Alternative Bypass pressure in oil filters

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I was digging around Donaldson's website and found the factory filter for my Lexus GS400 is a

Donaldson P550078, based on cross reference is a Wix 51348, which is the interchange for the 90915-YZZD3 and 90915-YZZB5.
Donaldson says specs are:
Thread: 3/4-16
Diameter: 3.31"/84mm
Length: 4.92"/125mm
FULL FLOW
Filtration Efficiency: 50% @ 20 mircon
OEM TOYOTA filter at Donaldson 15601-33010
Bypass PSI not listed
Gasket OD: 2.47"/63mm
Gasket ID: 2.25"/57mm

Wix lists the 51348 at a bypass of 8-11 psi.

I found a Donaldson P551603 that is similar in specs, larger (I have gobs of room),but a bypass pressure of 30 psi. Is there a reason NOT to run a higher bypass pressure? What what point is there a risk or too little oil pressure?

Thread 3/4-16
Diamter: 4.26"/108mm
Length: 7.25"/184mm
FULL FLOW
Filtration Efficiency: 99% @ 23
OEM FIAT 71909101, IVECO 01901603, HESSTON
Bypass Pressure: 30 psi/2.07 bar
Gasket ID: 2.83"/72mm
Gasket OD: 2.44"/62mm

I run a Wix 51515 or a Amsoil Ea filter (34 I think, the cross to a 51515) now, but like the idea of the Donaldson filters with a higher bypass.

My long term plans are a System1 (30 micron) with a Amsoil BP100 bypass. Figure best of both worlds. I put on pretty high miles a year. The Amsoil filter doesn't seem to keep the oil visually as clean over the long run as the PureOne or Wix. Can't say that is scientific at all. But the Amsoil oil with Amsoil oil filter will look darker at 15k than it does with most any other oil and a Pure One or Wix filter. Maybe it is just me...

WIX shows 7-9 GPM and 8-11 psi filter bypass on any of the cross references I see for any of the above filters (51348, 51515, 51516, 51459 (the longer version of the 51515, which is the Amsoil EAO26, which is commonly used in the Bypass filter Dual Remotes.) The 51459 has a 7-9 psi bypass, which is odd the Donaldson P551603 has a 30 psi bypass.... Very puzzling....
 
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That bypass pressure would greatly concern me.

I think the 51348 Wix is around 9-11 psi; they are typically at or near OEM specs, as you've already seen. Your alternate selection is at 30psi? That's about 3x more dP for the bypass to burp open. That would concern me at cold starts given your area in the mid-west.

Stick with something recommended to OEM specs. Further, any direction you take "off the reservation" means you're not covered by the filter warranty.

The risk isn't worth it; I'd not do it.
 
I did just find this Donaldson filter, P550318, it is a 15 micron filter 99%, which Wix also has, http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=51307, seems much more reasonable.

I run 0W20 oil, not sure how often the bypass would open on that or not.

Was wondering what OEM specs are? And does my engine (1UZ-FE, 4.0L V8) have an internal bypass also? If it does, the filter bypass isn't needed at all.
 
Bypass pressure is dictated by the flow rate if the filter and the strength if the media. It's the spec for that individual filter, not your car
 
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Bypass pressure is dictated by the flow rate if the filter and the strength if the media. It's the spec for that individual filter, not your car


True, and if a filter has a 30 PSI bypass valve then "theoretically" the media should be able to take 30 PSI of delta-p before imploding/tearing.
 
Some cars like the Honda S2000 has a bypass of over 20 lbs, why I don't know. The oil pressure is 90 to 100 psi until you hit V-tec then drops down a little.

ROD
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Bypass pressure is dictated by the flow rate if the filter and the strength if the media. It's the spec for that individual filter, not your car


True, and if a filter has a 30 PSI bypass valve then "theoretically" the media should be able to take 30 PSI of delta-p before imploding/tearing.



Except that vehicles with the BP feature in the block still need to have a filter spec so that media will withstand whatever setting the OEM chose.

Still - a generally good point made here.

Conversely, if the filter does have a BP feature, and that set point is 30 psi (3x the OEM norm), then would the media be considered "too restrictive"? I mean, for all those poor souls that believe a PureOne filter is "too restrictive", then something like this should make their collective heads explode.

