Looking for possible choices for automotive use. Used is ok and preferably under $500. And probably not the type that plugs into a phone. Been chasing a random battery drain, so a thermal view of the fuse boxes and modules might be helpful.
Not much luck doing that as pulling one fuse may wake up a module and you see 300ma.I dont think
Except with multiple CAN networks that send signals all over, that can be just as bad as pulling fuses. Already tried that and gave up after checking the first 10 fuses and finding 8 of them flowing current.Look at You Tube video for doing a voltage drop test on fuses. No need to pull the fuses out!
Is that showing a hot pipe?In some cameras you can adjust the contrast, I have one that takes pictures just like this!!!
It is a phone attachment do.
If the car has these many Can networks you going to need a good wiring diagram and a scope to find the culprit. Check this video!Except with multiple CAN networks that send signals all over, that can be just as bad as pulling fuses. Already tried that and gave up after checking the first 10 fuses and finding 8 of them flowing current.
If the car has these many Can networks you going to need a good wiring diagram and a scope to find the culprit. Check this video!
If the car has these many Can networks you going to need a good wiring diagram and a scope to find the culprit. Check this video!
The milliwatts of heat might register on a good IR camera, but if that heat source is not direcyly visible to the camera, but instead hidden behind stuff, that will make it a much harder heat source to detect, because much less IR will be radiating past what it is hidden by.I have a Fluke infrared, and there is no way to pick up a milliamp draw with the next to nothing heat it would produce. A clamp-on DC amp meter would be much better, or even a test light.