Any Glaze Users ?

Status
Not open for further replies.
*I have scratches on a fender from the "safe cloth" type auto car wash and two small dents on my hood from God knows what from the auto car wash - never , ever again - only two bucket hand wash for me from now on !!
Originally Posted by NissanMaxima
Originally Posted by HYUNDAIFAN0001
Hand washing is for those who have nothing better to do.


??

Not sure I see the time savings of putting a nice car through an automated car wash that might generate fine scratches that one then has to laboriously polish out, but perhaps you are using a touch-free car wash.
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*I have scratches on a fender from the "safe cloth" type auto car wash and two small dents on my hood from God knows what from the auto car wash - never , ever again - only two bucket hand wash for me from now on !!
Originally Posted by NissanMaxima
Originally Posted by HYUNDAIFAN0001
Hand washing is for those who have nothing better to do.


??

Not sure I see the time savings of putting a nice car through an automated car wash that might generate fine scratches that one then has to laboriously polish out, but perhaps you are using a touch-free car wash.



Nothing but hand washing for me too. I suppose there are reliable no touch washes out there, and that's why I mentioned that, but not worth the risk to me. Besides the danger of contact with brushes, who knows what harsh chemicals are used. If you have a nice finish, a hand wash is the only way to keep it. On the rare occasions, the car has to go to the dealer, I always need to remember to tell them to skip their "courtesy wash".
 
Originally Posted by NissanMaxima
Nothing but hand washing for me too. I suppose there are reliable no touch washes out there, and that's why I mentioned that, but not worth the risk to me. Besides the danger of contact with brushes, who knows what harsh chemicals are used. If you have a nice finish, a hand wash is the only way to keep it. On the rare occasions, the car has to go to the dealer, I always need to remember to tell them to skip their "courtesy wash".

Yeah....many people don't do any homework on automated car washes.

They are not all created equal. The chemicals they use, their power flushes, brushes (if any), drying systems, etc. all can vary. Won't use 90% of the automated car washes, but luckily there is a 1 year old cutting edge facility within 3 minutes of home. I guess if those show cars worth hundreds of thousands of $$$ use them...they're just fine for my SUV as well.

I have used automated facilities for many years. Never got a ding or scratch. That's a result of my detailing steps, as well as own post-wash car care and researching car wash facilities in greater detail than many people are willing to do. My previous 18-year old Mercedes that looked showroom new was a testimony to consistently following a successful detailing program, which included automated car washes...continuing the same regimen.

The purpose of any car wash is to remove the surface dirt and particulates - there's more than one way to address that need.

Applying a quality 5 or 6-step detailing treatment twice/year provides the best protection, with 15 minute UV spray sealant between washes to sustain the "just waxed" protection and appearance.

As for the topic at hand. Polishes are for scuff and surface scratch mitigation. Any glaze product (as part of a 5 or 6-step detailing process) is purely for maximizing the shine appearance...nothing more, nothing less. Glaze products are regularly used on "car show cars" to maximize a shiny appearance.
 
I use a glaze from Poorboy's called Black Hole. It's formulated for dark colored cars and does a great job at filling in minor swirls and scratches. If you apply a sealant after it, it will last a good while. Fact I did our Camry back in June and it still looks good. I could go all out and polish the paint to perfection, but on a daily driver IMO it's not worth it. Take a couple hours to "glaze" and seal and it's good for a while. I apply the Black Hole with my DA as with the sealant. They also make one called White Diamond for lighter colored cars.
 
Really? - they don't seem to mind doing the very same steps I follow (including glaze) on the $280,000 Lamborghini and $400,000 Rolls Silver Shadow at the local car show. Good luck duplicate the results without it.

True gloss and shine comes from perfectly polished surface - not from the glaze covering it. any form of wax, glaze etc does nothing the gloss level but only there for some form of protection
 
Originally Posted by parshisa
True gloss and shine comes from perfectly polished surface - not from the glaze covering it. any form of wax, glaze etc does nothing the gloss level but only there for some form of protection

Plenty of folks/experts would disagree with that, especially since there is no such thing as a "perfectly polished surface".
 
Originally Posted by gofast182
Originally Posted by BlackBowtie63
Adams Brilliant Glaze before paint sealant or wax.

https://adamspolishes.com/shop/exterior/waxing-and-glazing/adam-s-brilliant-glaze.html
https://adamspolishes.com/shop/exterior/waxing-and-glazing/adam-s-liquid-paint-sealant.html

I'm pretty sure that sealant needs to bond to the clearcoat so putting it on top of glaze might not be the best idea.

Multiple layers of product can adhere to the clearcoat layer. Polish is designed to smooth out the clearcoat surface. Glaze adds a very thin layer. A quality sealant (wax) can adhere to any clearcoat surface after either/both products (assuming the original 1st step was to clay bar the surface).
 
Originally Posted by HYUNDAIFAN0001
Originally Posted by gofast182
Originally Posted by BlackBowtie63
Adams Brilliant Glaze before paint sealant or wax.

https://adamspolishes.com/shop/exterior/waxing-and-glazing/adam-s-brilliant-glaze.html
https://adamspolishes.com/shop/exterior/waxing-and-glazing/adam-s-liquid-paint-sealant.html

I'm pretty sure that sealant needs to bond to the clearcoat so putting it on top of glaze might not be the best idea.

