Any suggestions on a slipping transmission?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 2, 2013
Messages
9
Location
AR, USA
The transmission of my 2002 mitsubishi galant has been slipping between 2 -3 gear for about two months and it seems to get worst. I have to take my foot off the gas pedal to avoid the big jerk. I took it to 4 transmission shops and all of them recommended a transmission rebuild ($1600 - $1800). It seems like what they did is to use a scanner to scan the code, drive the car around and determined that the a rebuild is needed.

I already tired 3x drain and refill with Diamond ATF SP3 and added two bottles of Lubegard red. The problem is still there and there is no way I can change the filter since it is a lifetime filter inside the transmission.

I did lots of research and it seems like lots of things can lead to a transmission slip. Any suggestions what I can do next before spending $1800? Thank you in advance for the time reading this post.
 
So sorry, but no band aid is going to work for you. It is now time to pay the hidden costs of ownership!
 
Last edited:
Which transmission is it? Is it the F4A51? I was dealing with an issue on a friend's 03 Santa Fe. That particular transmission was used on a lot of Mitsubishis, Hyundais and Dodges*.

My friend's had a lot of surging between 2 and 3. I tried SPIII and it helped, but it quickly came back.

ATF+3 or +4 (can't remember which) seemed to stop 90% of the surging. However, it caused it to bang into 3rd gear when coasting down hills and about 20% of upshifts from 2-3. I don't know if the fluid is that much different, or I switched out enough fluid to change how the transmission operates.

In all honesty, it's time for a new transmission.

His did it for about 20K and was still working when he traded it.


*The transmission did find its way into some cloud cars / sebrings.
 
Last edited:
Diamond-matic 4 speed transmissions are all very weak and don't last much longer than 80,000 miles. There really isn't a solution to that.

To prolong the life of a dying transmission, the only thing I know of is to use Lucas ATF additive.
 
If i were u i would try any and all available additives and pass us your feedback on how well they work!! Transmission additives.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
To prolong the life of a dying transmission, the only thing I know of is to use Lucas ATF additive.

I've read some testimonials on BITOG and elsewhere about Lucas staving off inevitable transmission failures. I'd say give it a try and use those few months (maybe even a few years?) to scrape together the dough for the rebuild.

Or ditch the Mitsubishi and get another car.
 
Yes, the transmission is F4A51. The car has 86500 miles on it. My plan for the next several months will be trying different ATF and additives. My combination are as follows:

Valvoline MaxLife ATF Dex/Merc + Lubegard Red.
Castrol IMV + Lubegard Red.
Castrol Transmax ATF+4 + Lubegard Red.
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF + Lubegard Red.

I'll do three drain and refill for each combination. Lucas will probably be my last solution.
 
I would call Lubegard but would highly consider replacing all transmission fluid with a top Dexron product and using Lubegard Black for converting the fluid to meet your highly friction modified requirements. If it works you saved alot of money if not spent just a little extra trying.
 
You're right, my car is at 86500 miles now. I'm surprised that I still have to deal with a failing transmission when I only use use Diamond ATF SP3 and have three drain and refill done every 30k miles. Lucas will be my final solution I think.
 
I'm planning to try the following.

Valvoline MaxLife ATF Dex/Merc + Lubegard Red.
Castrol IMV + Lubegard Red.
Castrol Transmax ATF+4 + Lubegard Red.
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF + Lubegard Red.
 
you are wasting money on fluid. Forget trying so many fluids and additives and put that money toward the rebuild.
 
Originally Posted By: hyprytn
Any suggestions?



Yes, the LG red is saving you the $100 tow fee to get it to the shop...drive it there and get it rebuilt.
 
Originally Posted By: mattd
you are wasting money on fluid. Forget trying so many fluids and additives and put that money toward the rebuild.


Agreed...
 
Originally Posted By: hyprytn
I'm planning to try the following.

Valvoline MaxLife ATF Dex/Merc + Lubegard Red.
Castrol IMV + Lubegard Red.
Castrol Transmax ATF+4 + Lubegard Red.
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF + Lubegard Red.


My '04 Nissan Altima 2.5 auto is slipping(shift flare) between 2nd & 3rd gear. I have used Castrol IMV and now MaxLife. Neither has changed the issue. I've been easy on the transmission to avoid the slippage(letting off the gas just prior to shifting) but, I want to drive the car the way it's supposed to be driven without modifing my driving. If I keep the car, I'll have the transmission rebuilt by a reputable shop with the longest warranty.
 
Originally Posted By: hyprytn
It seems like what they did is to use a scanner to scan the code, drive the car around and determined that the a rebuild is needed.


That's a typical transmission shop solution to every transmission problem. It's like they don't know how to repair a transmission, only replace it.


Originally Posted By: hyprytn
I already tired 3x drain and refill with Diamond ATF SP3 and added two bottles of Lubegard red. The problem is still there and there is no way I can change the filter since it is a lifetime filter inside the transmission.


More details on as to exactly why you can't change the filter please! I would change the filter and see if the transmission oil pressure can be slightly raised.

I have over 213,000 miles on my 1995 Ford Escorts automatic transmission.
 
Stop wasting money on snake oils and put it towards a rebuild.

Drive the car easy to try to extend what life it has left if your a bit short on funds right now.
 
LG red not going to help.

the transmission is failing. not enough line pressure or clutch material --- you need to get the thing to GRIP.

LG Red tries to meet spec for proper friction. you don't want that.

You want thicker fluid if it's low line pressure, to artificially raise the psi. Or you want a grippier fluid if the clutch doesn't have much material left in it.

Unless it's something like a binding solenoid, plugged valve, in which case fluid games probably just aren't going to help.

Slap an ATF +4 in there, or a universal fluid. See what it does. If it's TOO harsh, you went in the right direction and can dial it back some with LG Black, which will make it slip more. Add LG B in TINY amounts, or you'll be back where you started. by tiny I mean no more than a tsp at a time.

I've never used lucas, but if it thickens the ATF, I'd absolutely try it. In fact, I'd probably try it First, before getting rid of the old fluid.

Another trick is to add 1-2 tbsp of brake fluid. Swells seals that are shrinking and cracking. It will hang in there for a month or too, but after that the seals will likely melt and it will be DONE. This obviously only works if the problem is with internal seal failure.

Either way, don't go out buying whole new fills of boutique fluids. You will unlikely get more than 6 months from this unit, and possibly much less depending on how it is now.
 
Last edited:
While I don't know your transmission, I can relate my own experience with my car, '93 Ford Taurus GL with the AXOD transmission, 155,000. Car was slipping in first gear and "hesitating" between 3rd and 4th gears. Changed all fluid and filter - no change. Tried "Lucas" no change. Tried "Lubegard platinum" a little change, but not much. Tried "Lubegard Red," a little more change, but not much. Was advised here on Bitog that I might have varnish in my transmission innards. Added a 16 oz can of "Seafoam Trans Tune." (I chose that because it says no seal swellers and aside of slipping, my transmission was not leaking). Literally, within two miles of adding the "Seafoam Trans Tune, car started shifting perfectly and has done so ever since. It was also "jumping" into drive and reverse and the "jump" is now totally gone, when I put it in drive or reverse now, it engages very smoothly.

Not sure this would work in your transmission and I'm sure others will chime in, (and need to if I'm steering you in the wrong direction), but so far I am very happy with my results - I was quoted a rebuild price of 2,000 and money be a bit tight in these parts, so even if I get a year out of this deal, that will give me enough time to set some money aside for either a rebuild or a different ride.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom