Any recommended seal conditioners?

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Nov 18, 2018
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Maryland
Hello ladies & gents,

Long story short. Have a 1986 MB 560SL that was sitting for about 20 years. Got it running again, in great shape. Has a few small oil leaks, nothing catastrophic. I did replace many engine seals but not all, and some are leaking.

Are there any recommended conditioner additives? I am aware some of the HM oils have seal conditioners in them, but was wondering if there was any additive product.

Thanks,
Cyrus
 
Just keep changing the oil, do not try and rejuvenate 35 year old seals with additives. These seals are going to be brittle as a graham cracker, trying to soften them or swell them may end up causing them leak profusely putting you in a worse place than your now.
 
Try a bottle of ATP205 just to see if it helps, if it doesn't then you'll just have to replace more seals until you fix all leaks.
 
Try a bottle of ATP205 just to see if it helps, if it doesn't then you'll just have to replace more seals until you fix all leaks.
I was thinking along those lines... in time.

Start by baselining all fluids as new. A few OCIs on whatever, the. Consider changing to a HM oil. Maybe synthetic (I run syn in my Daimler OM603/616/617 engines without issues), since M1 10w-40 at least used to be ACEA A3. If all else fails try ATP205, but consider biting the bullet and saving for more seals...
 
ATP-205 is a solvent and the last thing I would subject seals of this age to. I would guess the rear main is one of the ones that didn't get changed? That is quite a job on this car so if it is not much more than a small leak I would live with it unless your into removing MB V8 engines or transmissions. JM2C
 
I have had good success with moderating leaks using ester oil as a base oil or additive in systems. Redline, Lubegard, etc.

Here is a brief answer of why that works (see Molakule's reply to the OP):

 
Just use HM oil and see if it helps. Give it a run with M1 10w40 HM full synthetic oil. If it doesn't work, then play with additives to your hearts content.

I would skip the "brake fluid" in a bottle engine seal stop leaks. I would never even consider using that ATP product often pushed on the web.

LM sells motor honey too??? Fancy name. Nothing special. Consider only using 1 bottle. No need to overdose the honey. Funny how many slander Lucas/STP and then this recommendations shows up.

You can get a little cleaning/seal conditioning by tossing in some ester.... add a bottle of Lubegard Biotech or Hyperlube Zincreplacementadditive. Another option is a run or 2 with Autorx.

 
Just use HM oil and see if it helps. Give it a run with M1 10w40 HM full synthetic oil. If it doesn't work, then play with additives to your hearts content.

I would skip the "brake fluid" in a bottle engine seal stop leaks. I would never even consider using that ATP product often pushed on the web.

LM sells motor honey too??? Fancy name. Nothing special. Consider only using 1 bottle. No need to overdose the honey. Funny how many slander Lucas/STP and then this recommendations shows up.

You can get a little cleaning/seal conditioning by tossing in some ester.... add a bottle of Lubegard Biotech or Hyperlube Zincreplacementadditive. Another option is a run or 2 with Autorx.

I recommended it and have never slandered anything here. LM says 2 bottles for that volume - why are folks here so scared of using products like this and just following the manufacturer's recommendations? I do agree a HM oil would also be a smart move.
 
I’ve certainly had good luck with at 205. My 69 Ford sat for a long time before I got it. Used to get a good couple puddles of engine and trans oil after it sat for a while between drives. It isn’t exactly bone dry now, but it made a huge difference. Just drops here and there.
 
why are folks here so scared of using products like this and just following the manufacturer's recommendations?
50 years of looking at blown and leaking oil seals and softened silicone FIP gaskets that were nothing more than a small amount of weeping and after whiz bang in a can turned into full blown leakers that required tearing the engine apart. That is why.
The stuff is garbage no matter the name on the can and has no place in a keeper, if its an old beater with three wheels in the bone yard who cares anyway.
 
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