Alternator choices

Joined
Dec 16, 2009
Messages
141
Location
Rhode Island
2009 Toyota RAV4 with about 150k miles. OEM alternator went out last year. I replaced with a Bosch rebuilt from Rockauto. I'm 3 days from a cross country trip and the Bosch has now begun screaming and rattling at startup. My options are now Napa, Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly. Does anyone make a decent rebuild that ACTUALLY changes the bearings? I won't be touching Bosch again.
 
try this,wish you luck
 
2009 Toyota RAV4 with about 150k miles. OEM alternator went out last year. I replaced with a Bosch rebuilt from Rockauto. I'm 3 days from a cross country trip and the Bosch has now begun screaming and rattling at startup. My options are now Napa, Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly. Does anyone make a decent rebuild that ACTUALLY changes the bearings? I won't be touching Bosch again.
I have had AMAZING luck (perfect so far) on used Alternators & Starters from either Facebook Marketplace (but I know what I am looking for)

or car-part.com, and buy a used OEM (only) that the salvage yard has already taken out (using your zipcode) for $40-50 I can easily find working starters and alternators.

make sure to get the OEM part number from your original alternator (I hope you took a picture) or call Toyota for the part number.
 
Since you are leaving for a trip I would not recommend this. I had an alternator do the same thing on a van. On a lark I sprayed WD-40 into it. Stopped squealing and lasted another year.
 
I put a brand new O'Reilly alternator on my daughters 09 Camry. We will see how that works out long term.
 
I honestly kinda doubt any of the corporate FLAPS use rebuilders that change the bearings as SOP. I think they all stick a finger in there, spin it and make a determination. I hope I'm wrong but they're trying to cut costs any way possible.
 
I honestly kinda doubt any of the corporate FLAPS use rebuilders that change the bearings as SOP. I think they all stick a finger in there, spin it and make a determination. I hope I'm wrong but they're trying to cut costs any way possible.
A local rebuilder told me the overseas rebuilder solder in individual diodes to the diode bridge. The local rebuilder says they just change the diode bridge.
 
Here’s what we need. This is a regular enough issue that BITOG could use a resource on how to DIY this.
- source for brushes
- how to measure, source and replace bearings
- how to at least clean and polish the slip rings
- source for diode bridge

Car hits 150k, or you get suspicious, either order the parts or source a cheap carcass and DIY the rebuild???
 
If you can’t rush a Denso from RA in the next couple days (no chinazon or fleabay) then I’d bite the bullet and get an OEM from the dealer and know I’ll probably never have to replace it.

Don’t want to break down in the middle of the desert in summer or something, that tow will cost a lot more than that alternator
 
Here’s what we need. This is a regular enough issue that BITOG could use a resource on how to DIY this.
- source for brushes
- how to measure, source and replace bearings
- how to at least clean and polish the slip rings
- source for diode bridge

Car hits 150k, or you get suspicious, either order the parts or source a cheap carcass and DIY the rebuild???
Don't the rebuild shops turn the alternator rotor on a lathe? How is a shade tree mechanic suppose to do that?

They also use an oscilloscope to check the output of the alternator to determine if a diode in the bridge is bad. If one diode is bad they usually replace the diode bridge.
 
Here’s what we need. This is a regular enough issue that BITOG could use a resource on how to DIY this.
- source for brushes
- how to measure, source and replace bearings
- how to at least clean and polish the slip rings
- source for diode bridge

Car hits 150k, or you get suspicious, either order the parts or source a cheap carcass and DIY the rebuild???
I dunno, you really need a chassis iron to do it right.
 
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