Multiple layers of product can adhere to the clearcoat layer. Polish is designed to smooth out the clearcoat surface. Glaze adds a very thin layer. A quality sealant (wax) can adhere to any clearcoat surface after either/both products (assuming the original 1st step was to clay bar the surface).

Even if the layer is the thinnest of the thin, it would be adhering to the glaze layer, not the clearcoat.

Edit: and I'm talking real, modern polymer sealant, not wax.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Not much point in a glaze on a modern finish.

Folks with investments in cars costing hundreds of thousands of dollars would vehemently disagree - as car show car owners will regularly testify.

So would many other folks who successfully use glaze products.

So just don't use it. Plenty of other folks realize what it does and enjoy the nice results.
 
First of all the price of the car makes little difference, RR no longer does high multiple coat lacquer jobs by hand sanded in between coats, they use 2K like Ferrari, Lamborghini, Porsche and all the rest. It is without a doubt high quality paint but the fact that it is 2K makes it impermeable to the common solvent, sealers and oils found in car care products.

Secondly I suspect most if not all of the owners are not out washing and waxing their cars and thirdly I am quite sure these cars are not living in the elements.
Glaze does nothing for a clear coat finish, nothing only sit on top of it! You cant dispute the paint chemistry of 2K urethane.
 
Originally Posted by Trav
First of all the price of the car makes little difference, RR no longer does high multiple coat lacquer jobs by hand sanded in between coats, they use 2K like Ferrari, Lamborghini, Porsche and all the rest. It is without a doubt high quality paint but the fact that it is 2K makes it impermeable to the common solvent, sealers and oils found in car care products.

Secondly I suspect most if not all of the owners are not out washing and waxing their cars and thirdly I am quite sure these cars are not living in the elements.
Glaze does nothing for a clear coat finish, nothing only sit on top of it! You cant dispute the paint chemistry of 2K urethane.

You might just be surprised. Of the 47 cars in the recent car show here, 22 of the owners wash and detail their own cars - in fact they made a big deal of pointing that out. Another 5 did one of those two tasks themselves.

Paint and finishes have evolved over the past 20-30 years. Nobody contested that Glaze didn't just sit on top of whatever is beneath it (albeit a thin coat) - it just raises the shine level a bit. Then add in that not every manufacturer nor even every vehicle gets the same level of clear-coat protection. So one size - just like one simple answer - doesn't fit the world of vehicle exterior maintenance.

The thread topic....yes...glaze adds additional shine if properly applied. It's simple.
 
It's been proven using gloss meter that neither wax no glaze/sealant increases the gloss reading. Polished to perfection paint - does. Don't waste your time and money on the glaze. Or do, if it makes you happy
 
You keep coming back to car shows, cars that only see sunlight for several hours at a time and rain, never. A blemish free clearcoat and high quality LSP are going to yield the best possible shine and stand up to more than being on the lawn of a show/concours for a day.
 
Originally Posted by parshisa
It's been proven using gloss meter that neither wax no glaze/sealant increases the gloss reading. Polished to perfection paint - does. Don't waste your time and money on the glaze. Or do, if it makes you happy

So far other than your staunch opinions...nothing has been proven of the sort.
Originally Posted by gofast182
You keep coming back to car shows, cars that only see sunlight for several hours at a time and rain, never. A blemish free clearcoat and high quality LSP are going to yield the best possible shine and stand up to more than being on the lawn of a show/concours for a day.

Actually, many of those carshow cars are driven quite regularly...we see them driving on the streets as well as at restaurants, gas stations, malls, stores, the highway, etc. We personally know 3 of the owners and they drive their show cars "as much as possible to enjoy them - rain or shine" (pun intended).

There is no such thing as a blemish-free clear-coat - which is why they make all sorts of detailing products...to keep the clear-coat protected and in good condition (especially UV protection) and also add shine.

So after all this noise about clear-cost, car washing, and other distractions...

...yes, plenty of people use glaze and it renders additional shine when properly applied. Seems simple enough to most people.
 
From the article Pim Tac posted.

Quote
is a detailing product originally developed for ‘show' cars and is often applied to the paint surface to hide minor imperfections - a ‘beauty' product. Due to its ‘hiding' abilities, glaze is also used by large detailing shops to hide imperfections due to improper polishing. The question we want to answer here is whether or not a glaze is necessary for the enthusiast


Quote
If you are performing a complete detail on a car and, hence, have polished it properly, then there is not really a place for glaze in your detailing process. A glaze is like a band-aid…it performs a temporary fix by ‘covering' up some imperfections. Some people will routinely use a glaze in their detailing process if they don't want to take the time to perfect their paint


Read.. If you know what you are doing you don't need this stuff. You remind me of another forum poster that cannot and will not admit they are wrong under any circumstances. You have been proven wrong, let it go.

Nuff said!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

E
Rv and boats.
Replies
3
Views
371
jetman
M
What product to restore paint "moisture"?
Replies
18
Views
787
nate379
W
Touch up paint blob
Replies
2
Views
961
Rand
A
Pics of Nissan Leaf exterior detail
Replies
17
Views
781
loneryder
C
Sealant vs Wax
2
Replies
36
Views
5K
Chevelle3221
Back
Top