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Any special treatment needed for stored outboard?
- Thread starter saaber1
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It sounds like you got lucky that the carb wasn't varnished. I say just run it hard and go from there.
BTW, Stabil now makes a product specifically for marine use. I'd use that the next time I stored it.
BTW, Stabil now makes a product specifically for marine use. I'd use that the next time I stored it.
Replace the lower unit lube. Buy it in a squeze tub, not a quart bottle, so you can squeze the tube when you have the tip in the lower hole, and when it is full it will come out the top hole. Put new gaskets on fill screws, and after you put them back, wipe them with a rag wet with alcohol to remove grease. Then put GE silicon on screws edges for an extra seal.
Remove the prop, look for fishing string wraped arond shaft and damage to lower seal if you find fishing string, check shear-pin for bending, and replace it if it is bent.
You allready replaced the water pump, and plug, or I would have suggested that also.
Put inline fuel filter(s) on it. If it has a built in tank put one on line from tank. Also put one on line that goes to external tank conection.
Inline fuel filters add a lot of relaibility because they stop any small piece of crud that would jam up the carb.
If you are going to store it longer you might squart a little Sta-Bil foaming spray oil in the plug hole, pull the rope a few times with a rag over plug hole, replace plug, lightly pull roap and stop on a compression stroke so the cylinder is closed.
Remove the prop, look for fishing string wraped arond shaft and damage to lower seal if you find fishing string, check shear-pin for bending, and replace it if it is bent.
You allready replaced the water pump, and plug, or I would have suggested that also.
Put inline fuel filter(s) on it. If it has a built in tank put one on line from tank. Also put one on line that goes to external tank conection.
Inline fuel filters add a lot of relaibility because they stop any small piece of crud that would jam up the carb.
If you are going to store it longer you might squart a little Sta-Bil foaming spray oil in the plug hole, pull the rope a few times with a rag over plug hole, replace plug, lightly pull roap and stop on a compression stroke so the cylinder is closed.
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I guess it sounds like the bases are covered for this engine because the guy I bought it from replaced the lower unit. He is a marine tech. I was just wondering if I should do some kind of piston soak or other special clean up method. I bought some redline 2 stroke racing oil which supposedly does help to clean but I wonder how much that will actually help on an old motor. Can't hurt I suppose.
I think he said he went through the carb. You guys are right on the money re: carb concerns. He said he went through about 12 carbs that were clogged in the last week or two. He said it is because of the detergents in the gas. He said I should always run it out of gas and then there will be no issues. Does that sound right to you guys? I don't know much about 2 strokes at all. He said #1 problem is carbs that have been sitting without running it out of gas first.
Another related Q, how much does it cost to rebuild these little outboards? What does it cost? Might be a fun winter project next winter but no need to dump money into it if it doesn't need it I guess. Compression is 128-130.
Thanks for the ideas. Tempted to rebuild this thing next year just to learn about them, unless it costs a lot.
I think he said he went through the carb. You guys are right on the money re: carb concerns. He said he went through about 12 carbs that were clogged in the last week or two. He said it is because of the detergents in the gas. He said I should always run it out of gas and then there will be no issues. Does that sound right to you guys? I don't know much about 2 strokes at all. He said #1 problem is carbs that have been sitting without running it out of gas first.
Another related Q, how much does it cost to rebuild these little outboards? What does it cost? Might be a fun winter project next winter but no need to dump money into it if it doesn't need it I guess. Compression is 128-130.
Thanks for the ideas. Tempted to rebuild this thing next year just to learn about them, unless it costs a lot.
Check it for inline fuel filters. If it does not have them put them on it.
When you use it remember the two of the most important things are fresh gas and clean spark plug. So carry spare pre-gapped plugs, wrench to change it, and sheer pin and tools to change it including a cotter pin if required.
When gas sets in hot weather (especially with sun shining on the tank it gets hotter) the light petroleum products leave it and go into the atmosphere. After a few weeks the gas can be so depleted of the lighter hydrocarbon molecules that if you remove the cap and take a whiff you do not notice the smell of gas. This is the type of gas that will get you stranded. I like gas that is so fresh that if I open the lid to the can on the front porch, some-one in the house complains within a few minutes. Then I know I have good gas.
