I use the 5/16 model on my 2001 Volvo and have been happy with everything so far. Its a bear to get in the tight engine bay (hardly any room between oil cooler and transmission), but provides plenty of peace of mind for a transmission without a dedicated filter. I also find them to be well built and very sturdy.
Anybody try Magnefine tranny filter?
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Originally Posted By: Christian_89LSC_96XJR
Originally Posted By: JakeR22
Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
I picked up a couple of the 1/2" in-out Magnefine filters at RockAuto for something like $2.00 each. Amazing price for a terrific filter. I've seen one cut open and it looked like a comprehensive solution for my transmission issues. A good filter screen, 5psi bypass, and a magnetized end to pick up ferrous particles. Overall, extremely satisfied so far.
Mine was made in Australia too. Nothing at all is a compromise with this filter.
Can those still be found at that price? What part #?
20FLT3 $2.34 + shipping
You must have a big truck to use 1/2" line. My Jeep and Camry both took 3/8". A distributor for Magnefine is our sponsor and you can email him your vehicles and he will tell you what sizes you need. But then I would feel guilty if I did not buy from him.
I ran a test 2 years ago on my Camry at around 180K. The UOA of my Camry running Amsoil ATF was flagged for high aluminum. I talked to our Magnefine sponsor about my test and he provided me a Magnefine at no cost. I ran between 10K and 15K miles and did another UOA. Still the UOA was flagged with high aluminum.
My conclusion was that I still think the Magnefine is a great filter it does have its limitations being a 30 micron filter. I assume the aluminum in my ATF was large enough to be picked by a UOA, but under 30 microns. I assume Magnefine choose 30 micron for a reason. If I had lots of room I might have installed one of those big screw-on basess with a spin-on filter. I believe they have a better micron rating than 30.
Originally Posted By: JakeR22
Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
I picked up a couple of the 1/2" in-out Magnefine filters at RockAuto for something like $2.00 each. Amazing price for a terrific filter. I've seen one cut open and it looked like a comprehensive solution for my transmission issues. A good filter screen, 5psi bypass, and a magnetized end to pick up ferrous particles. Overall, extremely satisfied so far.
Mine was made in Australia too. Nothing at all is a compromise with this filter.
Can those still be found at that price? What part #?
20FLT3 $2.34 + shipping
You must have a big truck to use 1/2" line. My Jeep and Camry both took 3/8". A distributor for Magnefine is our sponsor and you can email him your vehicles and he will tell you what sizes you need. But then I would feel guilty if I did not buy from him.
I ran a test 2 years ago on my Camry at around 180K. The UOA of my Camry running Amsoil ATF was flagged for high aluminum. I talked to our Magnefine sponsor about my test and he provided me a Magnefine at no cost. I ran between 10K and 15K miles and did another UOA. Still the UOA was flagged with high aluminum.
My conclusion was that I still think the Magnefine is a great filter it does have its limitations being a 30 micron filter. I assume the aluminum in my ATF was large enough to be picked by a UOA, but under 30 microns. I assume Magnefine choose 30 micron for a reason. If I had lots of room I might have installed one of those big screw-on basess with a spin-on filter. I believe they have a better micron rating than 30.
Originally Posted By: Donald
You must have a big truck to use 1/2" line. My Jeep and Camry both took 3/8".
LOL - in my case it's the Jaguar XJR - it uses 1/2" (or more correctly 12 mm) hoses for the power steering. However, the 4L80E transmission uses 3/8" hoses...
All my other cars use 3/8" for transmission and power steering.
You must have a big truck to use 1/2" line. My Jeep and Camry both took 3/8".
LOL - in my case it's the Jaguar XJR - it uses 1/2" (or more correctly 12 mm) hoses for the power steering. However, the 4L80E transmission uses 3/8" hoses...
All my other cars use 3/8" for transmission and power steering.
Originally Posted By: Donald
I ran a test 2 years ago on my Camry at around 180K. The UOA of my Camry running Amsoil ATF was flagged for high aluminum. I talked to our Magnefine sponsor about my test and he provided me a Magnefine at no cost. I ran between 10K and 15K miles and did another UOA. Still the UOA was flagged with high aluminum.
