Amsoil 100:1 Marine 2 Stroke Oil

[Nuclear_42]

I can’t find any newer threads about this. Does anyone here run Amsoils Saber Marine 2 stroke oil on their outboards at the recommended 100:1 ratio? Their data sheet suggest 100:1 regardless of OEM mixture and the PDS shows the viscosity much thicker than other makes. I’d like to premix this for my 1997 Yamaha 80HP on a 17ft boat @ 100:1. However maybe 80-90:1 is more appropriate in Florida weather. Not much info on how well it actually performs at 100:1. Maybe 100:1 is borderline minimum. No idea! Usually the boat gets Penzoil XLF but the stash is almost out and I’d really like to try this oil.

 

[nwjones18]

I personally have not. I do assume that if Amsoil say its fine that it would be (I know 100:1 didn't work out for OMC back in the day) .. I run Pennzoil at 50:1 in my Mercury 25 and have low/no smoke and am confident its getting lubricated. Not any way to tell if the 100:1 is providing adequate lubrication for your motor until it locks up, which has always kept me going the safe route..

 

[Cujet]

Many years ago, the very same claims were made. I worked as a tech testing racing outboards, oil testing. Our main goal was maximum HP, but there was also a wear related component, as some engines were altered from stock port configurations. I'd install and remove six cylinder, two stroke powerheads. Then drive the boats to ensure functionality and tuning, prior to the experts doing real testing.

Then I'd pull off the powerheads and they'd be disassembled, measured and inspected. Sometimes modified and different parts installed for re-testing.

8 to 1 made the most HP, idle was almost impossible.
16 to 1 made very close to the same power, but was easier to deal with
32 to 1 provided all the wear protection of the higher ratios in unmodified engines
50 to 1 did not protect as well on the exhaust port side on high output engines (up to 300HP)
80 to 1 and 100 to 1 showed markedly increased wear and significantly lower HP.

Even back then, there were oils that made similar claims. None of them held up. BelRay Mc1 was a good example of a very viscous oil that claimed it was able to protect at extremely lean ratios. Not so. In fact, there was very little difference between oil brands and types back then.

Interestingly, the 8 to 1 produced no carbon

 

[Cujet]

I thought I'd add that 32 to 1 is what I use in just about everything. I'd have no issues using 50 to 1 in a quality outboard.

I'd never use 100 to 1 in any two stroke engine, ever.

 

[Nuclear_42]

Many years ago, the very same claims were made. I worked as a tech testing racing outboards, oil testing. Our main goal was maximum HP, but there was also a wear related component, as some engines were altered from stock port configurations. I'd install and remove six cylinder, two stroke powerheads. Then drive the boats to ensure functionality and tuning, prior to the experts doing real testing.

Then I'd pull off the powerheads and they'd be disassembled, measured and inspected. Sometimes modified and different parts installed for re-testing.

8 to 1 made the most HP, idle was almost impossible.
16 to 1 made very close to the same power, but was easier to deal with
32 to 1 provided all the wear protection of the higher ratios in unmodified engines
50 to 1 did not protect as well on the exhaust port side on high output engines (up to 300HP)
80 to 1 and 100 to 1 showed markedly increased wear and significantly lower HP.

Even back then, there were oils that made similar claims. None of them held up. BelRay Mc1 was a good example of a very viscous oil that claimed it was able to protect at extremely lean ratios. Not so. In fact, there was very little difference between oil brands and types back then.

Interestingly, the 8 to 1 produced no carbon

Thanks for the technical information. I’d agree a racing application needs extra lubrication however would the same wear correlate on a recreational outboard seeing 3-5k rpm’s on an average?

 

[Nuclear_42]

I called amsoil tech line and asked about this oil. I specifically asked about wear protection and warm weather. The technician was very assertive 100:1 will be sufficient in my application. He noted mixing is richer wouldn’t hurt but it’s not needed. I will be trying this oil 100:1 in the near future and report back.

 

[Chris142]

Just want to throw this in. In the 80's I raced 3 wheelers. I picked up Neo synthetic oil as a sponsor. They advertised that their oil was to be ran @100:1.

I simply could not keep my 250cc Honda together using that ratio. It would seize, wear out quickly etc.

I went back to Golden Spectro oil and my old ratio of 32:1 and the problems stopped.

Don't know how if my experience with that ratio would mean the same results in a boat engine though.

 

[1blkc5]

Think twice stick with the pennzoil xlf its been working for you . I have been running the xlf in my yamaha motor w/o any issues .

