Mobil 1 HM 5W-30, 6199mi, 02 Intrepid 2.7L

Messages
5
Location
Chicago, IL
Have had this vehicle since 2003, purchased from CarMax with 246 miles (first car after college), so someone else took the hit on the initial depreciation. Learned early on, post purchase, of 'issues' with this particular platform. As such, consulted with a Chrysler fleet mechanic friend who advised to keep unit on a strictly synthetic oil regimen. Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 used from 2003 to 2015. In addition, also learned that platform was essentially built around the cooling system. Hence coolant used was always 'Mopar 5 Year Antifreeze', and always diluted 50/50 with distilled water. Drained and filled coolant every 2 to 3 years, more often as the car aged. In Sep 2014, all valve cover seals were replaced owing to some very minor seepage I was starting to see. While I had the top-end apart, I also took the opportunity to replace all the intake manifold seals. This was done because when I would wash the engine, I would noticed it idling rougher when water was sprayed around the manifold. This went away with the new seals, and torquing to service manual specifications. Hence the bump in Silicon in the testing history. I skipped the last years test as a 'wash-out / control' period to eliminate contaminants from the test results. Since 2015 switched to Mobil 1 HM 5W-30, mostly to keep seals throughout happy. Interestingly, some small variances in wear appear at the 2015 vs. 2014 junction. Wondering if these are indicative of the different oil formulations used, or within statistical tolerances. Very few issues with this car honestly, it's been the family workhorse (even AC still works very well). With little kids, there's a certain freedom to having an older car. I'm fully aware of the 'sketchiness' of the 2.7L, and actively try to stay ahead of it. Compared to my first car, an 82 Buick Regal that required an engine replacement at ~50k mi, and had an apparent biodegradable cooling system, this car has been a night vs. day improvement. Now that I'm nearing 80k mi, I realize that I'm nearing the statistical death zone of the water pump. The car has a little rust, owing to Chicago winters, but nothing earth shattering. My hope would be to keep it through next year, possibly a little longer (wife allowing), then gift it to some school age family member and trade up to a 18 or 19 Hybrid Acura MDX. From these results, does anyone see any red-flags with respect to wear:
Code:
MI/HR on Oil		6,199		UNIT / LOCATION AVERAGES	6,304		4,129				
MI/HR on Unit		78,895		 				67,194		60,890				UNIVERSAL AVERAGES
Sample Date		8/7/2017		 			6/1/2015	4/26/2014				 
Make Up Oil Added	1.25 qts		 			1 qt		1 qt				
								
ALUMINUM		8		5				4		3				3
CHROMIUM		1		1				1		1				0
IRON			22		20				23		15				15
COPPER			14		14				14		13				13
LEAD			0		0				0		0				0
TIN			0		0				0		0				1
MOLYBDENUM		92		87				86		83				74
NICKEL			1		1				1		0				0
MANGANESE		3		2				1		1				3
SILVER			0		0				0		0				0
TITANIUM		0		0				0		0				0
POTASSIUM		1		2				4		0				2
BORON			43		37				31		38				54
SILICON			19		48				113		11				11
SODIUM			12		13				26		2				47
CALCIUM			1092		1070				1011		1106				2030
MAGNESIUM		856		784				729		768				145
PHOSPHORUS		904		758				666		704				693
ZINC			1117		925				839		818				807
BARIUM			0		0				0		0				1
Code:
			8/7/2017		Values Should Be*	6/1/2015	4/26/2014
SUS Viscosity @ 210°F	63.7			56-63			59.1		56.2
cSt Viscosity @ 100°C	11.25			9.1-11.3		9.96		9.11
Flashpoint in °F	410			>365			395		435
Fuel %			<0.5			<2.0			<0.5		<0.5
Antifreeze %		0.0			0.0			?		0.0
Water %			0.0			<0.1			0.0		0.0
Insolubles %		0.2			<0.6			0.1		0.3
TBN			2.5			>1.0			3.2	
Most recent Blackstone comments: Replacing the valve cover seals and intake manifold gaskets would certainly account for the high silicon in the last report. Silicon dropped way down to 19 ppm , so we don't have any concerns about dirt infiltration. Sodium also came down to a normal level so that last reading was just an anomaly and not due to a coolant leak. Wear is in great shape, with metals holding steady. The TBN is still good at 2.5, so try 8,000 miles next. We haven't seen that specific Acura model yet, but if the engine is like the 3.5L Earth Dreams (plus hybrid), it should be a good one.
 

