You ever heard of something called thinking at the margin? The point of diminishing returns. As in, PP may not be as good as the Amsoil, but it is still very good, and it is 1/7th the cost for oil that is near its equal. And for another 1/7th I can add a ton more moly and boron, which IMO, makes it even better than the amsoil.
AMSOIL or PP
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Originally Posted By: rudolphna
So excluding sales tax The total cost of this oil change should be ~$18
-$5 For the oil
-$6.50 for the Purolator PureOne
-$6.25 for the Lubri-Moly stuff. Not too bad
Drop the Lubri-Moly stuff. NOT NEEDED or IMO wanted.
Originally Posted By: elwaylite
BTW, you can join Amsoil for 6 months at $10, and get the Xl5w-20 for much cheaper.
You need to get new batteries for your calculator.
Spend the $10 and you still are at $5.20 BEFORE shipping. PP everyday is $4 a quart with shipping NOT needed. And we have not added in the cost of the PC.
Bill
So excluding sales tax The total cost of this oil change should be ~$18
-$5 For the oil
-$6.50 for the Purolator PureOne
-$6.25 for the Lubri-Moly stuff. Not too bad
Drop the Lubri-Moly stuff. NOT NEEDED or IMO wanted.
Originally Posted By: elwaylite
BTW, you can join Amsoil for 6 months at $10, and get the Xl5w-20 for much cheaper.
You need to get new batteries for your calculator.
Spend the $10 and you still are at $5.20 BEFORE shipping. PP everyday is $4 a quart with shipping NOT needed. And we have not added in the cost of the PC.
Bill
PP, XL... There’re both top notch blends of Group IIIs and other.
Both perform well on UOAs.
The Napa in question is charging more than suggested retail for the Amsoil XL.
If you go with XL get an Amsoil PC account and buy a case(12) of XL at a time - breaks down to $4.94 a quart.
Also, if you compare things like Noack Volatility, HT/HS, Viscosity Index, etc, you’ll see the XL has an edge over the PP.
Both perform well on UOAs.
The Napa in question is charging more than suggested retail for the Amsoil XL.
If you go with XL get an Amsoil PC account and buy a case(12) of XL at a time - breaks down to $4.94 a quart.
Also, if you compare things like Noack Volatility, HT/HS, Viscosity Index, etc, you’ll see the XL has an edge over the PP.
Originally Posted By: CompSyn
PP, XL... There’re both top notch blends of Group IIIs and other.
Both perform well on UOAs.
The Napa in question is charging more than suggested retail for the Amsoil XL.
If you go with XL get an Amsoil PC account and buy a case(12) of XL at a time - breaks down to $4.94 a quart.
Also, if you compare things like Noack Volatility, HT/HS, Viscosity Index, etc, you’ll see the XL has an edge over the PP.
Great post. The difference at PC cost is what, less than half a tank of fuel and you fill up how often?
PP, XL... There’re both top notch blends of Group IIIs and other.
Both perform well on UOAs.
The Napa in question is charging more than suggested retail for the Amsoil XL.
If you go with XL get an Amsoil PC account and buy a case(12) of XL at a time - breaks down to $4.94 a quart.
Also, if you compare things like Noack Volatility, HT/HS, Viscosity Index, etc, you’ll see the XL has an edge over the PP.
Great post. The difference at PC cost is what, less than half a tank of fuel and you fill up how often?
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Spend the $10 and you still are at $5.20 BEFORE shipping. PP everyday is $4 a quart with shipping NOT needed. And we have not added in the cost of the PC.
Bill
You just did.
Shipping does add less than a buck a quart, but the store run uses fuel, too. Plus wear on the car. Face it, the cost difference won't keep you from retirement.
Spend the $10 and you still are at $5.20 BEFORE shipping. PP everyday is $4 a quart with shipping NOT needed. And we have not added in the cost of the PC.
Bill
You just did.
Shipping does add less than a buck a quart, but the store run uses fuel, too. Plus wear on the car. Face it, the cost difference won't keep you from retirement.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
You just did.
Shipping does add less than a buck a quart, but the store run uses fuel, too. Plus wear on the car. Face it, the cost difference won't keep you from retirement.
True but I'm already at Wal-Mart once a week at the minimum doing other shopping.
But also responding to the mindset that if someone trys to save money they are a cheap skate. (or what got his post deleted)
If you want to spend the money great, but don't call members who save their $$ cheap. In the end we all are here to get our engines well protected down the road.
Take care, Bill
You just did.
Shipping does add less than a buck a quart, but the store run uses fuel, too. Plus wear on the car. Face it, the cost difference won't keep you from retirement.
True but I'm already at Wal-Mart once a week at the minimum doing other shopping.
But also responding to the mindset that if someone trys to save money they are a cheap skate. (or what got his post deleted)
If you want to spend the money great, but don't call members who save their $$ cheap. In the end we all are here to get our engines well protected down the road.