 

[Pablo]

You can run 100:1 Amsoil with no problem. If you run hard, like race, use a race oil. In between, say you run at extremes, use this oil 50:1

https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-100-1-pre-mix-100-synthetic-2-stroke-outboard-oil-ato/?zo=515729

 

[nwjones18]

I called amsoil tech line and asked about this oil. I specifically asked about wear protection and warm weather. The technician was very assertive 100:1 will be sufficient in my application. He noted mixing is richer wouldn’t hurt but it’s not needed. I will be trying this oil 100:1 in the near future and report back.

Is the goal to save money, experiment, or get maximum life from your motor? When Pennzoil 2 stroke oil is $20 a gallon I don't see how much money could be being saved even using half as much amsoil. I've got no beef with experimenting, I'm mildly curious if there are any long term affects myself if you can tolerate the small risk.

Think everyone would agree running Amsoil at 100:1 isn't going to make your motor last any longer than Pennzoil at 50:1.

 

[Nuclear_42]

Is the goal to save money, experiment, or get maximum life from your motor? When Pennzoil 2 stroke oil is $20 a gallon I don't see how much money could be being saved even using half as much amsoil. I've got no beef with experimenting, I'm mildly curious if there are any long term affects myself if you can tolerate the small risk.

Think everyone would agree running Amsoil at 100:1 isn't going to make your motor last any longer than Pennzoil at 50:1.

I was mostly interested in simplifying things at the gas pump. My average top off per trip is 23-25 gallons which roughly equates to 1 quart of Amsoil 100:1. Buying a case brings the cost down to around $14 100:1 vs XLF 50:1 on my average fuel runs. It’s within the price range I’d be willing to spend to simplify things. XLF does burn pretty clean however I assume the Amsoil would be even better.

 

[Nuclear_42]

You can run 100:1 Amsoil with no problem. If you run hard, like race, use a race oil. In between, say you run at extremes, use this oil 50:1

https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-100-1-pre-mix-100-synthetic-2-stroke-outboard-oil-ato/?zo=515729

Thanks for the feedback! My 17 footer is completely stock. Mostly used to fish near the bay and cruises nicely around 3500-4000k rpms. Only mod I’ve done is used Chris Carson Marine reeds. They really helped with idling and slight improvement on fuel economy.

 

[Flycableguy]

Why not use the HP Marine? It's cheaper then the Saber and rated for 100:1 in the Evinrude spec.

 

[Nuclear_42]

Why not use the HP Marine? It's cheaper then the Saber and rated for 100:1 in the Evinrude spec.

That’s with e-tec engine with direct injection. Not a carb engine.

 

[FZ1]

Quicksilver Premium Plus in my 95 9.9 Evinrude. Get a mixing bottle and try different ratios, easily. $3 bucks at Academy.

 

[oil pan 4]

Take whatever the factory recommends (which is what the EPA tells them to put in the manual) and bump it by at least 20%.
My 50:1 stuff all gets at least 40:1.
My redmax weed eater loves 32:1 after some tuning, starts first pull cold everytime. Can't argue with that.

 

[oil_for_my_doo]

Many years ago, the very same claims were made. I worked as a tech testing racing outboards, oil testing. Our main goal was maximum HP, but there was also a wear related component, as some engines were altered from stock port configurations. I'd install and remove six cylinder, two stroke powerheads. Then drive the boats to ensure functionality and tuning, prior to the experts doing real testing.

Then I'd pull off the powerheads and they'd be disassembled, measured and inspected. Sometimes modified and different parts installed for re-testing.

8 to 1 made the most HP, idle was almost impossible.
16 to 1 made very close to the same power, but was easier to deal with
32 to 1 provided all the wear protection of the higher ratios in unmodified engines
50 to 1 did not protect as well on the exhaust port side on high output engines (up to 300HP)
80 to 1 and 100 to 1 showed markedly increased wear and significantly lower HP.

Even back then, there were oils that made similar claims. None of them held up. BelRay Mc1 was a good example of a very viscous oil that claimed it was able to protect at extremely lean ratios. Not so. In fact, there was very little difference between oil brands and types back then.

Interestingly, the 8 to 1 produced no carbon

That's some crucial piece of knowledge right there!! Thank you very much!
Did you have any overheating or engine knocking issues when running such rich oil to gas ratios? What kind of oil you mostly used? Synthetic, Mineral, Castor?