Donald: Just want to remind you again that to properly test filtration effectiveness, you need to have a particle count test done. A UOA won't do it.
I ran a test 2 years ago on my Camry at around 180K. The UOA of my Camry running Amsoil ATF was flagged for high aluminum. I talked to our Magnefine sponsor about my test and he provided me a Magnefine at no cost. I ran between 10K and 15K miles and did another UOA. Still the UOA was flagged with high aluminum.
Donald: Just want to remind you again that to properly test filtration effectiveness, you need to have a particle count test done. A UOA won't do it.
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Originally Posted By: Donald
I ran a test 2 years ago on my Camry at around 180K. The UOA of my Camry running Amsoil ATF was flagged for high aluminum. I talked to our Magnefine sponsor about my test and he provided me a Magnefine at no cost. I ran between 10K and 15K miles and did another UOA. Still the UOA was flagged with high aluminum.
Donald: Just want to remind you again that to properly test filtration effectiveness, you need to have a particle count test done. A UOA won't do it.
Thanks, OAI said that also. But they charge an extra $75 for that. They put a slide of your oil under an electron microscope and look at the particle sizes. But I did not have unlimited funds to do this test. I did the best I could. They said the only people who they do particle counts for are companies with huge industrial gear boxes powering I have no idea but a lot more than my Camry.
Originally Posted By: Donald
I ran a test 2 years ago on my Camry at around 180K. The UOA of my Camry running Amsoil ATF was flagged for high aluminum. I talked to our Magnefine sponsor about my test and he provided me a Magnefine at no cost. I ran between 10K and 15K miles and did another UOA. Still the UOA was flagged with high aluminum.
Donald: Just want to remind you again that to properly test filtration effectiveness, you need to have a particle count test done. A UOA won't do it.
Thanks, OAI said that also. But they charge an extra $75 for that. They put a slide of your oil under an electron microscope and look at the particle sizes. But I did not have unlimited funds to do this test. I did the best I could. They said the only people who they do particle counts for are companies with huge industrial gear boxes powering I have no idea but a lot more than my Camry.
I used to order magnifine filters from another vendor. Last time I ordered them from the site sponsor and the price was about even with the non sponsor vendor.
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I used to order magnifine filters from another vendor. Last time I ordered them from the site sponsor and the price was about even with the non sponsor vendor.
The site sponsor seems to give you SS spiral clamps which you do not get if you buy via NAPA. Well not in my experience.
The site sponsor will also tell you the size before you order. Kind of important unless you want to waste time and money.
Given their cost and how long they last and what they do, if they cost $15 or $20 should not be a big deal. Your transmission costs what $2000 to $2500.
I used to order magnifine filters from another vendor. Last time I ordered them from the site sponsor and the price was about even with the non sponsor vendor.
The site sponsor seems to give you SS spiral clamps which you do not get if you buy via NAPA. Well not in my experience.
The site sponsor will also tell you the size before you order. Kind of important unless you want to waste time and money.
Given their cost and how long they last and what they do, if they cost $15 or $20 should not be a big deal. Your transmission costs what $2000 to $2500.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Thanks, OAI said that also. But they charge an extra $75 for that. They put a slide of your oil under an electron microscope and look at the particle sizes. But I did not have unlimited funds to do this test. I did the best I could. They said the only people who they do particle counts for are companies with huge industrial gear boxes powering I have no idea but a lot more than my Camry.
That the expensive way, Next up are the automatic particle counts and the pore method is a reasonably good indicator as well. Both of these are considerably less expensive than the manual count.
Thanks, OAI said that also. But they charge an extra $75 for that. They put a slide of your oil under an electron microscope and look at the particle sizes. But I did not have unlimited funds to do this test. I did the best I could. They said the only people who they do particle counts for are companies with huge industrial gear boxes powering I have no idea but a lot more than my Camry.
That the expensive way, Next up are the automatic particle counts and the pore method is a reasonably good indicator as well. Both of these are considerably less expensive than the manual count.
Jim - thanks for your post. But what am I to say to OAI when they have the only sample of my ATF. The rest was recycled.
