Anyone else miss the regular old carbureted atv's?

[JWC86]

I read it's supposed to be on the fuel rail. I haven't bothered to remove that annoying plastic cover over the yet to look though. That's quite the setup you have there. It's got those crimp on clamps and everything.

You can get that style clamp on amazon cheap with the crimping pliers.

oteier clamps

 

[Zaedock]

My ‘21 Brute 750 has been rock
solid. My wife’s ‘03 Rancher (bought new) and my old built up 400EX have also been solid for over two decades.
In the cold, the EFI is hard to beat.

FWIW, during our trip to Hatfield McCoy this summer, the only machines that had issues (overheating due to 95*+) were our friends Polaris.

 

[The motor guy]

My ‘21 Brute 750 has been rock
solid. My wife’s ‘03 Rancher (bought new) and my old built up 400EX have also been solid for over two decades.
In the cold, the EFI is hard to beat.

FWIW, during our trip to Hatfield McCoy this summer, the only machines that had issues (overheating due to 95*+) were our friends Polaris.

Yeah, because polaris machines are junk.

 

[BrianF]

For my limited use, I am still quite happy with a carbed machine. Seeing as it now sits in a heated shop, starting is no issue. When it was stored in an unheated shed, I hated carbs. Nothing like pulling off the air box and heating the intake and carb with a heat gun in -30c trying to get it running.

 

[BrianF]

On a separate note, the simple Zenith-Bendix carbs on my 50+ year old snowmobiles run just fine. Mind you, they have a primer and will fire with limited drama down to -35c.... as that's as cold as I would handle going for a rip.

 

[The motor guy]

On a separate note, the simple Zenith-Bendix carbs on my 50+ year old snowmobiles run just fine. Mind you, they have a primer and will fire with limited drama down to -35c.... as that's as cold as I would handle going for a rip.

I started the side by side up today and it started first time with no throttle needed. Guess it just needs to be run more. Maybe the throttle plate is getting sticky

 

[supton]

I made the mistake of putting off a carb rebuild and wound up having to pull the carb off in the dead of winter. I rebuilt it wrong (one circlip in the wrong spot), ran like pooh until I got around to redoing it (and finding the one minor mistake). I don't recall it being so cold blooded but it sure is now.

On one hand, easy to rebuild. OTOH my cars haven't given grief in years with their EFI. Once or twice I've have to clean throttle valves but that's been it.

 

[The motor guy]

I made the mistake of putting off a carb rebuild and wound up having to pull the carb off in the dead of winter. I rebuilt it wrong (one circlip in the wrong spot), ran like pooh until I got around to redoing it (and finding the one minor mistake). I don't recall it being so cold blooded but it sure is now.

On one hand, easy to rebuild. OTOH my cars haven't given grief in years with their EFI. Once or twice I've have to clean throttle valves but that's been it.

That's usually only to hold the linkage on and that's on the outside typically.

 

[supton]

That's usually only to hold the linkage on and that's on the outside typically.

This was on the needle that moved with the slide valve. Would start just fine, but the first time I would get on it, the needle would go up as required—but then hang there, and then run stupid rich.

 

[The motor guy]

This was on the needle that moved with the slide valve. Would start just fine, but the first time I would get on it, the needle would go up as required—but then hang there, and then run stupid rich.

Yeah I suppose they're all a little different

 

[ccs368]

I think these fuel injected ones are too complicated. Detects one little misfire and it throws a check engine light, didn't even have a check engine light to be on with the carbureted engines back in the day. Like my pos polaris rzr. The thing as 180hrs on it and like 1600 miles, what could possibly be wrong with it and it always has a check engine light on for a misfire. Sounds like it's a computer issue that needs to be updated, but still. It shouldn't even happen. Now it doesn't even want to start when cold for some reason unless you're giving pressing the gas pedal down some and cranking at the same time. Then it runs kind of rough for the first 30 seconds or so and then fine after that as long as it doesn't cool back down again. Not really sure if it's like a dead cold only type of restart problem or what. My point is you wouldn't have this kind of issues with a carbureted engine. Just pull the choke and start it. Unless it sits up for 6 months and you let the carb get gunked up.

Miss carb engines? With my Suzuki ATV, HD Fatboy, power washer, weed trimmer, chain saw…you still need to be somewhat well versed in old school carb technology if you want to invest in time as a DIY. With winter and snowplowing season, my Vinson starts right up and within a minute, I’m plowing. FI is indeed the wave of modern technology however, I am ok continuing to use carb equipment knowing the idiosyncrasies that go along with it.