AmsOil S2K 20w50 98 LS1

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quote:

Originally posted by Pablo:
Interesting oil choice for break-in.

It's interesting what Blackstone say about the oil being a diesel oil - where did they get that idea???


I have no idea where they came to that conclusion. Perhaps the S2K racing is basicaly the same as their diesel oil.

I did run 1,000 miles of dyno oil before switching over to the S2K.
 
Mike,

Unless you intend to race this motor for 500 miles at Talladega, the 20w-50 is MUCH too thick - I'd run the Series 2000, 0w-30 instead. Your oil temps will run 10F-20F cooler and you'll generate more power. The Series 2000 has been used since 1995 to run qualifying laps in Winston Cup racing, you not gonna overstress it w/ occasional autocrossing.

This engine isn't designed/toleranced to run a 20w-50 - when it comes to synlubes, thicker isn't always better. If you ask Terry Dyson, I think he'll tell you the same thing, and he'd probably recommend the Redline 5w-30 or 10w-30 as alternate choices ....
 
quote:

Originally posted by TooSlick:
Mike,

This engine isn't designed/toleranced to run a 20w-50 - when it comes to synlubes, thicker isn't always better. If you ask Terry Dyson, I think he'll tell you the same thing, and he'd probably recommend the Redline 5w-30 or 10w-30 as alternate choices ....


Interesting reply. I went with the 20w50 based on recomendations from here.

I'm not opposed to running the 0w30 if it is the right choice. I run open track events thou not AutoX. Typically Willow Springs or Cal Speedway.
 
Megabit, if you want to use a thick oil then maybe try Amsoil 10W-40 or 15W-40 since both oils are quite thick but significantly thinner than the Series 2000 20W-50. I think you will feel a noticeable improvement in performance with a thinner oil.

[ November 19, 2003, 05:03 PM: Message edited by: Sin City ]
 
I'd go with what Tooslick stated only in reverse order. Redline 5w-30 IMO is the best high end oil for racing. I think we have a lot of break in wear here. Nothing unusual for this type of engine. It will come down even if using the 20w-50. But like Tooslick said, it's too thick. Amsoil S2k is used in Winston Cup races and Mobil's highly touted 0w-30 R is used in many NASCARS and these engines push over 800HP so don't worry about a 30wt being to thin. It's how well the oil is made. Redline happens to be made very very well. .

[ November 19, 2003, 05:56 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Megabit:
-*-*-*
Looks to me like things are ok with it.
--*-**


Not to me, I'd go with much shorter OCI's. Much shorter. Maybe at least 1/2 or 1500 miles and do another sample... TOOOOOO much wear for my blood, to be happy.
 
This oil is not TOO thick. Flows quite well. He lives in Oceanside....I used the S2K 20W-50 the last TWO winters and zero issues and low wear.

The wear here is GM V8 break in metals. I just say it's kind of expensive oil for break in that's all.

I would go with a bit thinner dino oil until 20K miles and then switch back.

The "choking on this oil" is way over the top IMHO.
 
Everyone seems to think that a 50wt oil is like honey..

What people fail to realise is just how thick a 0W is when they start their cars up. Its still probably 5x thicker than a 50wt at operating temps.
 
I just got my first UOA back on my rebuilt LS1. The motor had 1,300 miles on it when I put the S2K in. I ran the S2K for 3,478 miles.

Looks to me like things are ok with it.

Here it is for comment:
 -


Mike
 
quote:

Originally posted by Leo:
Everyone seems to think that a 50wt oil is like honey..

What people fail to realise is just how thick a 0W is when they start their cars up. Its still probably 5x thicker than a 50wt at operating temps.


This is true, but also keep in mind that a 20w50 oil on cold startup is going to be considerably thicker than that 0w30 oil, so the hot viscosity isn't so much the problem as it's cold viscosity is. 20w is simply too thick. He should see better wear with a 5w40 or 0w40 over a 20w50.
 
Patman - I would agree IF he drove his car up to the snowy mountains. A 20W-X SYNTHETIC will flow fine in the AM in way southern coastal Cali.

It seemed to flow just fine for me in the teens.

Look up the numbers.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Pablo:
Patman - I would agree IF he drove his car up to the snowy mountains. A 20W-X SYNTHETIC will flow fine in the AM in way southern coastal Cali.

It seemed to flow just fine for me in the teens.

Look up the numbers.


I was speaking just in general though, not specifically in this case. It's just that for a good portion of the country, it does get cold enough, even in the fall and spring, that you'd be causing your engine more wear with a 20w50 oil compared to a 0w30, 5w30, 0w40, or 5w40. I certainly would not feel comfortable running a 20w50 in anything below 50 degrees. And definitely not in the winter. I personally believe 20w50 is a summer oil only, and only in extremely rare cases (such as a very old engine design with very loose clearances, or a race motor)
 
From Pat, man
wink.gif
:

not feel comfortable running a 20w50 in anything below 50 degrees

I might even agree with you if we are talking dino, but with syn this is just pure paranoia....

Don't get me wrong. First and foremost: R and FTM
I also agree a thicker oil doesn't carry heat away as well.....but let's not over do the thinner is better thing, that's all.
 
I think we blame oils to much when it's usually the engine that is the problem. Look at Mustang Cobra R's. They come with a 15w oil. In this case, I think it's a break in issue in an engine that always shows off the wall numbers. We put too much emphasis on oil sometimes. Most well tuned engines can run on any decent oil. Look at Toyotas and Suburas, they produce good wear #s with any oil. We are quick to blame the oil but I think it's the engine and the condition that it is in that really is to blame. Could very well be a viscosity issue too.
 
quote:

The builder told me that it was built to looser tolerances than stock.

I'd keep going with the 20w-50 then. If the tolerances are looser, then this oil is more ideal. I really think it's just break in. We never see great results with these engines, it's just the way they are, especially when new. I'm not saying thicker is better, in fact I usually say the opposite and would use RL 10w-30 is in this car, but I dont think it's the oil is what I'm saying. I could easily be wrong though.

Tooslick, I'd agree that the 15w M1 is a stronger oil, but why then is 10w-30 and 5w-30 found in Vipers and Vettes?

Also, S2k 0w-30 has a HT/HS of 3.4 and is only a 11.2 cSt oil. Not much higher then the M1 10w-30. S2k must then use a higher quality base stock.
dunno.gif
 
I guess the best advice we can give you here is to simply continue getting oil analysis done, and see how the engine wear numbers look on the next interval with 20w50. If it's still not to your liking, step down to 10w40 Amsoil and compare. Oil analysis is the only simple way to truly choose the proper viscosity of your oil, and even then, it may take 2-3 intervals with each viscosity to properly establish a trend.

One thing I forgot to mention, I'm surprised that copper isn't higher. I guess it's only high on factory fresh LS1s, not on aftermarket rebuilds. Interesting.
 
Hmmm.....I would use a good and thick 10W-30 for a two interval and then run the 20W-50 for two more intervals and compare.
Megabit,
On that other thread you inserted here you state your oil pressure is 20PSI when hot....that seems mighty low compared to my car......mine shows 45-50 all the time, hot or cold and goes into the high 70s at WOT, hot/cold...maybe the looser clearance is the cause of such low pressure?
BTW, I drive a 02 Z28, 6-speed
Rick
 
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