I bought a 2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD and changed to oil from the factory stuff to the AMSOIL 0w30 motor oil with a Ea0 oil filter. My question is that the owner's manual called for 5w30 and the AMSOIL guide said 5w30 or recommended the 0w-30. I used the truck for a lawn/landscape company so it does pull a trailer with commerical mowers and equipment. Then it hauls dirt, mulch, leaves, etc. I wanted to make sure this oil is good for the truck and the conditions it is used in or if I should switch to the 5w30 motor oil
Amsoil 0w-30 Motor Oil
- Thread starter joe424
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You will be well served by the 0W30 (Signature Series I'm assuming). Don't sweat the 5W30 recommendation because the 0W30 will offer better start-up protection and cold flow than the 5w30 conventional ever could. I'm a big fan of the SSO and use it in several vehicles that I own...some even spec 10W30 or 10W40, but I've found the SSO works very well. Relax.
Oh yeah and
this is a great forum to learn from.
Are you going to extended the Oil Change Interval? The 0W30 is a good choice.
If you are going to change it a manufacturers guidelines? save a few $$ and go with the 5W30 - it's still a very good oil.
If you are changing it more often or 3K miles? Use any SM rated oil. Anything else is a waste of money (my opinion)
Just my 2 cents. If you are going to extend the OCI I would do a used oil analysis to make sure it will work in your application.
If you are going to change it a manufacturers guidelines? save a few $$ and go with the 5W30 - it's still a very good oil.
If you are changing it more often or 3K miles? Use any SM rated oil. Anything else is a waste of money (my opinion)
Just my 2 cents. If you are going to extend the OCI I would do a used oil analysis to make sure it will work in your application.
Quote:
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD and changed to oil from the factory stuff to the AMSOIL 0w30 motor
this guy couldnt be in any better shape, do a used oil sample at 18/22,000 miles.
newer engine will have a little more wear metals than normal but the numbers will be below the limits of 5000 mile UOA.
this oil will be good for 20,000 miles minimum in a new vehicle.
Rear differential could use a fresh batch of oil too, break in metals during the first 5000 miles are normally high.
I would like to know the window sticker milage and the milage with 15,000 miles on the same oil...
2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD and changed to oil from the factory stuff to the AMSOIL 0w30 motor
this guy couldnt be in any better shape, do a used oil sample at 18/22,000 miles.
newer engine will have a little more wear metals than normal but the numbers will be below the limits of 5000 mile UOA.
this oil will be good for 20,000 miles minimum in a new vehicle.
Rear differential could use a fresh batch of oil too, break in metals during the first 5000 miles are normally high.
I would like to know the window sticker milage and the milage with 15,000 miles on the same oil...
joe424, I'm assuming your 2500 is a gas burner and NOT a Duramax. If that's correct, then the 0w30 is perfectly fine.
Thank you for all the helpful replies. My truck does have the 6.0L gas engine with a 3.73 rear end. The mileage with 2,300 miles on it is 12 - 12.5 in city driving. I tow a 3500# - 4000# landscape/lawn mowing trailer with equipment and get about 11.5 - 12mpg. I did take it on a highway trip for about 250 miles and got around 16mpg. I did change the oil at 2178 miles and then sent it in for oil analysis. I was planning on doing the oil change once a year since my truck falls into the severe service for the 0w30 motor oil and also oil analysis each year. I am also on planning on changing the transmission and tranfer case oil at around 3,000 - 5,000 miles to the Amsoil ATF. Then change the differentals at 3,000 - 5,000 miles to Amsoil severe gear oil. I am also thinking about installing a bypass system but not sure if it would be worth it or not. Most of my driving is less than 10 miles one way. I usually put 10,000 miles on a vehicle a year with 3,000 is usually lawn/landscape business miles. I just spent a lot of money on this truck and I plan to keep it for 10 years. I rely on it for a daily driver and business, so I really wanted to take care of it.
Joe424,
Glad to see that you are going to do a used oil analysis. One suggestion other people have made is that you might want to wait a few OCIs before you start the used oil analysis. There is a lot of "noise" in the first few OCIs (break in metal, assembly lubes, etc.). Now I did it anyway with my Honda just to see how things settled in. But it really wasn't a good indicator of how the oil was performing. I didn't mind spending the extra few $$ (considering the used oil analysis costs about 1/4 of the price of a tank of gas). But if you are on a budget, the first few OCIs aren't going to give you a lot of meaningful information.
Sounds like you are going about things prudently. Let us know your results!
Glad to see that you are going to do a used oil analysis. One suggestion other people have made is that you might want to wait a few OCIs before you start the used oil analysis. There is a lot of "noise" in the first few OCIs (break in metal, assembly lubes, etc.). Now I did it anyway with my Honda just to see how things settled in. But it really wasn't a good indicator of how the oil was performing. I didn't mind spending the extra few $$ (considering the used oil analysis costs about 1/4 of the price of a tank of gas). But if you are on a budget, the first few OCIs aren't going to give you a lot of meaningful information.
Sounds like you are going about things prudently. Let us know your results!
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Should be a decent oil-but I think I'd stick with the manufacturer's OCI during the powertrain warranty period, the General isn't giving too many breaks these days, you probably won't have any problems, but why risk it??
I run M1's 0w30 in my '99 5.7 Z71(200,000 miles)towing too,,no problems at all.
Given your fuel efficiency and the size of the sump, I'd stick with a maximum 15,000 mile/1 yr OCI - even with the SSO. If you were using the 5w30/ASL or 10w30/ATM, I'd stick with a 12,000 mile OCI max before testing the oil.
It's very difficult to run the really long OCI's with V-8 engines, unless you're talking about a fairly fuel efficient Mercedes with a 10 qt sump...
It's very difficult to run the really long OCI's with V-8 engines, unless you're talking about a fairly fuel efficient Mercedes with a 10 qt sump...
Hey guys this is the result of my first oil analysis:
SEVERITY LEVEL 2
Flagged data may be 'wear-in' or contamination from overhauled or new unit; Copper is at a MODERATE LEVEL; Bushing/thrust metal
and/or most of the copper may be coming from lube cooler (as applicable); LEAD is at a MODERATE LEVEL and may be OVERLAY METAL
from MAIN/ROD BEARINGS; Cylinder region metals (pistons, rings, liners etc,) are at a MINOR LEVEL; Silicon/Dirt may be present due to new unit contamination; Sodium sources: coolant (antifreeze), lube additive or supplement, and/or environmental contaminant; Lubricant and filter change acknowledged;
SEVERITY LEVEL 2
Flagged data may be 'wear-in' or contamination from overhauled or new unit; Copper is at a MODERATE LEVEL; Bushing/thrust metal
and/or most of the copper may be coming from lube cooler (as applicable); LEAD is at a MODERATE LEVEL and may be OVERLAY METAL
from MAIN/ROD BEARINGS; Cylinder region metals (pistons, rings, liners etc,) are at a MINOR LEVEL; Silicon/Dirt may be present due to new unit contamination; Sodium sources: coolant (antifreeze), lube additive or supplement, and/or environmental contaminant; Lubricant and filter change acknowledged;
You should post the entire used oil analysis in the used oil analysis forum:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=3&page=1
Sounds like GM break-in material.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=3&page=1
Sounds like GM break-in material.
JHZR2
Staff member
personally, Id be looking for an ACEA A3 rated oil to handle the higher stress of trailering.
No empirical proof or reasoning behind the need to do so, for all I know your pulling a trailer of that weight around town to town is pretty benign and light for an engine of that type...
All the same, when the pedal goes down, and its the summertime in Ohio, Id guess that HTHS protection is of high importance...
JMH
No empirical proof or reasoning behind the need to do so, for all I know your pulling a trailer of that weight around town to town is pretty benign and light for an engine of that type...
All the same, when the pedal goes down, and its the summertime in Ohio, Id guess that HTHS protection is of high importance...
JMH
12K is about as far as some used oil analysis in most V/8's seem to dictate with a top-tier oil. I would also do the 1 year deal, keeping an eye on the magic number 12!I would stay with the 5-30 to save you some money.
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