Amsoil Dominator Series- Questions Amsoil reps??

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The new Amsoil News noted the new Dominator racing series of oils. They have additional zinc and phosphorus etc.

However, no where does it state anything about meeting SL, SM etc and it really confuses the reader as to which oil to use in the future. Most racing oils should not be used for a daily driver, not enough protection etc. What about extended drains?

So, someone with a high performace engine with twin turbos but basically a daily driver that has been using Amosil 10W30 for years with good results, should they switch to the Dominator racing 10W30 in the future. Can you get better protection but also extended drains?

With so many weights, series, formulas etc it is becoming very confusing to the customer as to which Amsoil oil to use?

So, when should the Dominiator series be used, can it be used in a daily driver for extended drains etc. What API designation does it meet or exceed????
IMO the article generated many more questons then it answered
 
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It will work fine in street applications, but is not intended for extended drains. If you want a more robust 30wt than the ATM, I'd consider the less expensive 10w30 Marine oil (WCT), which is API/SL rated. I've actually used this stuff w/ a 12k OCI and it held up very well. I'd feel comfortable with it in my Audi TT w/ a 10k OCI....

HT/HS viscosity, 3.65 Cp
Noack, 4.8%
TBN, 10.5
(infamous) Four Ball, 0.40 mm (150C/40kg/1800 rpms)
PP, -54F

This is a much more robust oil than the regular 5w30/10w-30 and with the thicker viscosity and very low volatility is well suited to older engines and turbo/supercharged engines. Forget "label" engineering and compare the specs of the stuff in the bottle.
 
Originally Posted By: Spector

However, no where does it state anything about meeting SL, SM etc and it really confuses the reader as to which oil to use in the future. Most racing oils should not be used for a daily driver, not enough protection etc. What about extended drains?

So, someone with a high performace engine with twin turbos but basically a daily driver that has been using Amosil 10W30 for years with good results, should they switch to the Dominator racing 10W30 in the future. Can you get better protection but also extended drains?

With so many weights, series, formulas etc it is becoming very confusing to the customer as to which Amsoil oil to use?

So, when should the Dominiator series be used, can it be used in a daily driver for extended drains etc. What API designation does it meet or exceed????
IMO the article generated many more questons then it answered


Dominator is not designed for extended OCI runs in street cars, it's made for RACING - and if people start bagging on it for not meeting API, I'm gonna go nucking futz. I'll have a near postal "you really don't get it, do you?" fit. Not saying this about your post Spector, I just needed to get that off my chest.

I would say give it a shot in your engine example.

I really don't think the oil choices are confusing. If so, see your dealer.

It should be used in racing applications. It can be used in street cars, but not extended runs. It doesn't meet any API minimal spec, it doesn't need to. It's a racing oil.

I am going to run the 5W-20 in my wife's Honda Odyssey Van, because she drives like an animal.
 
Sounds good. Now, why didn't the article in the Amsoil News put it as concise as you did?????????

Ha, see your dealer, I am a dealer.

My platinum director jobber has moved to NC and for the past many years had his nose up AJs behind and gave totally biased company line answers to questions so I gave up on him. He still gets money when I purchase products though~!!!!!
 
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Pablo,

I wouldn't waste $$$ testing this stuff out of the bottle, I don't think you're going to see much. I suspect they're using the same FM that's in the 0w30 and possibly the 0w-20, along with something like a 4:5 ratio of P to Zn. A guess would be 1400 ppm of P and 1750 ppm of Zinc. I'd be very surprised if there is any Boron or Moly in this formulation, which is sure to disappoint the hairy knuckle crowd.

The reason why the Noack is fairly high @ 8% is that some of that ZDDP is volatilizing off. The carrier oil for the additives is probably a low molecular weight ester and that may be evaporating also .

FWIW, the Dominator 10w30, the 10w30 Marine Oil and the new 10w30 MC oil all look to be using a very similiar basestock blend, with varying additive chemistries. This is how you leverage your R & D money and come up with three different formulations from the same basic template....
 
Some example of where Dominator oils would be used in "street" engines would be stroker motors for the life of piston skirts, engines with higher valve spring pressure whether they are OHC or OHV, enlarged injectors, chipped motors set for more power and higher dilutions, bigger injectors, enlarged throttle bodies, etc.

There is use for Dominator on the street but extended change intervals are not a good idea under the circumstances above without knowledge backed up by analysis.
 
I am sure I will get bashed by this, but what actually constitutes a "race" oil? More ZDDP? Something that has no certification? I just get really confused on this. Use my car as an example. 06 Lancer Evolution. My car makes 160whp per liter. Its my Daily Driver, and weekend warrior. I have as do most "modern" engines, have Roller Rockers and hydrolic lifters. Where are the benefits of this "robust" oil going to come into play? Especially in a 10/30? On my car, I would really never need that much ZDDP since there are very few areas where the oil will shear. Will it help out my turbo journals that probably spin at 175,000RPM at WOT? I don't think it would. I use Mobil 1 10w30 and have had no issues. Evo Forums bash me for using M1 and why I am not using "race" oil, or a 20/50 at least in my car. I just can't get the point accross to people that most modern cars simply don't "use" or "need" lots of ZDDP. Its like putting 91 octane fuel in a car requiring 87 and saying it is "better" for your car. I would think the most important factor in any oil, regardless if it is tracked or street driven, is the base stocks in which the product was made. If you use Mobil 1 10w30 or Amsoil ATM 10/30 because your vehicle manual states to use such viscosity, then do so. BUt I just cant see the benefit of spending big money on a "race" oil with TONS of ZDDP in a street car running an O2 sensor and a CAT. Even with my car running a Hi-Flo cat. It just makes no sense to me. IF we were all driving 1960 muscle cars then these "race" oils would be the ticket. But in 2010??? I just don't see it. If you actually "Race" your car, and its never smogged, and is not street driven, then I can see it. Someone prove me wrong here? I would love to here the arguement.
 
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Racing oils are generally loaded with extra level of anti-wear additives (usually ZDP for flat tappet cams), more shear stable and can handle high temperatures.
 
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