Amsoil S2K 0W-30 benefits???

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Can someone quickly summarize the benefits of Amsoil S2K 0W-30 vs. ASl/ATM and maybe even Redline.
I have Redline 5W-30 in my 2002 Suburban currently and it is in many ways the best oil I have had in there so far, but I am considering putting S2K in there for my next interval just because I have it sitting in my basement.

How do you feel about the vicosity of this oil vs. Redline 5W-30?
 
A few might disagree, but I think the majority on here would agree that S2k is over priced and over-rated. It's results havn't been too good. I would not run S2k over Redline at all. Redline improves with use so I wouldn't switch. It's also been clarified that some of the poor UOA's from Redline are not really wear metals. It's the best built oil on the market right now. S2k has better cold flow viscosity. Redline has a stronger base stock (POE group V) and better additive package (Moly). In fact, GC has been showing better numbers then S2K.

Amsoil's best oils IMO are 5w/10w-30 ASL/ATM and AME 15w-40. These oils are excellent buys. S2k is not a bad oil, but if your going to buy an oil over $6qt, you might as well buy Redline. Terry Dyson speaks highly of Redline.

[ November 25, 2003, 08:24 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
It has been reported by users with oil temp gauges that this oil run 10-20 degrees cooler than other synthetics. Just something I have read on this site.
 
Rarely do I disagree with Pablo, but I wouldn't switch back to S2k. Save if for another vehicle. Redline NEEDs continued use. In fact my UOA of it will be meaningless now that I switched back to ASL. If your wanting consitant results, stick with one oil, especially RL.
 
Interesting--I sell a fair amount of AMSOIL, and about half of it is the Series 2000 0w-30.
My son-in-law changed from AMSOIL 10W-30 to the 0W-30 shortly after it came out, and told me he gained between 50 and 75 miles per tankful (this after running for several months). Those (few) who keep mileage figures normally show 3-5% fuel savings.
I run the 0W-30 in 3 turbos and a Dodge van. The guy who works on my Saabs sells 5W-30 (and some 10W-30) in the shop, but runs 0W-30 in his own cars because he noted a difference.

For the extra $10 a year up front, I think it is well worth it.

Since you already have it in stock, it will cost you nothing to use it, and more than that to buy another load of Redline.
 
Being he is already using Redline, and that it takes consecutive runs with it as we have beat to death, why have him switch? Use it in another car. If you want the best fuel economy and better extended drains, then I could see going with S2k.

[ November 25, 2003, 10:12 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
What is so different (better?) about S2K 0W-30 compared to ASl and ATM that makes it more expensive??
 
quote:

Originally posted by **** in Falls Church:
My son-in-law changed from AMSOIL 10W-30 to the 0W-30 shortly after it came out, and told me he gained between 50 and 75 miles per tankful Those (few) who keep mileage figures normally show 3-5% fuel savings.

For the extra $10 a year up front, I think it is well worth it.


Well, I run it in one car. No difference in MPG over the 10W30. IN fact no difference in the UOA from the 10W30 that was previously in the same car. Only diff, which I cannot prove, is that it may be able to go longer between OCIs say 15,000 miles over the 10W30 which, IMO is in the 10-12,000 mile range.

IMO you are better off running the 10W and halfway through draining out a quart and replacing it, still much less expensive then the $2+ difference for the 0W. No difference in wear protection, maybe in MPG but that is questionable since both are 30W which is most of your driving, hot engine.
IMO save your money and go with the regular 5 or 10 W or the series 3000 5W30 diesel which has by far the better additive package and is the same price as the 0W,or $2+ over the 10W.

The 0w was promoted (hyped by Amsoil) as superior (more profit for them and the new kid on the block) but as noted, it has not shown to be superior in the UOA. I will have another 0W report in early Jan to compare

And, the $10/year diff, well, very very few drivers can run this out a full year. I do but it is only 10-12,000 miles. So the diff is really more like $20/year min.

[ November 25, 2003, 10:58 PM: Message edited by: Spector ]
 
buster, your right. Most of us run any oil we use for multiple changes and maybe UOA's too but RL most of us run once only as I did (sure went dark quickly). If finances improve I expect to go back to it after drum of BP Visco 5000 used up. RL 5W30 sure gave me the best economy but I bet Amsoil TSO would be even better. What is the vis @ 100C for S2000?
 
11.2 cst

quote:

Originally posted by sprintman:
buster, your right. Most of us run any oil we use for multiple changes and maybe UOA's too but RL most of us run once only as I did (sure went dark quickly). If finances improve I expect to go back to it after drum of BP Visco 5000 used up. RL 5W30 sure gave me the best economy but I bet Amsoil TSO would be even better. What is the vis @ 100C for S2000?

 
11.2 sure is thin but then Pennzoil 5W30 I have in now is 10.5 cSt so a step in the right direction. Same price as Redline but I may try this next winter (shame the dealer is the worlds worst) Tks...s
 
Alex D,

This is what I've observed in the eight years I've been selling and using the S2000, 0w-30. Most of my gas engine customers are running this oil or the S3000, 5w-30 in newer engines:

1) Provides better engine cleanliness than the 5w-30 and 10w-30, due to higher detergency

2) Provides a fuel savings of approx 2%-3% in comparison to the 10w-30 in short trip driving. I've also seen better mileage even on long trips. This really is engine dependant and YMMV. The extent of these gains is related to frictional losses in the valvetrain and the potential for fuel savings. OHC or DOHC engines with direct acting camshafts will show larger gains than pushrod engines with roller lifters.