Hobby shops that sell model airplanes and online stores like Tower Hobbies use to sell a one gallon gas container with a squeeze bulb that would siphon or supply depending on what end of the bulb was down or up. Those were great to empty out the on-board tank at the end of the day if you used it. I used that for a motor smaller than the one you have. At 15 HP you probably will just use an external tank. Try to store that tank in a cool place in-between uses so the gas will not go bad. Also, Sta-Bil marine would be a good idea.
When you use it remember the two of the most important things are fresh gas and clean spark plug. So carry spare pre-gapped plugs, wrench to change it, and sheer pin and tools to change it including a cotter pin if required.
When gas sets in hot weather (especially with sun shining on the tank it gets hotter) the light petroleum products leave it and go into the atmosphere. After a few weeks the gas can be so depleted of the lighter hydrocarbon molecules that if you remove the cap and take a whiff you do not notice the smell of gas. This is the type of gas that will get you stranded. I like gas that is so fresh that if I open the lid to the can on the front porch, some-one in the house complains within a few minutes. Then I know I have good gas.
Hobby shops that sell model airplanes and online stores like Tower Hobbies use to sell a one gallon gas container with a squeeze bulb that would siphon or supply depending on what end of the bulb was down or up. Those were great to empty out the on-board tank at the end of the day if you used it. I used that for a motor smaller than the one you have. At 15 HP you probably will just use an external tank. Try to store that tank in a cool place in-between uses so the gas will not go bad. Also, Sta-Bil marine would be a good idea.
The use of Sta-bil on any engine that's only run ocasionally is spot on.
You could run some MMO in with the gas.
Or some other carb cleaner; check with a 2 cycle mechanic if he has any recomendations.
IIRC, outboards since the late 70's have had separate oil pumps so no gas/oil mix.
You could run some MMO in with the gas.
Or some other carb cleaner; check with a 2 cycle mechanic if he has any recomendations.
IIRC, outboards since the late 70's have had separate oil pumps so no gas/oil mix.
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
IIRC, outboards since the late 70's have had separate oil pumps so no gas/oil mix.
I'm not sure I understand you here. About 70% of every outboard I've been looking at is a 2 stroke. Most all of those are late 80's to mid 90's engines.
A related Q. My 87ish 15hp Johnson says 100:1 next to where the fuel line connects. I thought these were all 50:1? I think 50:1 is safer.
Was the 100:1 mainly for marketing purposes to show they are more EPA friendly or maybe to reduce smoke. Isn't it better to run 50:1 on an old johnson/evinrude? I know some of the 2 stroke Yamaha's are 100:1.
IIRC, outboards since the late 70's have had separate oil pumps so no gas/oil mix.
I'm not sure I understand you here. About 70% of every outboard I've been looking at is a 2 stroke. Most all of those are late 80's to mid 90's engines.
A related Q. My 87ish 15hp Johnson says 100:1 next to where the fuel line connects. I thought these were all 50:1? I think 50:1 is safer.
Was the 100:1 mainly for marketing purposes to show they are more EPA friendly or maybe to reduce smoke. Isn't it better to run 50:1 on an old johnson/evinrude? I know some of the 2 stroke Yamaha's are 100:1.
Originally Posted By: saaber1
.
A related Q. My 87ish 15hp Johnson says 100:1 next to where the fuel line connects. I thought these were all 50:1? I think 50:1 is safer.
Was the 100:1 mainly for marketing purposes to show they are more EPA friendly or maybe to reduce smoke. Isn't it better to run 50:1 on an old johnson/evinrude? I know some of the 2 stroke Yamaha's are 100:1.
FOund the answer on iboats forum FAQ:
"POST-1964 JOHNSON/EVINRUDE/GALE - The official stance on 1964 and newer OMC engines is to run them 50:1 and it's a good rule of thumb to follow on the bigger motors. OMC also renegged on the late 1980s 100:1 recommendation on the smaller (4-35hp) motors, bumping them back to 50:1. I've found that the smaller (3, 4, 5, 6hp) motors from post 1964 up into the mid-1970s may appreciate a bit of extra oil as they still have some bronze sleeve bearings. I run 40:1 in my '72 4hp, as I have a pile of holed blocks, burned cranks and twisted rods that were run at 50:1."