As I said there is only so much I was willing to spend on this test. I already paid about $40 for the before and after test. By deduction I conclude that the aluminum particles in my ATF were between 10 and 30 microns. I am not sure whether they will damage the transmission. The transmission on an older Camry is bullet proof or so I hear. The torque converter is the only part where aluminum particles can come from.
As I said there is only so much I was willing to spend on this test. I already paid about $40 for the before and after test. By deduction I conclude that the aluminum particles in my ATF were between 10 and 30 microns. I am not sure whether they will damage the transmission. The transmission on an older Camry is bullet proof or so I hear. The torque converter is the only part where aluminum particles can come from.
I have a question regarding placement of the Magnefine filters:
I will be purchasing 3 Magnefine filters for my vehicles:
2007 Ford F-150
2000 Ford Taurus
1992 Honda Accord
All three have automatics. Based on this thread I am will call the sponsor to verify sizing, but all three will probably be 3/8".
The question that I have is how do I verify which is the fluid return line from the cooler back to the radiator. As someone pointed out in this thread; it is better to install the filter on the "return line back to the transmission". I think that I recall reading somewhere that most radiators will have the top fitting as the input and the lower fitting as the output back to the transmission. I think that this coincides with the fact that most radiators return at the top (hot fluid); and supply to the motor from the bottom (cold fluid). Can someone verify my hypothesis here? It would definitely help when I go to install on three different brands/makes of vehicles.
The F-150 should be pretty easy, as it has a factory trans cooler, and viewing the pics that Jim Allen provided helped. I am positive that the fluid travels from the transmission, to the top fitting of the radiator; then out of the radiator to the top fitting of the cooler; then out of the cooler back to the transmission.
Thanks,
Tony
I will be purchasing 3 Magnefine filters for my vehicles:
2007 Ford F-150
2000 Ford Taurus
1992 Honda Accord
All three have automatics. Based on this thread I am will call the sponsor to verify sizing, but all three will probably be 3/8".
The question that I have is how do I verify which is the fluid return line from the cooler back to the radiator. As someone pointed out in this thread; it is better to install the filter on the "return line back to the transmission". I think that I recall reading somewhere that most radiators will have the top fitting as the input and the lower fitting as the output back to the transmission. I think that this coincides with the fact that most radiators return at the top (hot fluid); and supply to the motor from the bottom (cold fluid). Can someone verify my hypothesis here? It would definitely help when I go to install on three different brands/makes of vehicles.
The F-150 should be pretty easy, as it has a factory trans cooler, and viewing the pics that Jim Allen provided helped. I am positive that the fluid travels from the transmission, to the top fitting of the radiator; then out of the radiator to the top fitting of the cooler; then out of the cooler back to the transmission.
Thanks,
Tony
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PSU -
Much easier way to figure it out. Disconnect one of your transmission lines running to the tranny cooler. Have someone turn your vehicle on for about 2 sec. If fluid comes out from the transmission side, this is your supply line. If the fluid comes out from the tranny cooler side, this is your return line.
Much easier way to figure it out. Disconnect one of your transmission lines running to the tranny cooler. Have someone turn your vehicle on for about 2 sec. If fluid comes out from the transmission side, this is your supply line. If the fluid comes out from the tranny cooler side, this is your return line.
My 98 Taurus had a piece of rubber section in the steel trans line that I just cut out to put the filter in. My Daughter has the same car but a 96 and it was a little different placement.
Both of them I was able to replace the stock power steering filter with the magnifine. It's just a little tight in the bracket. I assume your 2000 Taurus has the power steer filter as well.
I did notice that the site sponsor was including clamps that appeared to be better than the standard cheapo worm drive clamp.
Both of them I was able to replace the stock power steering filter with the magnifine. It's just a little tight in the bracket. I assume your 2000 Taurus has the power steer filter as well.
I did notice that the site sponsor was including clamps that appeared to be better than the standard cheapo worm drive clamp.
Drive for 10-15 minutes, feel the 2 hoses one will be cooler than the other. The cooler one is the return. The cooler should be cooling the ATF right? It was obvious in my Camry. But I cut the hose and used an empty water bottle to verify. After the install of the inlet line I again used an empty water bottle pushed over the outlet of the Magnefine. You need to be positive the Magnefine arrow points the right direction. After that button everything up and you are good to go for 30K or so miles. Check the ATF level you might have lost a cup of ATF during the install and for the install.
Now once installed the output of the Magnefine is a great place to attach a clear plastic line to do a cooler line flush.
If I had only 1 vehicle and was not quite sure of things, I might buy 2' of ATF rubber cooler line as insurance. With that you can always get back to factory routing if needed. Also some people can not splice into a hose they need extra line to position the Magnefine in a good spot.
Now once installed the output of the Magnefine is a great place to attach a clear plastic line to do a cooler line flush.
If I had only 1 vehicle and was not quite sure of things, I might buy 2' of ATF rubber cooler line as insurance. With that you can always get back to factory routing if needed. Also some people can not splice into a hose they need extra line to position the Magnefine in a good spot.
Originally Posted By: PSU_Engineer
I have a question regarding placement of the Magnefine filters:
I will be purchasing 3 Magnefine filters for my vehicles:
2007 Ford F-150
2000 Ford Taurus
1992 Honda Accord
All three have automatics. Based on this thread I am will call the sponsor to verify sizing, but all three will probably be 3/8".
The question that I have is how do I verify which is the fluid return line from the cooler back to the radiator. As someone pointed out in this thread; it is better to install the filter on the "return line back to the transmission". I think that I recall reading somewhere that most radiators will have the top fitting as the input and the lower fitting as the output back to the transmission. I think that this coincides with the fact that most radiators return at the top (hot fluid); and supply to the motor from the bottom (cold fluid). Can someone verify my hypothesis here? It would definitely help when I go to install on three different brands/makes of vehicles.
The F-150 should be pretty easy, as it has a factory trans cooler, and viewing the pics that Jim Allen provided helped. I am positive that the fluid travels from the transmission, to the top fitting of the radiator; then out of the radiator to the top fitting of the cooler; then out of the cooler back to the transmission.
Thanks,
Tony
RE Which Line to Install he Magnefine: If you were starting out with a brand new vehicle, you could put it pre-cooler. That prevents debris buildup in the cooler. For a "used" trans (defined by several sources as post-1500 miles), you want the unit post cooler because the buildup in the cooler has likely already started and you want to catch anything that may break loose later before it goes back to the trans.
Engineer Abe Khalil (one of the guys that literally wrote the book on trans contamination), suggests that if you can't get the filter on the pre-cooler line within 100 miles or so, just put it on the post-cooler line. He told me that his new cars go for a tranny fluid change and an inline filter basically right from the dealership. He's done enough testing to know that most of the debris comes from assembly and the first few miles of operation... some 75 percent of the total debris buildup generated by an automatic in a normal lifetime is from assembly (or rebuild) and break-in. A hard-used automatic may generate more wear debris later in life than the average pampered car.
Kahlil has commented that, in recent years, the domestic manufacturers have improved manufacturing processes significant and have reduced the amount of "built-in" debris. The import manufacturers, he reports, have generally been much better at that. He has consulted in a lot of factories and seen whats out there. Some of eh import factories assemble automatic in NASA-like clean rooms and have extensive cleaning equipment for the cases and parts.
I have a question regarding placement of the Magnefine filters:
I will be purchasing 3 Magnefine filters for my vehicles:
2007 Ford F-150
2000 Ford Taurus
1992 Honda Accord
All three have automatics. Based on this thread I am will call the sponsor to verify sizing, but all three will probably be 3/8".
The question that I have is how do I verify which is the fluid return line from the cooler back to the radiator. As someone pointed out in this thread; it is better to install the filter on the "return line back to the transmission". I think that I recall reading somewhere that most radiators will have the top fitting as the input and the lower fitting as the output back to the transmission. I think that this coincides with the fact that most radiators return at the top (hot fluid); and supply to the motor from the bottom (cold fluid). Can someone verify my hypothesis here? It would definitely help when I go to install on three different brands/makes of vehicles.
The F-150 should be pretty easy, as it has a factory trans cooler, and viewing the pics that Jim Allen provided helped. I am positive that the fluid travels from the transmission, to the top fitting of the radiator; then out of the radiator to the top fitting of the cooler; then out of the cooler back to the transmission.