Take care, Bill
I find it funny that people think that AMSOIL's group III product is only good enough for a 7-8k mile interval when OLMs like the one in my Fit are telling driver's not to change basic conventional until out past 10k miles in many cases.
Originally Posted By: BrianWC
I find it funny that people think that AMSOIL's group III product is only good enough for a 7-8k mile interval when OLMs like the one in my Fit are telling driver's not to change basic conventional until out past 10k miles in many cases.
Depends on the app. Unlike the excellent OLM that your Fit has other engines have to go with xx miles due to this operating condition.
I'd have no problems following the OLM with ANY SL/SM oil no matter what type. I wished my Subaru and Toyota had them.
Since they don't UOAs are the only way to make sure you are getting the most for the $$ spent on oil. Most don't do that step so they suggest the xx miles OCI.
Most are shorter than should be because its better to be safe and under estimate.
Just think of the oil that would be saved if every engine had a OLM! (of course, then the average person would still short change it like most BITOGers we see here)
I've stated it here before, if all oil was priced the same I would be running Amsoil XL oils. I really think they are excellent.
Take care, Bill
I find it funny that people think that AMSOIL's group III product is only good enough for a 7-8k mile interval when OLMs like the one in my Fit are telling driver's not to change basic conventional until out past 10k miles in many cases.
Depends on the app. Unlike the excellent OLM that your Fit has other engines have to go with xx miles due to this operating condition.
I'd have no problems following the OLM with ANY SL/SM oil no matter what type. I wished my Subaru and Toyota had them.
Since they don't UOAs are the only way to make sure you are getting the most for the $$ spent on oil. Most don't do that step so they suggest the xx miles OCI.
Most are shorter than should be because its better to be safe and under estimate.
Just think of the oil that would be saved if every engine had a OLM! (of course, then the average person would still short change it like most BITOGers we see here)
I've stated it here before, if all oil was priced the same I would be running Amsoil XL oils. I really think they are excellent.
Take care, Bill
Part of my post did get deleted; yepp the truth hurts.
Most people here now are either blindly brand loyal, or too cheap to care and just looking for a deal. It's quite entertaining, that 90% of the knowledgeable and honest people left this place.
I think I'll go back to lurking and laughing...
Most people here now are either blindly brand loyal, or too cheap to care and just looking for a deal. It's quite entertaining, that 90% of the knowledgeable and honest people left this place.
I think I'll go back to lurking and laughing...
Yep, I realize it's app dependent. I wouldn't have even run Redline or Amsoil out much past 5k in my 9-5.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: BrianWC
I find it funny that people think that AMSOIL's group III product is only good enough for a 7-8k mile interval when OLMs like the one in my Fit are telling driver's not to change basic conventional until out past 10k miles in many cases.
Depends on the app. Unlike the excellent OLM that your Fit has other engines have to go with xx miles due to this operating condition.
I'd have no problems following the OLM with ANY SL/SM oil no matter what type. I wished my Subaru and Toyota had them.
Since they don't UOAs are the only way to make sure you are getting the most for the $$ spent on oil. Most don't do that step so they suggest the xx miles OCI.
Most are shorter than should be because its better to be safe and under estimate.
Just think of the oil that would be saved if every engine had a OLM! (of course, then the average person would still short change it like most BITOGers we see here)
I've stated it here before, if all oil was priced the same I would be running Amsoil XL oils. I really think they are excellent.
Take care, Bill
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: BrianWC
I find it funny that people think that AMSOIL's group III product is only good enough for a 7-8k mile interval when OLMs like the one in my Fit are telling driver's not to change basic conventional until out past 10k miles in many cases.
Depends on the app. Unlike the excellent OLM that your Fit has other engines have to go with xx miles due to this operating condition.
I'd have no problems following the OLM with ANY SL/SM oil no matter what type. I wished my Subaru and Toyota had them.
Since they don't UOAs are the only way to make sure you are getting the most for the $$ spent on oil. Most don't do that step so they suggest the xx miles OCI.
Most are shorter than should be because its better to be safe and under estimate.
Just think of the oil that would be saved if every engine had a OLM! (of course, then the average person would still short change it like most BITOGers we see here)
I've stated it here before, if all oil was priced the same I would be running Amsoil XL oils. I really think they are excellent.
Take care, Bill
I just got a Subaru OBW (H6) & have no idea as to it's service history.
I'm getting ready to change ALL the fluids, but am unsure about brands.
I want a good product, but I don't want to use something that'll be overkill for it.
It's a work/vacation vehicle...work meaning 425 miles/week all 2 lane roads, 6 stop signs & 4 traffic lights. Vacation meaning usually 1000 mile round trip...usually to east TN.
Is Amsoil overkill for me? Will PP be as good?
I'm getting ready to change ALL the fluids, but am unsure about brands.
I want a good product, but I don't want to use something that'll be overkill for it.
