Amsoil SSO 0-30w, 14.3k miles, 08 GMC Acadia 3.6L

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
How about this, so we compare apples to apples. Two identical cars with 100K miles on them, used exactly the same way, identical in every aspect. Car A. Mobil 1 EP changed every 6 months at 10,000 miles, with a M1 filter. Car B. SSO changed once a year at 20,000 miles, with an EaO filter. Which car would you buy?


The one that didn't have Edge in it!!
grin2.gif
crackmeup2.gif



I'd take Edge, PP, PU as well. I'd even consider XL if I didn't have to pay a PC fee or shipping.
smile.gif
 
Lord, if Amsoil offered free shipping, even with a PC membership. I'd do that in a heartbeat.
19.gif


Great conversation guys. I see points on both sides. I stand by my original post, and I too am still learning about decrypting UOA for 'potential' known unknowns and unknown unknowns.
crazy2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: Artem
why does everyone seem to miss reading that part in every OCI thread that's posted.


Maybe because there is nothing magical about pushing your oil to it's very, very utmost limits and hoping that you haven't hurt anything. And we should not be encouraging others to do so.

I stand by my first post, the OP would be much better served with semi-annual changes with the XL product or another well made oil.


Two words:

Cheap
&
Lazy

Pushing the OCIs is a heck of a way to save an hour and $35. And synthetics are sometimes sold on longer OCIs but were developed for increased performace/reduced wear.

When you take identical engines, one with long OCIs and one with short OCIs, the one with short OCIs is going to produce more power, torque and efficiency, even though they may both run to 200K+ miles.
 
Originally Posted By: Jeff_in_VABch

When you take identical engines, one with long OCIs and one with short OCIs, the one with short OCIs is going to produce more power, torque and efficiency, even though they may both run to 200K+ miles.


Prove it.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: Jeff_in_VABch

When you take identical engines, one with long OCIs and one with short OCIs, the one with short OCIs is going to produce more power, torque and efficiency, even though they may both run to 200K+ miles.


Prove it.


That part is questionable. Technically, if the oil is holding up like it should during the longer OCIs in engine B and isn't causing extra wear then there will be no difference in cleanliness or efficiency vs engine A after 100,000 miles of use, for example.

Now if the oil is breaking down @ 10k OCIs and is causing a bit more wear in engine B, i can see where it would lose a few ponies at the end of the day but the difference would be very small and only actually seen on a very accurate engine dyno.

Your butt dyno wouldn't be able to tell the difference between engine A & B.

I agree that pushing the OCIs a bit too far just to save a few bucks isn't worth it, esp if you're putting the engine at risk of extra wear and tear. Oils can be bought for relatively cheap prices and changing it 2X a year isn't THAT expensive... then again, why do more maintenance then you really have too???
 
Originally Posted By: jetman

After the second sample, I changed the oil, again using 6 qts of SSO 0-30w. I also changed the full flow filter to a Amsoil Ea011. I drained the old oil out of the EaBP90, refilled it with new SSO, and put it back on, since it only has about 4k miles on it.

I plan to changed the oil and ff filter once a yr. The wife puts about 14K miles a yr on it.

What do ya think?


I must be missing something here. You added the bypass filter at some point during this run, right--and installed a larger filter? So, you also added some oil to accommodate these--or am I misunderstanding the timing of things?

If that's the case, and you ran this oil for that distance with a significant amount of top-up oil, then I'd say 14K is simply too long to run this oil based on it's condition.

I'm all for convenience, but personally I'd shorten the interval.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
Yea that! ^ Screw the once a year [censored] and change it every 10K.


JUST TODAY I brought my GMC Sierra to the Amsoil rep who I buy oil from to have him analyze it, especially since my coolant is low with no visible leak.

Anyway, I got 8,000 miles on the ASL & EAO filter and ran it HARD towing a big boat a lot in the Spring, Summer & Fall for 1.5 years!

The analysis machine showed the oil is still in great shape, no wear metals, plenty of TBN left (and thank God, no coolant)!!
banana2.gif


So, yes, run it longer!
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: Jeff_in_VABch

When you take identical engines, one with long OCIs and one with short OCIs, the one with short OCIs is going to produce more power, torque and efficiency, even though they may both run to 200K+ miles.


Prove it.


It appears you have very limited technical understanding of engine mechanics, which is understandable, as most of the public is not in a technical field.

I will give you a few examples which you should be able to understand.

