehicle at the same time is certainly a plus. But is it worth 4-6x the cost of jack stands? At one point I did, but not so sure anymore.
 
Raise your hands .....how many times have you all properly set up a good set of jack stands, then for added safety place a floor jack locked as a second insurance. I know that if you say never your lying through your teeth. There is always that one car that you look at and think do I really want to be under there with only jack stand holding it up.
Now with the Quick Jack in lock position I don't think anyone would give it a second thought to be working under a car with them.
 
No offense intended, but neither product was designed to be used on less than perfectly level surfaces. Apparently there are some design features of the QuickJack that allow it to perform more favorably under these conditions, but IMO, that driveway does not sound like an area that is ideal for working on a vehicle.

Assuming a level surface, I stand by my position that the Quickjacks have zero advantage over a quality set of jack stands.
Actually, part of my purchase decision on the quickjack was that the product description specifically allowed it to be used “up to XX slope” which happened to be the slope of my driveway.

Sure, level is better…and that’s how it is used now, but it can handle a slope safely.
 
I think the rubber blocks and/or pads are the only reason why the QuickJack performs better under his scenario.

If you practice safe lifting practices, the chance of one end rolling is very unlikely.

Lifting and holding a vehicle at the same time is certainly a plus. But is it worth 4-6x the cost of jack stands? At one point I did, but not so sure anymore.
There’s no comparison between the stability of a jack stand, with a 10” base, and that of a Quickjack, with a seven foot base.

Even on level ground, the Quickjack is many times more stable. You can’t tip over a Quickjack.

But as you raise the car, or lower it, the angle of the car, and the angle of the force of the jack, places side loads on a jack stand, and it’s a few degrees, only a few, from tipping over.

Even “safe lifting practices” don’t change the basic geometry of a jack stand, which has a narrow base, rendering them intrinsically dangerous.
 
There’s no comparison between the stability of a jack stand, with a 10” base, and that of a Quickjack, with a seven foot base.

Even on level ground, the Quickjack is many times more stable. You can’t tip over a Quickjack.
Unless you are using the SUV adapters, the vehicle is being supported by this:

1630347463173.jpg


The rubber has some amount of flexibility and IME, it is definitely not as "stable" as jack stands.

We may have to agree to disagree about the jack stand matter. I only lift up an entire axle at once; I never lift up each corner individually. For this reason, perhaps I cannot relate to your comment about side-loading a jack standing or any scenario where the jack stand can tip over?
 
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