It burning a little, have to add about 10oz fl every 3k miles.I think the EP HM oil will serve you well. If you're burning a lot of oil, you might want to try something thicker, but otherwise I'd stick with what you're doing.
That's not bad. I'd use the EP HM that you bought, and see how it goes. You can always try something else next OCI if needed.It burning a little, have to add about 10oz fl every 3k miles.
It's a little thinner. You can check this outYou didn’t buy a thinner oil. 0w20 is the same viscosity as 5w20.
It's a little thinner. You can check this out
Look at the certs is has. Best off the shelf 0w-20 out there.Mobil1 ESP 0W20 X2. It is actually upgrade.
Your new HM choice is both thicker @100cst than 5w20 and 0w20 default syn oils.I couldn't find it anymore. I bought M1 0w-20 EP High Mileage instead. At 125k miles, should I have bought a thicker rather than a thinner oil?
Is it suitable for High Mileage cars? Or I just go with the EP HM one.Mobil1 ESP 0W20 X2. It is actually upgrade.
Is it suitable for High Mileage cars? Or I just go with the EP HM one.
Of course, it is. HM just has additives that swell your gaskets.Is it suitable for High Mileage cars? Or I just go with the EP HM one.
Of course, it is. HM just has Higher amounts of additives that swell your gaskets.
I couldn't find it anymore. I bought M1 0w-20 EP High Mileage instead. At 125k miles, should I have bought a thicker rather than a thinner oil?
It would have to get down to probably around -25F before you would notice any difference between a 5w20 and a 0w20.I’m running 5w20 as opposed to always have run 0w20 and I can’t tell a difference. At what temp is there a difference?
Of course, it is. HM just has additives that swell your gaskets.
My BMW has 153,000 miles and I use Edge 0W30.
ESP 0W20 X2 has a better additive package than any ILSAC GF-6 oil. It has higher levels of Zinc, phosphorous and base stock is better.
And, most importantly, it is green color!
I wouldn’t say it will have that followingSeriously?
“The new Green GC!!”