The most common problem with Ford's 7.3 Direct Injection Turbo diesel is related to engine oil change interval and type of oil being used. It is critical for proper engine operation that the customer or technician servicing the vehicle check that the correct oil is being used. This engine uses a high pressure oil pump to operate the fuel injectors. Typical system pressures are 500 psi at idle, 1200 at 3300 rpm in neutral, and 3600 psi at full load acceleration. Oil for the PowerStroke requires an anti-foaming agent to prevent the oil from aerating and reducing pressure, which would result in poor fuel injector spray patterns and reduced power. Depending on vehicle usage, the anti-foaming agents are depleted in 3000-5000 miles.

Approximately 60% of engine wear is achieved by means which do not produce material loss and therefore do not show up in used oil analysis as additional materials/analytes in the oil. Burnishing (plastic type deformation) and peening (another plastic type deformation) are just two modes of wear in an engine which have significant effects on components.

Burnishing occurs on surfaces that conform to each other, such as between the ring and cylinder wall or timimg chain pin and roller, but it happens on a microscopic scale. Even the smoothest of surfaces will have imperfections if viewed at a high enough magnification. The imperfections that extend above the general form of a surface are called asperities, and they plow material on their mating surface. The combined effect of many of these asperities produce the smeared texture that is associated with burnishing (which appears to be a polished surface). This burnishing effect is always bad. Modern cylinder bores recieve a 3-step cylinder bore finish preparation. This preparation provides a microscopicaly rough bore with a plateau finish. Any material deposition in the valleys of this finish (oil deposits or burnishing) significantly reduce piston ring sealing and lubrication while while producing little to no change in bore diameter.

I dont have time to keep on this thread, but similar burnishing processes causes lengthening of timing chains which retards cam timing and reduces cylinder pressure and effective power over time.

Also, the peening wear process affects components in the valve train, including the cam lobes which reduces overall valve lift and significantly reduces power.

There are lots of other wear processes going on that the UOA does not account for. Im just saying, you can run that old oil as long as you want, and it will probably run forever, but you are still wearing out thousands of contact points at an accelerated rate and reducing performance.
 
Originally Posted By: Jeff_in_VABch


It appears you have very limited technical understanding of engine mechanics, which is understandable, as most of the public is not in a technical field.

I will give you a few examples which you should be able to understand.



Don't insult me, since you know nothing about me. I asked you to prove it. Please. You have not proven simply extending an OCI in a logical scientific manner will harm an engine.

You wrote "short OCIs is going to produce more power, torque and efficiency," I want you to actually prove it, since "most of the public is not in a technical field."
 
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Originally Posted By: Artem
Yea that! ^ Screw the once a year [censored] and change it every 10K.


JUST TODAY I brought my GMC Sierra to the Amsoil rep who I buy oil from to have him analyze it, especially since my coolant is low with no visible leak.

Anyway, I got 8,000 miles on the ASL & EAO filter and ran it HARD towing a big boat a lot in the Spring, Summer & Fall for 1.5 years!

The analysis machine showed the oil is still in great shape, no wear metals, plenty of TBN left (and thank God, no coolant)!!
banana2.gif


So, yes, run it longer!





I'd urge you to actually look at his UOA, the circumstances and the oil's condition--then think a little more about the suggestion for him to "run it longer"... Your oil is in great shape at 8K, and that's wonderful. His oil is getting to the point where it's no longer suitable for use at 14K, with (presumably) significant top-ups due to the filter additions/swaps. They're hardly analogous situations.
 
Lets say at 300,000 miles you trade off you vehicle.the vehicle runs as good as can be expected. Yearly oil changes with syn oil or every 3 months with Jiffy lubes oil of choice. Does it matter?
 
When i bought my 05 S2000 used back in 07 i literally spent a good 4 months searching and went and test drove a good 8 cars which fit what i'm looking for before finally finding the car of my dreams at a small dealers lot with 10,000 miles on it. The oil on the dipstick was VERY black and i suspected that it probably was never changed. (oil filter was a pain to remove)

^having went through 8 cars from private sellers, asking them a ton of questions, i bought a car from a dealer with an unknown history. [/quote] Exactly what are you trying to tell us about yourself !!
 
It has nothing to do about me, simply that when you buy a car from a dealership, you don't know its history.

Buying from a private seller, esp the original owner is much better, you can ask maintenance related questions, etc.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom