Amsoil Euro 0W-30 10K mi, 2017 CRV 1.5T - FUEL!

Tesla has a trade-in program, in case DW wants one. From what I understand, Tesla wants complete order online, pay non-refundable deposit and then at some point before the pickup, enter the trade-in VIN and details and they will make an offer good for 30 days/1,000 miles

Several of our neighbors have done this with various previous model cars/trucks.
Other that purchasing and installing a home charger and also the mobile adapter, appears to be a simple procedure.
 
Bought my daughter a new 2016 Civic with the 1.5t engine to go off to college in. School was in northern WV and she sent several pictures of it totally covered in snow drifts for weeks at a time. When she brought it home with less than 4k miles on it the oil level was an inch over full. Talk about fuel dilution. That was to be expected though with the cold weather and short trips around the small college town. Definitely got better after breaking the engine in but always kept oci at 5k and had 130k miles on it when I sold it over the summer and still running fine.
 
In what way? The oil did the best it could. I mean gasoline GREATER THAN 5%. 10,063 miles. Little turbo.
Wouldn’t shorter OCIs drain the octane contaminated oil out sooner, while fuel percentage is still in the 2s or 3s and therefor not be a problem at the end of the day?

Seems like after 10k miles, the concentration of fuel has increased high enough to be a problem.

Perhaps shorter OCIs is the answer for these pathetic engines??? 🤔🤷🏻‍♂️
 
Ouch! 😬 I’m sure the next vehicle you get will not have direct injection! 😳
Getting hard to find …

Absolutely nothing wrong with Direct Injection engines, if it’s designed properly and works as it should (not plagued with design defects) 🤷🏻‍♂️

I owe two… 2013 GMC Acadia & a 2014 Mazda 3. Both Di. No fuel issues in my UOA. 🤷🏻‍♂️

@Pablo simply bought and owns an absolute TURD of an engine. Honda should be ashamed of themselves for producing this pathetic 💩box
 
The dipstick never showed over filled, never moved.

Anyway - some updates:
1) I made contact with UMH, account set up, sample received Nov 6, working on it now
2) I reached out to OAI, to get the report straightened up. I had told them it was Euro 0W-30, EOT not sure how they missed that. Seemed odd to me, but seen this before. I went in and was able to enter it myself.
3) I asked OAI if could run a TAN (probably not) and asked virgin Oxi and Nit. numbers, just to see.
4) Now here is something odd, I took a look at the engine and hoses with bright lighting, nothing that I could spot. I popped open the air box and it was really clean on the engine side (well visibly clean FWIW), but the dirty side was absolutely solid mass of black, hard crap, I didn't want to fondle it too much, but I've never seen one of my car air filters get a hard crust like that, especially under 20K miles (around 17K on this filter!). I replaced it with a $20 MicroGard. I'm not say this will make any difference, but back in the day I would say serious restriction. The wife thought the lack of perf was the new tires. I have not told her, so let's see what she says.

Honda made a decent engine, mechanically - but Honda fuel control, wiring, logic and support suck IMHO.
 
4) Now here is something odd, I took a look at the engine and hoses with bright lighting, nothing that I could spot. I popped open the air box and it was really clean on the engine side (well visibly clean FWIW), but the dirty side was absolutely solid mass of black, hard crap, I didn't want to fondle it too much, but I've never seen one of my car air filters get a hard crust like that, especially under 20K miles (around 17K on this filter!). I replaced it with a $20 MicroGard. I'm not say this will make any difference, but back in the day I would say serious restriction.
The dealer air filters are oiled. Since the filter element is small, in conjunction with the oil, they get loaded very quickly.
The aftermarket filters do not dirty up as quickly....probably because they're also less efficient.
 
The dealer air filters are oiled. Since the filter element is small, in conjunction with the oil, they get loaded very quickly.
The aftermarket filters do not dirty up as quickly....probably because they're also less efficient.
It was a Honda OEM filter, I definitely didn't notice it was oiled. But that makes sense. I cannot say just looking at the load, for sure it was restrictive, but sure was clay like. As in the oil was slowly replaced with water, then the water and the trapped dirt and junk made a clay like substance. It wasn't greasy like a loaded oiled filter , just hard crud. I will watch this China filter, maybe pull an oil sample in a 1000 miles or so.
 
Wrong. The last year of the 1.8L R18 was 2015. In 2016 it came with either a 2.0L engine with port injection (which mine has) or a 1.5L turbo with direct injection.

Get YOUR story straight 🙄
The 2.0L is great. Can't go wrong with that engine. Wonder why they couldn't have just added more power to that engine rather than make the 1.5T?
 
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The 2.0L is great. Can't go wrong with that engine. Wonder why they couldn't have just added more power to that engine rather than make the 1.5T?
I agree! Honda could have saved themselves a lot of trouble by just using the 2.0 in a lot of the vehicles that use the 1.5T. And the 2.0 is a very efficient and more reliable engine too. You would think after all these years they would have learned that 🫤
 
I agree! Honda could have saved themselves a lot of trouble by just using the 2.0 in a lot of the vehicles that use the 1.5T. And the 2.0 is a very efficient and more reliable engine too. You would think after all these years they would have learned that 🫤
Strongly disagree. Honda needed a competitive powertrain option for their entire global portfolio that was suitable for economy and entry level luxury applications. The 2.0L NA is ok for economy cars and some hybrids, but wouldn’t be a very competitive engine option for their CUV and entry-level luxury vehicles.
 
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