Thanks,
Tony
RE Which Line to Install he Magnefine: If you were starting out with a brand new vehicle, you could put it pre-cooler. That prevents debris buildup in the cooler. For a "used" trans (defined by several sources as post-1500 miles), you want the unit post cooler because the buildup in the cooler has likely already started and you want to catch anything that may break loose later before it goes back to the trans.
Engineer Abe Khalil (one of the guys that literally wrote the book on trans contamination), suggests that if you can't get the filter on the pre-cooler line within 100 miles or so, just put it on the post-cooler line. He told me that his new cars go for a tranny fluid change and an inline filter basically right from the dealership. He's done enough testing to know that most of the debris comes from assembly and the first few miles of operation... some 75 percent of the total debris buildup generated by an automatic in a normal lifetime is from assembly (or rebuild) and break-in. A hard-used automatic may generate more wear debris later in life than the average pampered car.
Kahlil has commented that, in recent years, the domestic manufacturers have improved manufacturing processes significant and have reduced the amount of "built-in" debris. The import manufacturers, he reports, have generally been much better at that. He has consulted in a lot of factories and seen whats out there. Some of eh import factories assemble automatic in NASA-like clean rooms and have extensive cleaning equipment for the cases and parts.
Thanks everyone for the tech!
NYSteve and Donald: Thank you for that tips on verifing the direction of flow. Donald after I thought about it you are right that one of the lines would be colder than the other; I would have missed a simple check like this.
Oilboy: I'll have to check the Taurus to see if I can route the filter like this on the 2000.
Jim Allen: Thank you for the write up you did previously that got me thinking about putting one in my Ford. Unfortunately we are well past the "break-in" period. This kinda bites because there is a perfect spot in the line after the radiator and before the cooler that would be the perfect spot for the Magnefine. I wish I had a picture to show you but I am sure you looked at the same spot on your F-150.
Tony
NYSteve and Donald: Thank you for that tips on verifing the direction of flow. Donald after I thought about it you are right that one of the lines would be colder than the other; I would have missed a simple check like this.
Oilboy: I'll have to check the Taurus to see if I can route the filter like this on the 2000.
Jim Allen: Thank you for the write up you did previously that got me thinking about putting one in my Ford. Unfortunately we are well past the "break-in" period. This kinda bites because there is a perfect spot in the line after the radiator and before the cooler that would be the perfect spot for the Magnefine. I wish I had a picture to show you but I am sure you looked at the same spot on your F-150.
Tony
You might have to buy some extra cooler line to make the hoses a little longer installing the filter.
I did not care if it was before or after the cooler in the bigger scheme of things. My primary thought is get it on, and make it easy to install. Cutting metal tubing just to get it after the cooler is too much work for me.
Plus it adds another failure point.
I did not care if it was before or after the cooler in the bigger scheme of things. My primary thought is get it on, and make it easy to install. Cutting metal tubing just to get it after the cooler is too much work for me.
Plus it adds another failure point.
Jim-
Do you have any links to Abe's work, or maybe you could do a nice write-up for everyone as a separate post.
Thanks!
Do you have any links to Abe's work, or maybe you could do a nice write-up for everyone as a separate post.
Thanks!
Originally Posted By: NYSteve
Jim-
Do you have any links to Abe's work, or maybe you could do a nice write-up for everyone as a separate post.
Thanks!
You can find just about everything he and John Eleftherakis wrote on the topic at the SAE website. Each of the papers will cost $15-18 per paper to download. They are copyrighted, which is why I don't post them here. Yeah, you gotta pay to play.I think they are well worth the money if you thirst for knowledge. Go to the site and type in the the names "Eleftherakis and Khalil.: The following lik will take you to the search page there:
SAE Technical Papers
Also, look here:
Trans Filtration Article
Jim-
Do you have any links to Abe's work, or maybe you could do a nice write-up for everyone as a separate post.
Thanks!
You can find just about everything he and John Eleftherakis wrote on the topic at the SAE website. Each of the papers will cost $15-18 per paper to download. They are copyrighted, which is why I don't post them here. Yeah, you gotta pay to play.I think they are well worth the money if you thirst for knowledge. Go to the site and type in the the names "Eleftherakis and Khalil.: The following lik will take you to the search page there:
SAE Technical Papers
Also, look here:
Trans Filtration Article
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