So they may well have recommended 100:1 for EPA or marketing reasons but the safe bet (and to which they later returned) is 50:1.
This is yet another example of why we should not just take the manufacturer recommendation on authority. We should question it and see if they are saying to do what is best for the engine or what is best for marketing!
.
A related Q. My 87ish 15hp Johnson says 100:1 next to where the fuel line connects. I thought these were all 50:1? I think 50:1 is safer.
Was the 100:1 mainly for marketing purposes to show they are more EPA friendly or maybe to reduce smoke. Isn't it better to run 50:1 on an old johnson/evinrude? I know some of the 2 stroke Yamaha's are 100:1.
FOund the answer on iboats forum FAQ:
"POST-1964 JOHNSON/EVINRUDE/GALE - The official stance on 1964 and newer OMC engines is to run them 50:1 and it's a good rule of thumb to follow on the bigger motors. OMC also renegged on the late 1980s 100:1 recommendation on the smaller (4-35hp) motors, bumping them back to 50:1. I've found that the smaller (3, 4, 5, 6hp) motors from post 1964 up into the mid-1970s may appreciate a bit of extra oil as they still have some bronze sleeve bearings. I run 40:1 in my '72 4hp, as I have a pile of holed blocks, burned cranks and twisted rods that were run at 50:1."
So they may well have recommended 100:1 for EPA or marketing reasons but the safe bet (and to which they later returned) is 50:1.
This is yet another example of why we should not just take the manufacturer recommendation on authority. We should question it and see if they are saying to do what is best for the engine or what is best for marketing!
Some where along the way in the evolution of outboards they, at least the larger units, incorporated oil pumps and a separate oil tank.
Still 2 cycle but the 'mixing' was done automatically, usually at the carberator.
I was in the machining end of outboard production so the year they switched isn't fixed in my head.
Still 2 cycle but the 'mixing' was done automatically, usually at the carberator.
I was in the machining end of outboard production so the year they switched isn't fixed in my head.
Yes, I would just run 50:1!! Modern oils offer lots of protection without fouling the plugs at that level. You should run for years on the same plugs.... but a a pair of spares will fit easily into your tackle box.
Run the carburetor dry - just unsnap the fuel line - when putting the motor up for an extended time.
If you fail to do this and the carburetor becomes gummed up after a years storage.... the engine may run poorly, and need the choke left slightly on to remain running at all...
Experience shows that running a tank of gas through it often fixes the problem during your first fishing trip.
Overhauling it: Unless you fish every day..... lots of people run these for 30 years without an overhaul!
We run ours 4-5 days a week in a near commercial operation and have engines 10 years old. We finally blew a 1975 Evinrude 75 hp - 3 cyl on our clunker work boat...33 years old and a gobazillion hours of abuse by our show team. No idea what went wrong, but even those on shore could hear the evidence!!
Since you already have fresh lower unit oil, you are good to go!
Run the carburetor dry - just unsnap the fuel line - when putting the motor up for an extended time.
If you fail to do this and the carburetor becomes gummed up after a years storage.... the engine may run poorly, and need the choke left slightly on to remain running at all...
Experience shows that running a tank of gas through it often fixes the problem during your first fishing trip.
Overhauling it: Unless you fish every day..... lots of people run these for 30 years without an overhaul!
We run ours 4-5 days a week in a near commercial operation and have engines 10 years old. We finally blew a 1975 Evinrude 75 hp - 3 cyl on our clunker work boat...33 years old and a gobazillion hours of abuse by our show team. No idea what went wrong, but even those on shore could hear the evidence!!
Since you already have fresh lower unit oil, you are good to go!
Ethanol is wreaking havoc on older carbs. There are lots of boaters having issues with the new gasolines. Stabil makes a newer marine version that is dark blue compared to the regular sta-bil red. It helps eliminate any ethanol related damage. I use it in my PWC.
believe it or not my 65 hp johnson sat for 20 years and i got it running again with NO carb work. actually the only thing i had to do was replace h20 pump
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