Anyone familiar with Toyota VVT-i?

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My sisters Toyota Echo with the 1nzfe is throwing code P1349

VVT issue Bank 1.

Bank 1 is the intake side and bank 2 is the exhaust side, correct?

An internet search lead me to the VVT oil control valve, which I have tested with direct 12v and it opens and closes fine, and if the car is idling, forces the car to almost stall like it is supposed to according to the DIY test.

This code randomly appeared after changing her serpentine belt.

Also, another random symptom is the car randomly will hold RPMs while driving. (So I also checked the TPS with a multimeter and it checks out). But it will randomly hold RPM until you pump or press the brakes hard to alter vacuum.
 
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I wonder if the 1NZ-FE has the same type of rubber intake manifold gasket as the 3ZZ-FE I have? They tend to harden due to heat and age and cause an intake leak which messes up idle and can throw all sorts of engine codes.

I had this problem in the corolla and its an easy fix, from what I understand the VVT-i mechanism rarely goes bad.
 
Who changed the belt? The reason I ask is that it is quite common to break the controller when tightening up the belt via the alternator. It has to do with the placement of the controller in relation to the spot where most people want to use a lever to tighten the alternator. If someone else changed the belt they might have done this without realizing it.
 
Yeah I'm familiar. Fixed a few. Its usually insufficient oil flow to the vvt-i system. Usually a clogged screen in front of the OCV. Engine may have a buildup of deposits in the narrow vvt-i oil galleys. I've also seen it be old oil, clogged oil filter. Doubt the serp belt is related unless the OCV wiring was damaged during installation.

How many miles on the engine? When was the oil last changed? What do you use? what weight?
 
Bank 1 is the intake side and bank 2 is the exhaust side, correct?
No! The Bank refers to each side of a "V" engine(V6/V8). Your sisters Echo only has Bank 1.

On a "V" engine, Bank 1 would be one side of cylinders and Bank 2 would be the other side!
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Frbl
Who changed the belt? The reason I ask is that it is quite common to break the controller when tightening up the belt via the alternator. It has to do with the placement of the controller in relation to the spot where most people want to use a lever to tighten the alternator. If someone else changed the belt they might have done this without realizing it.

It was done at Midas...we probably got Midas touched.

I'll check the OCV filter and check back. The OCV works perfect with direct voltage...and the electrical connector looks brand new...all of this started after taking a perfect car to Midas.
 
Originally Posted By: Frbl
Who changed the belt? The reason I ask is that it is quite common to break the controller when tightening up the belt via the alternator. It has to do with the placement of the controller in relation to the spot where most people want to use a lever to tighten the alternator. If someone else changed the belt they might have done this without realizing it.


+1 happens frequently on yarisworld.com
 
Same thing, funny thing is in the FSM there's the following notice in the section for changing the accessory belt:

Quote:
NOTICE:
Do not insert the adjusting bar between the
camshaft timing oil control valve assembly and
generator assembly. It could damage the
camshaft timing oil control valve assembly.



Yarisworld is down right now, but here's a picture from Micro Image: http://www.microimageonline.com/forums/showthread.php/899-911-I-BROKE-IT!
 
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