This thread makes me wonder if the days of rebuilt engines are over.
Any good crate engine rebuilders?
- Thread starter OM617YOTA
- Start date
maybe not your application but Blue Print Engines is very popular in the hot rod world. There are others like Smeding and PM in NC that are focused more on performance applications, but they might custom build if you give them a call.
https://blueprintengines.com/
https://blueprintengines.com/
x2 for Blueprintengines
x500 for Blueprint engines. Maybe not the cheapest option and they are generally geared more for performance but they do have "stock" style replacements.
Rebuilding is still a good option though. Is your old engine just worn out or was there damage? A bore, hone, cleanup with some new pistons, rings and bearings is still a viable option. Probably your cheapest option but you have to trust your rebuilder.
Rebuilding is still a good option though. Is your old engine just worn out or was there damage? A bore, hone, cleanup with some new pistons, rings and bearings is still a viable option. Probably your cheapest option but you have to trust your rebuilder.
This looks like a very valid option.
Engine had an intermittent tap or gentle knock when cold, went away when warmed up. Confirmed not exhaust leak by fixing existing exhaust leak and screwdriver-as-stethosocope method on the block. Thought it was piston slap, not great but not immediately game over. After this past oil change it was lots worse and there was gray schmoo on the magnetic drain plug - aluminum piston material wouldn't stick to the magnetic drain plug. Still runs and drives fine but days are very numbered. I drive the truck less than 2k miles/yr, thought I had some time.
Still collecting info. Current order of preference is:
1. Local well regarded engine builder, there are a couple nearby
2. Rebuild myself
3. Distant third, good used engine. Lots of stars would have to align to make this make sense. Significantly lower miles than my current engine, good enough price to be worth the risk + common piston slap problem these engines have, etc
4. Astronomically more distant fourth, Edison motors kit
Local builder or doing it myself will give an opportunity for some mild performance improvements too. RV cam, gasket match ports, that kind of thing. Unlikely to spring for new heads.
Thanks folks, appreciate the help.
With all the mentioned outfits especially that Dave in utah. Please do a massive search for reviews, you will find they are not good.
People that talk are not doer's. They are talkers. Most all shops that do any form of re manufacturing of engines or transmissions usually have high employee turn overs and that means lots of new ones learning on your dime so to say. I'd start the search for reviews then check and see if they are advertising for assembly people. That will help tell the story. Unhappy employees usually don't do good work.
People that talk are not doer's. They are talkers. Most all shops that do any form of re manufacturing of engines or transmissions usually have high employee turn overs and that means lots of new ones learning on your dime so to say. I'd start the search for reviews then check and see if they are advertising for assembly people. That will help tell the story. Unhappy employees usually don't do good work.
Get a crate engine 
You can get another 454 like you already have, or a modern 5.3 or 6.0 or a bunch of other options
You can get another 454 like you already have, or a modern 5.3 or 6.0 or a bunch of other options
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
There are a host of places you can look to buy Chevy crate engines from. When I was still fooling with the Chevelles, GM had several places that offered them in all stages of build. Anything one could possibly need. From single parts to assembled minus the carbs and distributors & belts. One could also go for all the way total assembled with carbs, belts and distributor called the Turn Key crates. I think those are now under the names : Chevy Performance + GM Performance & Bowtie. Bowtie is one that specializes in several years. From older to modern / recent made engines.
Blue Print is one of the most popular with the best reputation BUT the highest prices. -----------------------------------------------------
The top 5 rated these days are #1 Blue Print #2 Summit Racing/Street #3 Texas Speed #4 Bowtie and #5 JEG's. Also a place I heard of not too long ago called Speedway Motors if the others are too costly you could check out. Thing is the prices can vary wildly from place to place. There was a really popular one I knew people used that offered even more than those listed above. I will have to look to see if I can find the info on them in my Man Cave. I just recently threw out the last catalog they sent me and the name escapes me right now.
Like I've been reading, very few good local engine rebuilder's anymore. Used to be all over the place in NY back in the 80's & 90's. No more. All gone. Now if I needed an engine, it would be scrapyard OEM. They have engine " tiers" now. Lowest mileage, the higher the price, but still way cheaper than a Jasper POS, even for the top tier ones. Scrapyards have gotten savvy the way they do business now. Back in the day, there was just a shelf of the same engine, no mileage. You would have to do you're own investigation on a particular engine. Scrapyards are even giving 1 year warranties now, depending which tier you pick. 6 months for a lower tier. 1 month for the lowest tier.
Get a crate engine
You can get another 454 like you already have, or a modern 5.3 or 6.0 or a bunch of other options
The cylinder heads will not work with a L29 Intake.
There are a host of places you can look to buy Chevy crate engines from. When I was still fooling with the Chevelles, GM had several places that offered them in all stages of build. Anything one could possibly need. From single parts to assembled minus the carbs and distributors & belts. One could also go for all the way total assembled with carbs, belts and distributor called the Turn Key crates. I think those are now under the names : Chevy Performance + GM Performance & Bowtie. Bowtie is one that specializes in several years. From older to modern / recent made engines.
