Anti-Seize on Ball Joint Tapered Stud?
- Thread starter SubLGT
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If you are talking about where the stud goes into the control arm, then I think it is a GREAT idea. As long as you keep it off the threads, then it should torque down as usual.
You will be thanking yourself the next time you have it apart - especially if it is for a control arm bushing.
You will be thanking yourself the next time you have it apart - especially if it is for a control arm bushing.
Never put never seize or impact gun to install on a tapered fit. Just clean, dry and torque properly.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Never put never seize or impact gun to install on a tapered fit. Just clean, dry and torque properly.
^^^^ this , you want that taper to be tight and using the anti sieze would prevent that . What is you reason for wanting to use it ?....so it's easy to take apart if you have to replace it ?
You would be best to install a grease fitting if able , a little grease will keep the balljoint from drying out as long as the boot doesn't tear .
Never put never seize or impact gun to install on a tapered fit. Just clean, dry and torque properly.
^^^^ this , you want that taper to be tight and using the anti sieze would prevent that . What is you reason for wanting to use it ?....so it's easy to take apart if you have to replace it ?
You would be best to install a grease fitting if able , a little grease will keep the balljoint from drying out as long as the boot doesn't tear .
Agree with not lubing it. If you have to remove again, a pickle fork always does the job anyway.
Don't put anti seize there!
And avoid driving near Gabe on the road - his foolish idea is unsafe.
And avoid driving near Gabe on the road - his foolish idea is unsafe.
Originally Posted By: SubLGT
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Don't do it. If the ball joint seizes or just gets really stiff the taper could start spinning and would hog out the knuckle. If the cotter pin snaps it could even unscrew the castle nut.
If the ball joint seizes, isn't it better to have the stud turn, than have the stud be broken off?
If the joint seizes, the stud will eventually break off regardless.
If a seized balljoint stud is able to rotate, it is true that it will probably not break on account of torque, at least not for a while, although the hole in the knuckle will eventually get destroyed (which is not repairable).
But a seized balljoint will be subject to excessive flexing stress at the stud even if it can rotate, so it will eventually break from flex anyway.
Do not apply any sort of lube to the balljoint stud.
To easily and quickly remove any balljoint stud from its tapered hole very easily and reliably, no matter how tight, use the correct and quite-inexpensive tool:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html
Other sizes are available, and all can be ground-out by you to handle larger joints.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Don't do it. If the ball joint seizes or just gets really stiff the taper could start spinning and would hog out the knuckle. If the cotter pin snaps it could even unscrew the castle nut.
If the ball joint seizes, isn't it better to have the stud turn, than have the stud be broken off?
If the joint seizes, the stud will eventually break off regardless.
If a seized balljoint stud is able to rotate, it is true that it will probably not break on account of torque, at least not for a while, although the hole in the knuckle will eventually get destroyed (which is not repairable).
But a seized balljoint will be subject to excessive flexing stress at the stud even if it can rotate, so it will eventually break from flex anyway.
Do not apply any sort of lube to the balljoint stud.
To easily and quickly remove any balljoint stud from its tapered hole very easily and reliably, no matter how tight, use the correct and quite-inexpensive tool:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html
Other sizes are available, and all can be ground-out by you to handle larger joints.
With the amount of torque applied to the nut on the balljoint, probably 95%+ of the anti-seize would be squeezed out, I don't see it as a problem...
If you're worried about it just spray a little WD-40 on the nuts at each OCI, I don't live where rust is a issue so don't worry about such...
If you're worried about it just spray a little WD-40 on the nuts at each OCI, I don't live where rust is a issue so don't worry about such...
Originally Posted By: TFB1
With the amount of torque applied to the nut on the balljoint, probably 95%+ of the anti-seize would be squeezed out, I don't see it as a problem...
That last 5% would get squeezed out over time, and there would go your torque setting.
With the amount of torque applied to the nut on the balljoint, probably 95%+ of the anti-seize would be squeezed out, I don't see it as a problem...
That last 5% would get squeezed out over time, and there would go your torque setting.
How many times are you planning on replacing the ball joints?
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