sirronin

Thread starter
Messages
5
Location
Chicago, IL
For anyone interested, here is the 'mostly' full service history on this vehicle: August 07, 2017 78895 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed. Drain and refill cooling system July 29, 2017 78484 Miles Brake booster replaced October 29, 2016 74598 Miles Brake fluid replaced and bled Drain and refill cooling system Wipers Changed July 30, 2016 72696 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed. Power steering fluid reservoir drain / fill (x3) July 15, 2016 72229 Miles Transmission Shift Solenoid Pack replaced April 14, 2016 71760 Miles Coolant reservoir replaced. March 31, 2016 71402 Miles Oil Pressure Sensor, Oil Filter replaced Oil topped off July 27, 2015 67822 Miles Cam Position Sensor replaced July 17, 2015 67692 Miles Evaporation Control Canister replaced June 01, 2015 67194 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed UOA run (Blackstone Labs) August 21, 2014 61257 Miles Brake fluid replaced and bled July 25, 2014 61197 Miles Front driver side front bearing assembly replaced. Rotated tires. May 24, 2014 60936 Miles Differential gear oil changed Front brake pads and rotors replaced April 26, 2014 60890 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed UOA run (Blackstone Labs) Coolant outlet connector replaced. Coolant reservoir replaced. Coolant retained, system bled of air bubbles. Engine degreased January 22, 2014 58929 Miles Wipers Changed January 12, 2014 58600 Miles Oxygen sensor (Bank 1/Sensor 2) changed - NGK 23133 Nov 02, 2013 57309 Miles Spark plugs changed (NGK Iridiums) EGR valve hose replaced with non-molded tubing Add power steering fluid Oct 29, 2013 57236 Miles Flush and refill cooling system Transmission fluid drained and refilled. Oct 05, 2013 56761 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed K&N Air Filter washed and re-oiled Aug 02, 2013 55210 Miles Rear brake pad and rotors replaced Driver window motor replaced Sep 22, 2012 50925 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed Aug 31, 2011 48210 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed K&N Air Filter washed and re-oiled Replaced 2 front tires with Bridgestone Potenza G019s, best of remaining rotated to rear axle. July 03, 2011 Warranty replacement of existing Diehard Platinum battery with comparable unit. June 12, 2010 46915 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed July 11, 2009 45323 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed December 5, 2008 Replaced battery with Diehard Platinum battery September 13, 2008 43017 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed March 02, 2008 Wipers Changed October 20, 2007 40706 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed (switched to K&N Gold Oil Filter) K&N Air Filter washed and re-oiled Front brake pads and rotors replaced Rear brake pads replaced April 21, 2007 38804 Miles Replaced all 4 tires with Bridgestone Potenza G009s Front-end alignment March 10, 2007 38489 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed June 6, 2006 35253 Miles Air filter replaced with K&N 33-2136 May 29, 2006 34964 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed, Engine Degreased January 28, 2005 32969 Miles Flush and refill cooling system October 1, 2005 30216 Miles Transmission fluid drained and refilled. Front and rear brake pads replaced. Rotated tires. August 27, 2005 29957 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed, Bolt Changed, Air Filter Changed, Wipers Changed January 29, 2005 24805 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed August 8, 2004 19891 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed Air Filter Changed March 8, 2004 14910 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed November 22, 2003 9937 Miles Oil Changed, Filter Changed Air Filter Changed
 
Messages
4,671
Location
MN
That's an SN Mobil1 5w30 HM oil, so I can't figure out why Blackstone claims its got illegally-high levels of phosphorus and zinc. Honestly, I'm starting not to trust Blackstone's numbers anymore. They messed up some M1 Annual Protection VOA's recently even after re-doing. That said, IF Blackstone's numbers on Aluminum are correct, thats too far off the universal averages. Bearings are starting to wear more. Iron up some too. These are not actionable items anyway. Nothing you can do. No coolant in oil, and silicon (air filter dust) isn't alarming. Always worth checking to see if your airbox is tight. Another detail: You couldn't have used M1 EP in 2003 and 2004 since it first debuted in 2005. No biggie. You must have used regular M1 or something way, way back then. Who can remember that far back anyway? " I bought one of the first Intrepid's in 1992 with the old 3.3L pushrod. Always good handling, those LH platforms. Roomy. 'Cab-forward', Baby! Back then, Mobil1 changed once a year.
 

pbm

Messages
8,952
Location
New York
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
I bought one of the first Intrepid's in 1992 with the old 3.3L pushrod. Always good handling, those LH platforms. Roomy. 'Cab-forward', Baby! Back then, Mobil1 changed once a year.
The 3.3 was a much better engine than the 2.7, IMO...I still see them running with 200K plus miles. If that were my Intrepid, I'd try something with more viscosity like 0w40 M1 or Castrol and see if it helps those UOA numbers.
 
Messages
16,459
Location
N.H, U.S.A.
Interesting comment on the "illegally high" phos. I thought I read that in 5w30 and 10w30 flavours of of API SM they had to meet 800 ppm phos limit. Only Non certified and C services can be higher.
 

sirronin

Thread starter
Messages
5
Location
Chicago, IL
As if jinx'ed, the water pump was mentioned and so the weep hole started to rather liberally drip coolant this last Sunday. Oil in the mechanicals appears to be uncontaminated, with no 'milk-shake' to be seen yet. Reservoir dropped only about 1in below MAX, but remained well above MIN fill. Also coolant temp never exceeded 1/4 on the temp gauge, so likely no overheating occurred. Taking it in for water pump replacement this coming Thursday. Usually I'd do work like this myself, but reviewing the Factory Service Manual, I'll happily admit that this job is above my pay grade. 1. Conceptually, could someone please explain the sealing mechanism in such a water pump unit? With flow out of the unit via the weep passage, but no oil infiltration into the crankcase yet, I assume multiple levels of gasketing / sealing. 2. Calling around, most places, including the local Dodge dealer, are mentioning that water pump and guides are all that really need to be replaced. The overall contention is that the chain is really good to go as-is without replacement (unless obviously stretched). Dealership went so far as mentioning that these chains should last in the 200k mi range. Additionally, their shop staff really prefer to leave the original chains in place. Problem Statement - I WANT TO KEEP THIS CAR 1 OR 2 MORE YEARS, THEN BUY A REPLACEMENT. What should success look like here mechanically, being that they'll already have the unit extensively disassembled. What can be skipped, and what is essential? I'm looking for good enough, not trying to live the fantasy that this car can really be improved. Also, planning on draining oil and replacing filter after this work completes.
 
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