An acceptable amount of rust? (pics)

[GearheadTool]

Looking at cars up to and including the NH area. I see a car, if the seller flakes out on the Subie which may or may not happen, it is a drawn out thing. I see this car, and it says it has a very little amount of rust. I will post the pics.

What would you say as to what you see. Neutralizeable, as in POR15 or Rust Bullet? Is anything more than this a problem? Are holes next on this car? And is that normal at the jack/pinch point, a rusted rail?..............

 

[demarpaint]

I shy away from buying anything with rust. That can be tough depending on where you live and your price range. That rust will continue to spread, you can slow it down but not stop it. Opinions vary. POR products would be the best to use if you decide on buying the car.

 

[NHGUY]

Thats not bad.Sandblast it to bare,POR it and then paint it body color.

 

[GearheadTool]

Wonderful. (Its in Chestnut Hill, New Hampshire.) It is a year 2000. That means (nothing?)

I may or may not buy this (Its $3800) but if that rust can be isolated, almost cut away.... I see it is on the pinch weld/jacking point/lift rail. And does it look like someone tried to jack the fender/ I see a lot of cars like that. I wonder if that can ever be "fixed" or NO.

I am unsure, but I also may be seeing rust all the way down the passenger side of the pinch rail, starting. So even that rust cant be stopped.................. ?

This is what the inside looks like. This caught my eye.

Quote:
Thats not bad.Sandblast it to bare,POR it and then paint it body color.


Can it be sanded? What grit?

Also, I passed on the Mercedes Benz 420SEL with the rust hole under the light. Something tells me that will be around awhile, so.. In the future.........

 

[demarpaint]

Anything can be sanded and repainted. The problem is in the joint itself, where you can't get at the rust, that will spread. How long do you plan on keeping the car? How many miles are on the car? That will help in determining if the price is high or not.

 

[Phishin]

Just use POR15.

Make sure you use the pre-cleaner. It's zinc phosphate and acidic. Eats away surface rust....then activates steel surface....then the zinc plates out and acts as sacrificial anode. Then paint with POR.

THAT'S NOT BAD AT ALL. it's actually nothing.

 

[eljefino]

That rust is fine. But note that rocker panels rot from the inside out. Stab them with a pencil to see if it's just paint holding them together.

That rust you see is "honest rust" that appears to have never been touched up. Worse is when someone slaps bondo and paint over it and it grows in secrecy then explodes on you.

What is it, a century/ regal? Those DO rust the rockers and brake/ fuel lines very regularly.

Southern NH is a great spot for car shopping. Just make sure you get a warranty of inspectability. I know not valid for Mass but you could find a NH inspection station that will flunk anything that will flunk a Mass one.

 

[supton]

Doesn't look bad at all. It'll likely go 5 years with nothing done to it.

 

[GearheadTool]

Thanks, all. It costs $3800. 58k miles. Its a little out of my range. That Subaru is still in play. "Wheel bearings."

(thank you supton. Yes, Mass inspection is a concern. Ill check for rust on that too.. its bailing out his other car.) Hmmm.

The idea is to keep a car forever, IMHO. That one sure looks pretty. Im not buying it but for whoever is, here is linky. 1999 Buick Century Limited 58K miles new tires leather 1 owner moving - $3800 (Chestnut Hill)
-- Nashua, NH, $1100 http://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/cto/3255047905.html
By the way, this car is still around. I have a feeling I can look at it years from now. This is bad rust right eljef?

 

[Russ300H]

Run don't walk away from that Mercedes. Remember one thing in looking at a car in NH. A lot of them come from Mass and are being sold in NH due to lax consumer protection laws. On CL a lot of dealers are selling cars as private parties. Do NOT buy a car if the private seller can't show a title in his name. Personally I would look at American cars as they are much less expensive to fix. I recently bought a 2000 Durango for $1000 with 125K. It was in NH, but from Texas (Zero rust) Put $700 into it and now have an SUV I can tow with. I also bought a '95 Cirrus for $600 in Lynn. It needed a Distributor I bought for $85 new on eBay. Only 120K and runs like a charm. I have found some great deals on CL, but you have to be selective.

 

[eljefino]

That mercedes rust doesn't look bad only b/c it's not structural. I can't speak for the rest of the car, naturally.

I've gotten a couple NH cars that came with a dealer warranty of inspectability that got inspected in other states, one Maine, one Texas. NH will let a dealer sell a car "as is" while Mass won't. Mass also makes private party sales pass inspection over a low dollar amount ($700 IIRC) and under 120k-ish miles. So you can't disclaim away in a bill of sale.

 

[JTK]

Like said, the surface rust on that Buick's rocker panel lip doesn't look bad at all. I've never used POR-15, but hear it's good stuff.

With that rust, you could probably get away with a good wire-wheeling, prime and Rustoleum paint. Nice thing about that area is you could go any color you want.

Man I hate pinch-point jack points! The first time you use them the paint cracks, gets knocked off and the process begins.

Joel

 

[jcwit]

The white car in the 1st post looks like an excellent candadate for Fluid Film to stop the rust.

 

[SLCraig]

Originally Posted By: jcwit
The white car in the 1st post looks like an excellent candadate for Fluid Film to stop the rust.


Fluid Film is the bomb. I use both that and KROWN on my cars.
I would still use POR if you plan on keeping the car. Soaking it in Fluid Film or KROWN will slow it down considerably, but its not a permanent solution, POR really does work excellent.

 

[4x4chevydude]

I just bought a Buick Century just like that only its a 98 with 66k miles on it and the only rust is the same rust you have the picture of...so far I love the car and its a good solid runner...the brake lines on it are pretty rusted adn need to be replaced but other than that check the coolant and oil on the 3.1 the intake manifold gasket leaks....I paid 4k out here for mine which was what KBB had it valued at so I think the one you are looking at is a great deal....very confortable car to drive

 

[GearheadTool]

Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Originally Posted By: jcwit
The white car in the 1st post looks like an excellent candadate for Fluid Film to stop the rust.


Fluid Film is the bomb. I use both that and KROWN on my cars.
I would still use POR if you plan on keeping the car. Soaking it in Fluid Film or KROWN will slow it down considerably, but its not a permanent solution, POR really does work excellent.


So if I were to sand down to bare metal and take a brush and let POR sit it will make it A-O-K? Just asking because this car would be pricey for me.

I need to be prepared for this guy to back out of the Subie deal. Something tells me he may end up keeping it. I hope I am wrong *knocks on my wood desk* - Which, btw, I will crawl under to look for rust. POR15..........

What is the deal with Rust Bullet?

 

[eljefino]

I got this 2000 century two years ago for $300.

It's a little worse for shape. Don't overpay, is where I'm going.

 

[TallPaul]

But if you live in the Motor City expect this:

My 1992 Aerostar. Of course it may have helped if I had washed the thing at least once in the last 12+ years, but I didn't.

 

[jcwit]

Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Originally Posted By: jcwit
The white car in the 1st post looks like an excellent candadate for Fluid Film to stop the rust.


Fluid Film is the bomb. I use both that and KROWN on my cars.
I would still use POR if you plan on keeping the car. Soaking it in Fluid Film or KROWN will slow it down considerably, but its not a permanent solution, POR really does work excellent.


It has been a permanent fix for 4 years now on a used car I bought. Have no experience with Krown as its not available here in the U.S.