Any need to be pefectly level when replacing MTF?

[OilyBear]

I have a 2000 V6 Mustang with the 5 speed manual tranny. The car is at 105,000 miles and I have never changed the manual transmission fluid. The car does not shift as smoothly as it did, say, 30,000 miles ago. Last winter, for the first time, it shudders in the morning during shifts. It is my understanding from my personal mechanic that the clutch and mechanics are fine. The current fluid looks black and somewhat silvery. I am assuming a fluid change would be in order.

I have considered using Royal Purple Synchromesh or Pennzoil Synchromesh as other Mustang users have had good experiences with them in their standards. However, this is not what Ford specifies so I will likely go with the recommended ATF, likely Mobil 1 synthetic ATF or some other high end synthetic. Any opinions on this?

All this leads to one question though. I only have ramps and currently am not going to buy a jack and jack stands unless I absolutely have to. I will likely get some a little later, but I am waiting to see if I get more into my own car maintenance as I have done only oil and coolant changes so far. So, is it okay to pull the fill plug and drain plug on my Ford manual transmission and replace the drain plug and fill with new fluid to the bottom of the fill hole, as specified, with the car tilted on the ramps?

 

[AdRock]

As long as you fill it with the correct amount specified in the manual it doesn't need to be level.

Stay away from the SynchroMESH. Tremec has said not to use it in their trannies. However, SynchroMAX is ok to use.

There was a thread on Stangnet about the TR3650 tranny that I have and the a Tremec engineer came in and stated that SynchroMESH didn't play well with the synchros, but that SynchroMAX was ok. I know you don't have the 3650 in yours but I'd still stay away from the MESH.

 

[unDummy]

Shudders??? manual tranny?

It needs to be on a level surface to get an accurate level.

RP Synchromax is a good choice. Many synth ATFs are now multivehicle/universal which might not be optimal for shift quality.

 

[AdRock]

It doesn't HAVE to be level to get the proper amount in the trans.

If the trans is a T45 it takes 2.33 quarts
If it's a T5 then it takes 2.74 quarts.
http://www.brothersperformance.com/help/40/Fluid+Capacities+-+Firing+Order+&+General+Info.html

So as long as that's the amount put in, the angle of the vehicle doesn't matter.

I've used Mobil1 ATF for a good while now and have been very happy with it.

 

[OilyBear]

When I say shudder I mean that I almost completely pull the clutch pedal out and it kindof shakes into engagement, not smooth. Once warm it doesn't do this at all. But the shift gate feels notchier than it used to.

The manual specifies the 2.74 quarts. So I suppose I just remove the fill plug first, making sure I can get it off. Then remove the drain plug. Climb out from under the car, walk away and open a beverage. Get back under, clean the drain plug, put it back in, then...

I have several options for filling. Some stang owners say its best to remove the shifter boot and run a hose in this way. Why? I have also heard of just using a manual pump that screws onto the cap. I would prefer to just use the pump and a hose and just take the bottle out from under the vehicle and let gravity do the work. Any problem with this? Bubbles an issue? Air pockets?

I see now, its RP SynchroMAX, I think I will use this based on the good T5 owners reviews. I think I will just fill it measured out to the proper quarts minus a few ounces for the leftover fluid that I couldn't drain. Good idea?

 

[AdRock]

If it's a few ounces over it won't hurt anything. I usually just pull the shifter and fill through the top of the tranny. But pulling to boot off and running a tube down to the fill hole will work fine. Don't worry about any bubbles. It couldn't get faomy anough to hurt anything from just filling it up.

 

[Epic_]

Shuddering is a clutch mechanical/wear issue.

 

[OilyBear]

Epic, how come this only happens on cold mornings? Now, during the summer it does not shudder at all. But, sure enough, when it gets cold it starts doing it again. I think if it was wearing out it would do it all the time and get worse quicker than it is. Right?

 

[AdRock]

I agree. The shuddering is a mechanical issue.

It could be a few different things though. It depends on exactly WHEN it shudders.

A light shudder while moving the shifter into a gear while he vehicle is moving could be the synchros in the transmission caused by the old fluid.

If it shudders while engaging the clutch it could be the clutch disc wearing out or it could be contaminated with something.

One other thing. The mustangs have a pretty cheap clutch quadrant that can start flexing when it gets old. This can cause the clutch to not disengage completely causing a slight shuddering and hard shifts.

Also, the clutch cable itself. They'll stretch over time and can cause the same issues as a failing quadrant.


Since the tranny has 105k on it with no fluid change, I'd just change it with some regular ATF. Then change it again about 2 weeks after that with the good stuff. This will help ensure you get a good flush on the trans.

 

[Eddie]

Or; you could buy your own prefered Tranny fluid and take it to an independent shop. Put it on the rack, drain it and put in the correct amount.

 

[mechtech2]

You may not get the specified amount of fluid in when on ramps.
Or, it may take it.
Maybe you could ramp the front and rear of one side of the car [fill plug side].
All the fluid would surely fit then.
I would upgrade from lame ATF to a real dedicated manual trans lube. If Pennzoil Synchromesh is not suitable, there are others.

But that shudder is not because of the trans. It is the clutch or motor /trans mounts.

 

[Epic_]

The clutch may shudder when cool due to a small amount of warpage that is not present when the clutch is heated. Remember that when the clutch is being slipped (When taking off from a start and, depending on your style, possibly during shifts) lots of heat is generated. Flywheels often display bluing on the friction face due to the heat these parts experience. The transmission bell housing is also a very warm place due to the heat generated in the transmission and heat radiated from the engine.

I recently replaced the aftermarket clutch in my MR2. It always shuddered unless it was abused (Drag launches to get it very hot) or I went for a very long drive (100+ miles, for example.)

A clutch that shudders lightly is nothing to worry about. It will fail prematurely but nothing really significant.

 

[JohnBrowning]

No not perfectly level. You should be close to level to take an accurate reading but as long as yo are not upside and gravity is working you can be at almost any reasonable angle and still refill the MTF!

Most people take their reading after they have let the vehicle down off the jack stands if you only have one end jacked up. Most MTF's you simply refill until the fluid starts to come out the fill hole and then you stop stick a finger in the whole to make sure it is comeing out because you are at the top and not from splash etc....Then you put the plug back in. On models with a dip stick you put in the reguired amount or the amount you drained out. You then lower the vechile and check at the dipstick. If it is a little low you need a funnel to add what it is needed through the dipstick opening. It just depends ont he MT?