3) Holds up slightly better than the 5w-30 over long drain intervals, particularly with regards to TBN retention.

4) Better cold weather performance than the 5w-30 or 10w-30.

5) Lower oil consumption than the 5w-30, even though the volatility is slightly higher in lab tests ....

I'd agree with **** ...90% of my customers are running annual oil changes of 12k-15k miles w/ the S2000 (without doing oil analysis). The price difference between the S2000 and regular 5w-30/10w-30 is about $12.00/year. That's five qts for the inital change and one qt added after the filter change at six months. Under most conditions, you'll save at least that much just in fuel if you keep careful records. For example, I ran the Amsoil 10w-30 for about five years in my Audi 100 and averaged 24 mpg. With the 0w-30 that jumped to a consistent 25 mpg - this is a multiple tank average using the trip computer and also calculated. I switched my new, 1997 Jetta GL to the Amsoil 0w-30 after 5000 miles and picked up 2 mpg - about a 7% gain in fuel efficiency. More importantly, the average fuel efficiency gain in going from a 10w-30 petroleum oil to the 0w-30 synlube is typically 3%-5%.

The only negative I've seen to running the 0w-30 is trying to run drain intervals > 15,000 miles in big V-8 engines. The combination of very high fuel consumption and the effect of the EGR valve will result in lots of oxidation/nitration. This can and will result in significant oil thickening over the course of a long drain interval. This is particularly true for short trip duty cycles, where the EGR valve is functioning a greater percentage of the time. In these specific applications, I prefer running the Series 3000, 5w-30 or the Amsoil 10w-40. The SL/CI-4 additive chemistries do better in these situations. I'd also run Delvac 1 over Mobil 1 for the same reason ....

Tooslick
Dixie Synthetics
 
quote:

The 0w was promoted (hyped by Amsoil) as superior (more profit for them and the new kid on the block) but as noted, it has not shown to be superior in the UOA.

I have to agree. I think this oil should be better for the price. I still think ASL/ATM show as good or better wear numbers consistantly. I know it's Amsoil's top shelf product, (although S3000 is) it's just not that good IMO. Amsoil makes many excellent oils that I think are a better choice. For fuel efficiency and temp. reductions, S2k is better.
smile.gif


Sprintman, the vis. is 11.4 @100c HT/HS 3.4.
smile.gif


[ November 26, 2003, 08:19 AM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
Redline is Cheaper then Amsoil S2K. IF you tell the Redline site supporter you are a member of bobistheoilguy you get a discount on the oil. THe S2K's margin of return over the older Amsoil products just is not their.

We have not seen alot of UOA on the S3K or the 20W50 S2k.

I would like to see you run Redline at least twice then do UOA but I am also practical. If you do not have another vechile that can use the Ow30 then just run it. IT would be silly to by more oil when you already have some that needs useing. You could use the S2K as a top up oil for all of you vechiles. You can also just add one quart to each vechile just to use it up if you choose to keep useing Redline!
 
JB,

New specs for the S3000 are posted on the Ams site ....

I've been using their synlubes since 1978 and this is the best engine oil they've ever made.... My neighbor now runs it in his 1994, 37' SeaRay (twin, 7.4L Mercruiser Inboards) in place of the 15w-40, HD diesel and marine oil (I thought the 15w-40 sheared too much). Top end speed has increased from 4400 to 4700 rpms and fuel consumption has been cut by 6.0% (compared to the 25w-40, Merc oil). Oil consumption is about 0.5 quarts in 30 hours at cruising speed. Mercury Marine recs for these engines are their 25w-40, straight 40wt or 20w-50.

TBN (ASTM D-4739)

S3000, 12.1

GC, 0w-30, 9.4
5w-30, Supersyn, 10.7
Redline 5w-30, 10.0
Synergyn 0w-20, 9.3

[ November 26, 2003, 02:38 PM: Message edited by: TooSlick ]
 
I changed the S2K 0W-30 into my 1994 T-Bird with the modular 4.6 SOHC V8 today (Had Mobil Drive Clean Plus 5W-30 Blend in there before). This will be a nice test. I have a feeling the SOHC likes a little thicker oil in order not to have the morning lifter/chain tensioner clatter that is so typical for these engines and to reduce oil consumption. On M1 10W-30 this summer it used oil like crazy (1qt./1000 mls.), on Mobil DC Plus Blend hardly any (1/4 qt. in 3000 miles) and GTX 10W-30 was in the middle. So far I had M1 10W-30, GTX 10W-30 and Drive Clean Plus Blend 5W-30 in there. So far the clatter and oil consumption was the least with the Mobil DC Plus Blend in 5W-30. Let's see how this oil does. We are going on a 1000 miles trip tomorrow (St. Louis,MO and back), so I'll know soon about consumption.

Decided last night to get Redline for the Burb again from Lisa Jo. So my wife's 2001 T/A and my 2002 Burb Z71 5.3 are running on the second OCI with Redline 5W-30 (love how it boosted the oil pressure consistenly by 5 lbs. over the M1 5W-30 I had in there before) and the T-Bird and my 96 Corvette are running on S2K TSO and 5W-30 ASL respectively.

Next spring the Vette will get Amsoil 10W-40 or Redline 5W-40 for the summer months.

[ November 26, 2003, 04:39 PM: Message edited by: Alex D ]
 
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