Its time for the annual cooling drain/refill for my 2000 Crown Vic and 81 T-bird.
The Vic requires VC-4A coolant spec, while I have no idea what the T-bird requires, for the past 23+ years its been using whatever green stuff that we got.
The E-250 needs VC-7A or the Premium Gold Ford anti-freeze, but its still too new to require a coolant drain.
Now what anti-freeze should I use for the T-bird and Vic for maximum protection against rust, electrolysis, etc?
Should I add Red-Line water wetter for added protection?
Here's a quote from their site:
Prestone green anti-freeze + 1 bottle of Redline Water Wetter.
Redline states not to use more than a 50% mixture of ethylene glycol because glycols can break down over time into acids. Less glycol = less potential acids?
For the E-250, it's got a 7 gal capacity so it looks like 2 bottles of Redline + an anti-freeze that's compatible with Ford Premium Gold?
Anyone know if the Premium Gold can be converted back to the green stuff? I have heard bits from various ppl regarding the need to stick with a manuf recommended coolant, then I've heard that they can be mixed, etc...
The Vic requires VC-4A coolant spec, while I have no idea what the T-bird requires, for the past 23+ years its been using whatever green stuff that we got.
The E-250 needs VC-7A or the Premium Gold Ford anti-freeze, but its still too new to require a coolant drain.
Now what anti-freeze should I use for the T-bird and Vic for maximum protection against rust, electrolysis, etc?
Should I add Red-Line water wetter for added protection?
Here's a quote from their site:
I was thinking:quote:
CORROSION PROTECTION
Modern automotive engines now use aluminum for heads, radiators, water pump housings, and nearly all hose fittings. These engines require significantly greater corrosion protection than their cast iron counterparts of the past. Aluminum is such an electroactive metal that it requires an impenetrable corrosion inhibitor film to prevent rapid corrosion. Acid neutralization capability is very important. Coolant which has been left in a cooling system for several years has probably become acidic from the oxidation of the glycol to acids. Also, keeping the glycol concentration in the cooling system below 50% will help stability.
Red Line also provides excellent protection from cavitation erosion in the water pump and cylinder head. Localized boiling in the cylinder head forms vapor bubbles which collapse when they come in contact with cooler liquids. This collapse creates tremendous shock waves which removes the inhibitor film from the aluminum surface and can cause catastrophic erosion of the aluminum if the inhibitor does not reform the film quickly. Another problem created by cavitation erosion is the deposition of the removed aluminum as a salt with poor heat transfer properties in the lower temperature radiator tubes. Red Line prevents this corrosion through effective film formation and smaller vapor bubble formation, which has a less violent collapse. Foam control is equally important since entrained air will cause cavitation erosion due to the collapse of foam bubbles. Red Line provides excellent control of foam with water alone and glycol solutions.
Most coolants additives on the market provide only protection for iron and perhaps moderate protection for aluminum. The milky soluble oil types can actually impede heat transfer by wetting the metal surface with oil and this oil can swell and soften rubber coolant hoses. Table 3 shows the many tests which the Red Line formula will satisfy and how it compares to a standard antifreeze.
Prestone green anti-freeze + 1 bottle of Redline Water Wetter.
Redline states not to use more than a 50% mixture of ethylene glycol because glycols can break down over time into acids. Less glycol = less potential acids?
For the E-250, it's got a 7 gal capacity so it looks like 2 bottles of Redline + an anti-freeze that's compatible with Ford Premium Gold?
Anyone know if the Premium Gold can be converted back to the green stuff? I have heard bits from various ppl regarding the need to stick with a manuf recommended coolant, then I've heard that they can be mixed, etc...