Any paint problems on new cars etc?

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I think its time all paint manufactures integrate the various colors into the primers. The only regulated paint layer is the base coat, meaning it is on all new cars, since around the late 1980's to now. So yeah its a nice sandwiched layer of air dry water paint, that has horrible adhesion and UV resistant qualities. So a long lasting color coat of primer would be the way to go. :unsure: This is my Smokey Yunick moment. :ROFLMAO:
 
Keep your car clean and waxed or ceramic coated and I don’t think you are going to have any issues with excellent, modern paint. Your color coated primer is not going to help unless it has some clear in it. Not sure what regulated layer means.
Tell that to owners of white cars of various brands. Hyun/Kia and GM especially
 
White paint is the worst of them all. I've seen plenty of nissan/infinity, hyundai/kia, fords and chevy/gmc that only look 6-8 years old with chunks of white breaking off. Only the cadilacs are ok but the white paint they have isn't the same as the chevy gm work truck white. It's an optional pearl but it's durable. The white paint of before which i assume wasn't the low voc stuff of today never had this issue. Had 3 white vehicles and none had issue in the long time i owned them.
 
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The base coat is e-coat primer. The parts a dipped into the e coat tank. To do multiple colors would require separate tanks by color. Which is not very practical. That would require alot of space and money to setup.
 
I've always wondered why the new Ram 1500 trucks have had a rough finish for years now. The paint down the sides of the body is not smooth, and some trucks seem to be worse than others. I guess it is just a "characteristic" of what their Michigan plant produces.
 
The only paint issues I have ever personally had to deal with or was aware of was I at one time liked to purchase retired Police Crown Vics at auction and I recall a issue with huge sections of hood paint peeling off, The entire hood the paint would peel off with the primer still attached to the car. I don't remember exact year but I think sometime between 2006-2009 models and was limited to white cars

I had a 2014 Subaru WRX made in Japan and the paint was super thin! Would rock chip easy.

My first new car was a 1989 Mustang LX 5.0 in white. Had what I assume was acid rain damage from sitting on the dealers lot the day I purchased the car.
I was in the printing industry and used my scope to look at the paint and looked like the surface of the moon under magnification.
 
I have had good luck with the paint on my vehicles. My old Civic that I sold sat outside every day and my buddies old Pontiac G6 also sat outside. His paint on the hood and top was really faded out but mine looked great. His was an 09 and mine was a 2012. I ran mine through the automatic wash 4 times a week and he didn't wash his. Maybe that is what made the difference plus his was black and mine was urban titanic which is a dark metallic brown.
 
Recently, I had 2 white cars. The Honda is fine, the Ford will flake off if hit it with a garden hose. The Ford is gone.
 
White paint is the worst of them all. I've seen plenty of nissan/infinity, hyundai/kia, fords and chevy/gmc that only look 6-8 years old with chunks of white breaking off. Only the cadilacs are ok but the white paint they have isn't the same as the chevy gm work truck white. It's an optional pearl but it's durable. The white paint of before which i assume wasn't the low voc stuff of today never had this issue. Had 3 white vehicles and none had issue in the long time i owned them.
Both my white vehicles had small problems. Its the paint not the OEM. They went to low VOC paints and white was a problem for everyone, mostly because it requires a thicker film for full coverage and the low VOC makes adhesion worse.

Anything "Pearl" is no longer white - the pearl crystals make it cover better - so if thats an option its worth the upgrade price.
 
Some searches say there are 4 paints used.
1 Likely epoxy primer
2 Primer maybe for build up
3 Base coat or water paint that has the color and only air dry's its worse than using something like rustoleum.
4 Clear coat

All but number 3 are quality paints, so I say get rid of #3 and just use the primer with color. Just always searching for logical ways to get around stupidity. So yeah you would always want the clear coat to at least add the shine to it.
 
Both my white vehicles had small problems. Its the paint not the OEM. They went to low VOC paints and white was a problem for everyone, mostly because it requires a thicker film for full coverage and the low VOC makes adhesion worse.

Anything "Pearl" is no longer white - the pearl crystals make it cover better - so if thats an option its worth the upgrade price.
Hmm no low VOC jet engines though. And especially when dumping the juice to land. No one else had this thought process?
 
Some searches say there are 4 paints used.
1 Likely epoxy primer
2 Primer maybe for build up
3 Base coat or water paint that has the color and only air dry's its worse than using something like rustoleum.
4 Clear coat

All but number 3 are quality paints, so I say get rid of #3 and just use the primer with color. Just always searching for logical ways to get around stupidity. So yeah you would always want the clear coat to at least add the shine to it.
Thats not how paint works.

The base coat is primarily for rust protection. The primer coat is for smoothing the base metal out, and adhesion of the color coat.

The color coat - or what your calling the base coat, does neither of the two benefits above. Possibly they could color the primer, but given your now asking one chemical to do many things my guess it would do none of them well. OEM's are cheap. If they could cut out a step they would have long ago for cost saving.

The topcoat - what your calling a clear coat, is the protectant coat from all the things that would attack the 3 below it - UV, etc. OEM's went to base / clear primarily again to lower VOC's. They had to stop using the chemically nasty enamels of days of old. There were additional benefits as well - like didn't fade, etc - but of course OEM's are cheap and don't much care about your 10 year old car.

If you can find a way to skip a step you will be wealthy beyond imagine.
 
Thats not how paint works.

The base coat is primarily for rust protection. The primer coat is for smoothing the base metal out, and adhesion of the color coat.

The color coat - or what your calling the base coat,
Okay learn something new here. Do the lousy search. Base coat is the color. Hello! Rust protection would be an epoxy primer.

 
Paint systems vary plant to plant, and manufacturer to manufacturer. Can't generalize. And OEM paint is different from aftermarket repair paint.

I spent some years in an auto plant environment, and the paint system where I worked changed from Dupont to PPG, and the paint was totally different, and not for EPA reasons. One of the paint systems required high heat to cross-link, and the other did not. Again, different.

My memory is failing me, so I can't remember all the details, but I do remember that the first coating was a dip into the E-coat tank (gray). Next, a color matched primer. This was not high build, just a splash of color, and base layer for the color to be added next. Then the base coat of color was added. The hood, doors, hatch, were in place, to assure the color texture was consistent, and the metallic laid down the same, panel to panel. Last, clear.
 
If theres a way to do it cheaper and faster GM will find it. 10's of millions of dollars and all we get out of Flint is primarily black, white and gray along with a few other that require expensive option packages in order to get.
 
I am told that the reason for so many Black, white and gray trucks is that they can "batch" paint a run of trucks and these are the easiest colors. Funny how 30-40 yrs ago you could get a dozen colors along with the two tone versions with that technology but somehow its not practical with 10's if not ( 100's) of millions in new equipment.
 
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