Ant-Sieze
- Thread starter JMG
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I would not use anti-sieze or never-sieze on spark plug threads unless the service manual suggest something.
Most never-sieze is metallic based and can behave badly when applied to aluminum. If you ever need to use never-sieze around aluminum use 'ceramic based' stuff or something non metallic.
All I have ever seen mentioned in service manuals is applying a drop of motor oil to spark plug threads.
Most never-sieze is metallic based and can behave badly when applied to aluminum. If you ever need to use never-sieze around aluminum use 'ceramic based' stuff or something non metallic.
All I have ever seen mentioned in service manuals is applying a drop of motor oil to spark plug threads.
I've got conflicting reports on this. The engine, 5.4L Ford, 01 with aluminum heads. These are the heads that are notorious for spitting out plugs. I'd like also to settle this once and for all. I've even called different Ford dealerships and they too have given me totally different answers to that subject. Personally, I've never used anything on plugs. But with aluminum heads, I'm not so sure anymore. What the bottom line?
LOL, you should know that NOTHING will ever be settled "for once and for all"--oil viscosity, oil brand, spark plug brand, etc...
Here is NGK's opinion .
The only reason why people do not recommend a/s is that then it's easier to overtorque the plugs. I always just snug mine down as I have the crushable o-ring on my application (Honda).
With regards to spark plugs, I've slowly gotten away from the paste types of anti-sieze and now use this:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/antiseize.php
I applied this to the last set of plugs I installed. I'll know how well it works next time plug replacement comes around.
One thing that GM states in the service manual for the old 3.1 V6 aluminum head engine is to remove the plugs when the engine is cool. I do it after the car has been sitting over night.
I still use paste on other fasteners, though.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/antiseize.php
I applied this to the last set of plugs I installed. I'll know how well it works next time plug replacement comes around.
One thing that GM states in the service manual for the old 3.1 V6 aluminum head engine is to remove the plugs when the engine is cool. I do it after the car has been sitting over night.
I still use paste on other fasteners, though.
Interesting that NGK recommends always using anti-seize. Bosch plugs have nickel plated threads that supposedly do not need anti-seize (http://www.boschusa.com/AutoParts/SparkPlugs/Platinum/ ). I’m not saying one is better than the other nor am I promoting Bosch plugs, just bringing up a comparison.
The service manual for my car says DO NOT use anti-seize. It also recommends Bosch plugs. I think they are counting on the nickel plating on the threads.
I’ve heard three bad things about using anti-seize on plugs. I’m not sure I buy all of them, but this is what I’ve heard: It can interfere with the electrical grounding of the plug resulting in a weaker spark, it can get into the cylinder where it eventually makes it to the oxygen sensor and can damage it, and it makes setting the proper torque difficult.
The service manual for my car says DO NOT use anti-seize. It also recommends Bosch plugs. I think they are counting on the nickel plating on the threads.
I’ve heard three bad things about using anti-seize on plugs. I’m not sure I buy all of them, but this is what I’ve heard: It can interfere with the electrical grounding of the plug resulting in a weaker spark, it can get into the cylinder where it eventually makes it to the oxygen sensor and can damage it, and it makes setting the proper torque difficult.
I've got the same engine in my Expedition. I always use some sort of anti-seize, mostly out of habit from back in the day: anti-seize & dielelectric grease on plugs
I use anti-seize because I don't want to risk damaging the threads if a plug gets stuck in there. There's only like three threads holding the plug in place in these 5.4L mod motors.
BTW - if I ever meet the guy who green-lighted the engine compartment design, I'm gonna give him a knuckle sandwich. 3.5 book hours to change plugs is ridiculous. And take it from me, it really takes a long time and is a major PITA.
I use anti-seize because I don't want to risk damaging the threads if a plug gets stuck in there. There's only like three threads holding the plug in place in these 5.4L mod motors.
BTW - if I ever meet the guy who green-lighted the engine compartment design, I'm gonna give him a knuckle sandwich. 3.5 book hours to change plugs is ridiculous. And take it from me, it really takes a long time and is a major PITA.
i've heard similar stuff, and have used it sporadically with no harm nor benefit that i can recall (a paste type).
My last set of Bosch +4 removed very easily after being in my aluminum toyota 3.0L for over 100k, without the benefit of a/s.
But as was mentioned earlier, the crush washers may be making a difference. The nickel plating is an interesting comment and may be significant.
That I doubt. If that were true, then silicone dielectric grease (which is a lot more viscous and does not contain metal particles, unlike anti-sieze) would interfere with any electrical connection you use it on, and it clearly does not.
(Silicone dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor. Many people mistakenly think it's a conductor).
if you have aluminum heads and plan on changing your plugs infrequently (like 5yrs/150,000 miles) you WILL need to use an anti-seize.
otherwise anti-sieze is just a safety on aluminum heads (assuming a 2yr/24,000 interval) and worthless for steel plugs in cast iron heads.
otherwise anti-sieze is just a safety on aluminum heads (assuming a 2yr/24,000 interval) and worthless for steel plugs in cast iron heads.
A LITTLE anti seize on the threads is OK. Don't spray it on. It can get on the insulator, impregnate itself, and cause misfires.
At Mercedes, we were warned that too much anti seize on a plug can cause it to run hotter than it should, as it impedes the cooling of the plug.
At Mercedes, we were warned that too much anti seize on a plug can cause it to run hotter than it should, as it impedes the cooling of the plug.
A connection that isn't made with enough force to displace dielectric grease isn't likely a good connection to begin with, at least as far as most underhood electrical connections go. (Most service manuals instruct the technician to use a mating terminal or disassemble the connector and pull one of the terminals out to test the retention force when a bad connection is suspected. I myself have found bad connections that way).
As far as spark plug connectors go, I've noticed that many times the female sparkplug connector (in the boot) is tight enough to mark or scratch the male sparkplug terminal on the sparkplug itself, which indicates to me that there is indeed enough force to squeeze the dielectric grease out of the way.
I think that this getting really over-complicated
I can only talk about what I've used for the last 30 years or so - a small dab of silicone based dielectric grease for all plug wire terminals and another small dab of paste anti-sieze on the plug threads. I have NEVER had any problems with poor conductivity, plugs grounding out or any of the stuff that's been been mentioned here.
This procedure has worked for aluminum and cast iron heads and for all types of ignition systems. It has also worked for plugs with and without crush washers and of various materials. The key here is to be very moderate in application - a little goes a long way.
I can only talk about what I've used for the last 30 years or so - a small dab of silicone based dielectric grease for all plug wire terminals and another small dab of paste anti-sieze on the plug threads. I have NEVER had any problems with poor conductivity, plugs grounding out or any of the stuff that's been been mentioned here.
This procedure has worked for aluminum and cast iron heads and for all types of ignition systems. It has also worked for plugs with and without crush washers and of various materials. The key here is to be very moderate in application - a little goes a long way.
I echo MUDs contribution as its been my way for the last 30 years. edie
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