Blue Print is one of the most popular with the best reputation BUT the highest prices. -----------------------------------------------------
The top 5 rated these days are #1 Blue Print #2 Summit Racing/Street #3 Texas Speed #4 Bowtie and #5 JEG's. Also a place I heard of not too long ago called Speedway Motors if the others are too costly you could check out. Thing is the prices can vary wildly from place to place. There was a really popular one I knew people used that offered even more than those listed above. I will have to look to see if I can find the info on them in my Man Cave. I just recently threw out the last catalog they sent me and the name escapes me right now.
Chevrolet Performance is the only one backed by a manufacturer.
Blueprint started out as a rebuilder, Now they're having blocks, cranks & cylinder heads cast for them. Very popular among the old school muscle car crowd & builds a decent engine. Not sure they would mess with a L29 build?
Texas Speed specializes in LSx/LTx & late Hemi engines. They're bread & butter is selling engine parts but does CNC their own camshafts (Run a TSP cam in my '19 Yukon XL)
Their machine shop/engine assembly isn't designed to take in random stock engine builds.
Summit, Jegs, & Speedway parts/engines are all rebranded.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
Yes, one really needs to do a lot of checking around to see who is offering what these days. If I had the money I would look to Edelbrock who makes very good quality engines of all sorts and does in fact offer several L29 builds today for fair prices. Actually been kinda shocked by their really good prices right now. They had been know for being more expensive than most not so very long ago.
I am willing to bet sales are way down for many. Some may have to shutdown down if business slows much more
.
I been thinking of this for a while now. In the economic mess we have these days with low job numbers plus inflation offering no relief in sight, that even this industry sales have likely dropped off so much some can not even survive much longer unless things change.
A few popular companies I was aware of just a few years ago, I can not even find anymore. They may have already thrown in the towel and are now history. But I am sure anyone needing a crate right now can find any version what so ever they desire if they have the cash.
Theres a very large engine maker that builds new engines, called, Blueprint Engines. I dont know what engines they make, or their prices. But from there yt videos, it is a high quality engine building company. I think they also will rebuild an engine if you ship them one. The yt video emphasized engines for high performance cars like race cars. Give them a call.
Alrighty, putting this one to bed for now.
1.) There's a well regarded engine builder not far away who will rebuild my engine, gasket match the ports, and use a better cam, for $3500. Obviously they can't give me exact numbers without getting into the engine, so I'll budget $5k+ going that route.
2.) Doing more research and diagnostics, it sounds like I have piston slap, not a rod or main knock. These engines are known for that, the knock goes away when warm(which is when a rod/main knock would get worse), and isn't dependent on oil pressure. Lots of reports of people driving engines in this condition for hundreds of thousands of miles without issue. Obviously not ideal but not instant death either. I drive this truck 2k miles/yr. Seems like I have time to sort this one out.
2.5) Going to try a filter with a better anti drainback valve and see if that helps. Using AC Delco now. Unlikely, but very little to lose.
3.) Probably going to do an 0411 PCM swap, injectors, and tune. Get that ironed out on this old clunker, then have it rebuilt and only have to retune for the porting and new cam on the new engine. Long way in the future.
Fingers crossed.
1.) There's a well regarded engine builder not far away who will rebuild my engine, gasket match the ports, and use a better cam, for $3500. Obviously they can't give me exact numbers without getting into the engine, so I'll budget $5k+ going that route.
2.) Doing more research and diagnostics, it sounds like I have piston slap, not a rod or main knock. These engines are known for that, the knock goes away when warm(which is when a rod/main knock would get worse), and isn't dependent on oil pressure. Lots of reports of people driving engines in this condition for hundreds of thousands of miles without issue. Obviously not ideal but not instant death either. I drive this truck 2k miles/yr. Seems like I have time to sort this one out.
2.5) Going to try a filter with a better anti drainback valve and see if that helps. Using AC Delco now. Unlikely, but very little to lose.
3.) Probably going to do an 0411 PCM swap, injectors, and tune. Get that ironed out on this old clunker, then have it rebuilt and only have to retune for the porting and new cam on the new engine. Long way in the future.
Fingers crossed.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
Did you think about or look into a simple "swap out" with a turn-key crate motor that may cost a bit more up front. But it will have 99.9% of everything new. Also longer? better? warranty than from just a local engine builder?
Seems like that would be the kibosh on any possible nagging issues and most surely the last time you would need repair/rebuilding wrenches in that engine compartment.
I did look into crate engines. I could pay the same as the local rebuilder and get a worse reputation and not the engine I want, or I could pay 3-4x more than the local rebuilder and get an engine that would be even further from the engine I want but at least would have a good reputation behind it. Neither of those options appeal to me.
With the local rebuilder, I'd be installing a new water pump, thermostat, new gaskets all around, new cap/rotor, new injectors, new fuel pressure regulator, new oil pressure sender, etc. A lot of these wouldn't come with a crate engine anyway.
99% of piston slap is harmless... just ask the Jeep 4.0 guys. My old GC with the 4.0 would clatter so bad on cold mornings you would swear it was going to throw a rod out the block, but after a few miles it idled as quiet as a church mouse. That engine had well over 250k miles on it at the time.
I had a Mazda B2200 with same issue. Put it to bed with almost 300k on it.
