Amsoil HDD--07 4runner--9731 miles

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Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas
You are correct. The wife drives 1 mile to work, then way too many short drives here and there. The oil doesn't have a chance to warm up fully; most of the time.


You stated you drove it 80% HW miles?? So in other words that # is off. That is quite an important detail.
 
Those short hops are killers. IMO there should be 3 categories of service: Normal Service, Severe Service, and Ultra Severe Service where frequent short trips such as one mile hops should fall under Ultra Severe Service category. Cases like that a 4 month OCI might be the ticket. Three categories might eliminate help to eliminate any confusion. Pablo laid out a pretty good OCI for the OP. JMO
 
Yeah short trips are brutal on motor oil. Change more often. Try the XL. Good value.
 
Even though I use only M1 oils, I don't believe Amsoil is your problem. Too many UOAs have been posted here showing very good results with various engines. As Pablo said, silicon may be the problem.
 
Pablo has a good read on this - excessive dirt and extreme short trips are killing this oil. Nothing lasts long in that scenario.
 
Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas
You are correct. The wife drives 1 mile to work, then way too many short drives here and there. The oil doesn't have a chance to warm up fully; most of the time.


With this driving pattern, I wouldn't bother with a synthetic oil. Buy the cheapest API rated dino oil and change it every 3000 miles. And, as recommended, change your air filter.
 
I'd recommend any name brand dino oil in the viscosity recommended by the manufacturer. Change it every 2000 - 3000 miles. The detergents will clean up the engine over time.
 
I have a Toyota 4Runner V6 "06" and I have sent out a few oil samples to be tested and all have looked much better then this running synthetic oil but not as long as your run. After the first test run I did at 80,000 miles and 6,000 miles on the oil it looked good but the oil's TBN was quite low. After looking into it and asking the right people I found out that this V6 is quite hard on oil! Although all my oil tests looked good I never ran the oil over 6,000 miles and the TBN was always on the low side. I now have 120,000 miles on mine and also have varnish on the inside of the fill neck and have had it for quite some time. I say if running Dino oil stick with 3,000mi and nothing over 6K for synthetic in this V6.
 
The concept of (relatively minor) silicone ingress beating down the TBN is new to me. Can anyone explain that?

3Toyotas: Do you know which TBN test was used, ASTM 2896 or ASTM 4739? The former will yield a number 1-2 points higher than the latter. The latter is preferred and generally more accurate for used samples.

Also, what is your city driving cycle like? Is it very short (coupla miles) hops without full warmup or is it stop and go over a longer distance/period? The oxidation and nitration numbers were high, so you have some adverse chemical reactions going on there.

Silicon is not super high, but you will want to thoroughly check your air filtration system for leaks. What sort of filter is used in the TRD setup? I know SLC has pretty gritty air quality sometimes, so a filter like an oiled cotton gauze type may not be up to the job. If that's what you have, you my look for a foam sock for it to improve its filtration. Or a better filter altogether.

Ultimately, it's likely a situation of the engine and the driving situation severely beating up the oil and the vehicle owner will be forced to adjust the OCI lower no matter what oil is used. Kinda surprised the HDD didn't do better but it is what it is.

FYI- I did the first 10K run of my life (me or my truck, for that matter) on the previous SL formulation/generation Royal Purple 5W20 (see below) but I have a near perfect driving environment with almost no short hops. Some would say RP is a "lesser" oil but it did fantastic.

RP 10K test

I suppose the lesson in contrasting the two oils is that driving evnviroment and engine type can mean a lot.
 
I don't know what test they used for the TBN. Whatever OAI uses i would assume.

City driving short hops without full warm up, is the way the wife drives it.

The TRD filter is a K&N type filter, but has proven to do just fine in my Tundra with SI levels in the low teens. I'll have a better idea shortly when i run a sample on it, how it compares.
 
Well, there you have it. Short hops and few full warmups. Taken in that context, the oil did REALLY well. Be happy! The additives were used up keeping the acids down... they were doing their jobs.

I honestly don't see why you couldn't do another 9K run on HDD, or some other top notch oil. You weren't in any danger zone based on that report, you had just gotten the "last measure of devotion" from that oil. To me, that's success. You get your value out of it and change it before you reach the danger zone.

I'd bet a lot of the bad stuff happened over winter. It's probably too much to ask of your wife to use a block heater (it would be of mine ( : < ) but that would get it about halfway to warmup before the engine was even started. PITA, though, especially for a non-gearhead. A radiator muff perhaps? Basically things that would get the engine up to temp faster would be a help but you have to be practical.

As to the air filter, the silicon level is cautionary. It seems a bit higher because you made a 9+K run. Still worth a double check of the sealing and maybe a foam sock to improve filtration.

Thanks for posting an interesting and educational UOA!
 
I've looked at a number of Amsoil UOA's and Si always seems to be high in most of them. My UOA with ASL 5-30 in my 2007 V6 Nissan Xterra also had a high Si count and low TBN with 8,400 miles and 11 months. I even ran Amsoil's air filter. Any thoughts? After I run out of ASL I'll probly run a good dino and change it twice per yr.
 
Im really glad I found this website....besides the fact that I lose sleep thinking about oil and oil related topics now. Im more of a stalker than a poster because I have no business replying when I didnt know anything about oil until I started reading up here. Sometimes I think the science gets a little out of hand on here though. If you can afford a nice vehicle you can afford to "waste" oil as everyone calls it on here...who really needs to stretch out 14-50 dollars that much to the point where it can harm your vehicle. I had a 97 4runner that had 91XXX on it when I bought it while stationed at camp lejeune. It got whatever high mileage 5w30 looked the coolest and a fram filter every 2800-3800 miles and when i traded it in it had 301,000 miles on it and they gave me $3500 for it. Could I have saved 15 extra dollars a year by running the oil until it was in cardiac arrest? Sure. My 2011 Z71 gets PP and Im switching to a pure1 filter from an ACdelco my next change and the truck will get ultra when the warranty expires, my OLM says I can go almost 7000 OCI, I change it at 4500 for the peace of mind. Use the money you spend on UOAs to get an extra oil change a year and sleep better at night.
 
Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas
Am i just SOL in thinking i could go longer with such a high quality oil?

Is 9k miles the longest i can go?
Yeah,you are. It is what it is. Run a shorter oci and go back to an oem AF. Change the AF just before you change the oil. Continue to use a good synthetic. Good luck.
 
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
You ran 50,000 miles on this oil? And what is Amsoil HDD?


No, that's total miles on the vehicle. HDD =Heavy Duty Diesel.


Isn't the TRD air filter Toyotas version of the K&N? That could be all or part of your high silicon count, eh?
 
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