It's a work/vacation vehicle...work meaning 425 miles/week all 2 lane roads, 6 stop signs & 4 traffic lights. Vacation meaning usually 1000 mile round trip...usually to east TN.
Is Amsoil overkill for me? Will PP be as good?
I am using PP in my 2k9 Outback. I am using the 5w-40 European. Great oil as I drive 100+ miles a day. I am going to switch to 5w-30 PP though. Easier to find and it will probably give me a touch better gas mileage.
I realize it's a good price now w/rebates & all, but how does it rank among all the synthetics out there?
actually the synthetics are all so good that you will scarcely be able to tell the difference.
It has been noted before that some of those Subie motors are hard on oil. Since your OLM is set up for Dino, run any name brand synth and take it all the way out till the OLM sez, that gives a huge margin of safety.
It has been noted before that some of those Subie motors are hard on oil. Since your OLM is set up for Dino, run any name brand synth and take it all the way out till the OLM sez, that gives a huge margin of safety.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
actually the synthetics are all so good that you will scarcely be able to tell the difference.
It has been noted before that some of those Subie motors are hard on oil. Since your OLM is set up for Dino, run any name brand synth and take it all the way out till the OLM sez, that gives a huge margin of safety.
I agree with this whole heartedly. Keep synthetic in that Subie and you will have no worries concerning your oil.
actually the synthetics are all so good that you will scarcely be able to tell the difference.
It has been noted before that some of those Subie motors are hard on oil. Since your OLM is set up for Dino, run any name brand synth and take it all the way out till the OLM sez, that gives a huge margin of safety.
I agree with this whole heartedly. Keep synthetic in that Subie and you will have no worries concerning your oil.
Since they're running a deal on the Pennzoil (basically free AR & coupon @ AAP), would I be making a bad decision to use it?
Amsoil recommends a flush if one is converting from dino to synthetic...is that just their recommendation or do all oil manufacturers state that?
Amsoil recommends a flush if one is converting from dino to synthetic...is that just their recommendation or do all oil manufacturers state that?
Subarus do NOT have a OLM. Or a mileage monitor.
Just a 3750 mile MAX OCI if you have a turbo (PERIOD) or 7,500 miles or 6 month / 3750 miles /4 months if severe use.
NA Subarus are NOT hard on oil, in fact very easy on them. The H6 is a little harder but still will last many many miles on anything.
I'd recommend syn fluids in the driveline and pretty well any API rated SL/SM 5w-30 oil in the engine.
That is what I've done. I've used Syn in the engine for the first few OCIs and also conventional. The UOAs and how the engine operates is the same with either.
No flush is needed. There is not that much difference between oils as long as they follow common sense OCIs.
Take care, bill
Just a 3750 mile MAX OCI if you have a turbo (PERIOD) or 7,500 miles or 6 month / 3750 miles /4 months if severe use.
NA Subarus are NOT hard on oil, in fact very easy on them. The H6 is a little harder but still will last many many miles on anything.
I'd recommend syn fluids in the driveline and pretty well any API rated SL/SM 5w-30 oil in the engine.
That is what I've done. I've used Syn in the engine for the first few OCIs and also conventional. The UOAs and how the engine operates is the same with either.
No flush is needed. There is not that much difference between oils as long as they follow common sense OCIs.
Take care, bill
Mine's the H6.
I'm just trying to figure out whether to go w/Amsoil or PP.
If the PP ($5/qt.) is as good as Amsoil ($6.75 + S&H), i'll use it to save on S & H from ordering online.
I'm just trying to figure out whether to go w/Amsoil or PP.
If the PP ($5/qt.) is as good as Amsoil ($6.75 + S&H), i'll use it to save on S & H from ordering online.
Originally Posted By: JGKC9AYC
Mine's the H6.
I'm just trying to figure out whether to go w/Amsoil or PP.
If the PP ($5/qt.) is as good as Amsoil ($6.75 + S&H), i'll use it to save on S & H from ordering online.
Really NO difference in that engine. (and most others)
If you want to go with Amsoil I'd REALLY support a site sponsor here. All the guys here are straight shooters and have my trust.
Take care, Bill
Mine's the H6.
I'm just trying to figure out whether to go w/Amsoil or PP.
If the PP ($5/qt.) is as good as Amsoil ($6.75 + S&H), i'll use it to save on S & H from ordering online.
Really NO difference in that engine. (and most others)
If you want to go with Amsoil I'd REALLY support a site sponsor here. All the guys here are straight shooters and have my trust.
Take care, Bill
Well picked up the 5QT PP 5W-30 jug from walmart today. Now need to go to NAPA and pick up that moly stuff(its on sale buy 1 get 1 free) and then AAP for the PureOne filter. Then I stick it on the shelf and wait till the end of october. 
EDIT> Oh and what would a good OCI be on PP with a P1 filter? I was thinking 5-6k miles.
EDIT> Oh and what would a good OCI be on PP with a P1 filter? I was thinking 5-6k miles.
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