Any experience with alignment castor/camber bolt kits?

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pbm

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My daughters 2008 Hyundai Elantra wears front tires on the inside edge despite being 'aligned'.
I read on a Hyundai forum that some have had success fixing this issue using 'castor/camber bolt kits'.
Does anybody have experience using these? Are they something I could install before bringing the car in for another alignment?
Rockauto has several available for this vehicle.

PS: NY roads are atrocious despite being one of the highest taxed states in the country so that may be part of the problem (potholes
knocking it out of alignment)...my daughter does sometimes seem to aim for the potholes.....j/k...
 
So you need problem solver hardware for camber. Is this alignment accomplished through the strut tower or in another way?
 
I'm not a huge fan of them, but will use them in a pinch. What I've noticed is that they advertise "up to 1.5 degrees of adjustment" or something of that nature, yet I'm rarely able to get more than .5.

Do you happen to have the most recent specs of said alignment?
 
Are camber and caster actually adjustable on your Hyundai?

If not, either the toe is out of spec, or you hit something so hard that something else was damaged and needs to be replaced.

A less-likely possibility is that the shocks are worn
 
I have a lowered 2018 Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T with camber bolts in front , the rear AWD Hyundai Multi-Link is fully adjustable. I run neg 1.5 on all four corners. The poster who could only get ,5 ....you need to roll them 180 degs then. My OEM camber was 0 on one side if I remember right. I had to have camber bolts. They are working great but they need replacing every 2 years I have found. Since I HIGHLY load them.

https://www.hyundaikonaforum.com/showcase/2018-kona-awd-1-6t-lowered.1162/

Yes, you install them before you go. Get the galvanized looking ones. I will only buy the Eibach German ones even though I "think" they are the same, but I will gamble the German ones may have better metallurgy since my car sees 80 mph highly loaded cornering many times a month in summer.

Mine look exactly like this one. Max torque on mine are 99 ft lbs. Follow that to a tee, And make sure the alignment guy uses a torque wench. Say you want to see him do it.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6691900&cc=1441280&jsn=16&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7Wbtv3UuYQU5UTBDOlvxcFeEkdseDSFBUe%2Fg9wpkQ1BLT%2B3kXVufkYGa5iZAHQ68xuxgHjWfDDl8hX27ERzBD6fkn6BFbtrgHXG8Op%2BWOMZ%2FihBLDriYWTlmPjHTCL%2BNPr0gwgy%2FPvqDBlkxHlrXw9oE76L4JnFxjKsP3BOcwnTMqQUDg1cl9DJtkXPJwFQEXVF1XdWbpBxlM7I1WtvCn%2FT2PUohyXSuI4Tg%2BFz86GJwN1CtYJOTnZlMxKQfuDNebUu9VMg8Ybrol%2F5zDWzAUaD0pUaeXE10%2BcxZ8LFDX5RUsPJBJ5i%2BzhsPaQuYhFEjxiB91kExSMRvXtO6j%2BoOaraMu%2B89M1962RgA%2B2a0ExNGKDJWkh3lqG5PAMFq5pwC%2FPlsxd1UoP%2FWZx%2BNJHu%2BvaWgSWat%2BQiz7oFizid5kjkLhzH3b3mFAm%2FhHB1Qe9LrxQjd8Es53OyOq6vDioeLEzhPKfymeTLl9Qg%3D%3D&jsn=16&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7Wbtv3UuYQU5UTBDOlvxcFeEkdseDSFBUe%2Fg9wpkQ1BLT%2B3kXVufkYGa5iZAHQ68xuxgHjWfDDl8hX27ERzBD6fkn6BFbtrgHXG8Op%2BWOMZ%2FihBLDriYWTlmPjHTCL%2BNPr0gwgy%2FPvqDBlkxHlrXw9oE76L4JnFxjKsP3BOcwnTMqQUDg1cl9DJtkXPJwFQEXVF1XdWbpBxlM7I1WtvCn%2FT2PUohyXSuI4Tg%2BFz86GJwN1CtYJOTnZlMxKQfuDNebUu9VMg8Ybrol%2F5zDWzAUaD0pUaeXE10%2BcxZ8LFDX5RUsPJBJ5i%2BzhsPaQuYhFEjxiB91kExSMRvXtO6j%2BoOaraMu%2B89M1962RgA%2B2a0ExNGKDJWkh3lqG5PAMFq5pwC%2FPlsxd1UoP%2FWZx%2BNJHu%2BvaWgSWat%2BQiz7oFizid5kjkLhzH3b3mFAm%2FhHB1Qe9LrxQjd8Es53OyOq6vDioeLEzhPKfymeTLl9Qg%3D%3D
 
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I'm kind of a firm believer in that you don't need the bolts for a standard suspension. The only reason you need them is because some suspension component is worn out. If you've already done things like replace springs/struts, ball joints, tie rods, control arms etc., then you can use them as the last resort but not the first.
 
don't use them. toe eats tires fast. a stock suspension shouldn't have excessive camber problems unless something is worn or the shop doesn't know what they're doing
 
Lots of cars come with eccentric bolts and slotted holes as standard, theyre not a bad thing.

I agree, though, that if your car will not align without using something that was not there when it was first built, then something is bent.

Get under there with a tape measure and a straight edge.
 
Thanks for all the replies.
The last alignment I had done didn't provide a printout but I've had good luck with them on my other vehicles so I continued to use them.

The alignment before that (done at a very respectable shop near my previous place of employment which is too far to go back to now) showed 1 issue with SAI (whatever that is).

The specified range is 12.9* - 13.9*….both sides read 14.1 before....the front right was corrected to 13.9*….but the front left remained at 14.1 even after the alignment.
All other readings, including 'toe' were within specs. both before and after the alignment. (spec. range is -0.10* - 0.10*....the right was 0.00* before and 0.01* after...the left was -0.10* before and 0.00* after. (the left side was within spec. before.. but right at the limit)

They never mentioned me needing any new parts but I did install new Gabriel struts and mounts and sway links after hitting a huge pothole on the NY State Thruway with a car full of people (it nearly knocked the fillings out of my teeth)….I had an alignment done after installing those parts...

What does the SAI describe and what would the inability to get it into range signify?
 
One time firestone tried selling me one of these kits, so I brought it to a reputable shop and the alignment guy started laughing and said your truck already has them from the factory!
 
Castor/camber bolts will allow you to get more/less camber if your stock ones are already at their limits - something you don't currently have to worry about. If you installed new struts and had an alignment done right after, they weren't settled in. I'm willing to bet that if you go in now and get a new read out, you'll see more positive toe (thanks to the MacPherson suspension design.)
 
As I stated in my previous post...the SAI on the drivers side was off even after the alignment. (see my previous post in this thread)
I'm not sure what that means but I bought the car used and it's possible that it had been in an accident prior to me buying it.
I bought it with 28K and it now has 119K...but it's always been hard on front tires.....otherwise it's been an excellent car.
 
You need an alignment shop that knows what they are doing. Alignment can be a science, and a good shop will know exactly what to do to fix your tire wear. If your tires wear funny and your alignment shop says it's aligned properly...get a new alignment shop. Not just anybody can do a proper alignment, even if they have the newest equipment.
 
Tape measure and level has gotten my car almost dead nuts on spec and it's even lowered. Then i will take it to an alignment shop and ask them to put the car up and check it. I will then look and at the sheet with them and tell the tech what i want adjusted. Car drives straight and doesn't eat tires like it used too.

I went this route after so many bad alignments or the tech doesn't have a clue what to do.
 
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