Just sayin' ...


What most folks loose sight of is the overall goal here:
To what end does one "need" an alternative filter of any kind in any application?
Show me an example where OEM filter specification criteria directly caused issues with engine longevity.
Why risk the undesirable outcome, no matter how remote, on something that has not shown any indication whatsoever of being inferior.

Ooooohhhhh - I want a "better" filter. I want a "bigger" filter.
For what practical purose?
Show me even just ONE proven data set that conclusively exhibits a rational application for the real world in this regard.

I dare you.
I double dog dare you.
I triple dog dare you.


P.S. - the first person that utters the GM filter study (88-1825) will automatically be sent to the corner in repose to mull the error of his/her ways.
31.gif
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
P.S. - the first person that utters the GM filter study (88-1825) will automatically be sent to the corner in repose to mull the error of his/her ways.
31.gif


The study makes some good points, of course, Dave. However, I've never seen an engine wear out from regular use of the worst "rock catchers" out there. I "like" good filtration, but I'm not about to spend a bunch of money chasing it.

As for synthetic filters (and this one may be a rock catcher, depending upon one's point of view), one supplier here wants $30 for a Wix XP in the 57356 variant. Whether that's 50% efficient or whatever it says on the Wix site, or 99.9999% at 1 micron, I'm not touching it unless they guarantee it for 50,000 miles.
wink.gif
 
1. Less pressure drop across the larger element, less time in be in bypass. We all need to ponder the bypass, it is something that will go into bypass and not stay, but will be constantly trying to get back into filter mode. I would like to mod a filter to somehow measure the amount of time it is in bypass in relation to oil viscosity and temp and pressures demanded by the oil pump. Trying to figure out a way.... If anyone has ideas let me know!

2. More oil capacity. My car OEM filter is TINY (1/4-1/3rd quart tops). Simply Lexus wanted 1 filter across all car lines. Bean counters dictate parts like that. Ask GM, it is one of the major quality downfalls of GM, the bean counters. Sell a million of something, save a $1 on each part, you just saved the company $1M, or should I say, when the cars are sold, the company will profit $1M more than they did if they didn't do it.

Can I prove it makes a difference in life of the engine? I don't have empirical evidence, but look at the vehicles that go long intervals on oil changes (MD and HD trucks, any diesels, most any performance vehicle). The trend in higher performance anything is larger sump capacity. It is my #1 goal to give longer life of the vehicle. OEM's all increase oil capacity on higher end vehicles. They often increase it on trucks. It isn't a bad thing ever.

But a larger filter (from a Wix 51348 to a Wix 51459) and more oil capacity (in my case 1 full quart is a 20% increase in sump capacity) is always a good thing except for cost, any oil analysis lab will agree. Filter costs are often almost identical. So the additional cost is 1 more quart of oil. The oil runs cooler, more capacity will increase life of the oil. If this is not the case then everyone, including HD trucks and such will have 2 quart capacity sumps to save $$.

And yes, I drive a lot of miles a year around 2500 miles a month, consistently for the last 3.5 years. Commuting only....


Originally Posted By: dnewton3

Ooooohhhhh - I want a "better" filter. I want a "bigger" filter.
For what practical purose?
Show me even just ONE proven data set that conclusively exhibits a rational application for the real world in this regard.

I dare you.
I double dog dare you.
I triple dog dare you.
 
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Sort of what I was thinking. If the filter has a high bypass pressure, the media HAS to be able to withstand it.

My only concern is, is there a reduction in oil pressure leading up to the event where the bypass valve opens.

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix


True, and if a filter has a 30 PSI bypass valve then "theoretically" the media should be able to take 30 PSI of delta-p before imploding/tearing.
 
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Originally Posted By: EyesofThunder
1. Less pressure drop across the larger element, less time in be in bypass. We all need to ponder the bypass, it is something that will go into bypass and not stay, but will be constantly trying to get back into filter mode. I would like to mod a filter to somehow measure the amount of time it is in bypass in relation to oil viscosity and temp and pressures demanded by the oil pump. Trying to figure out a way.... If anyone has ideas let me know!

2. More oil capacity. My car OEM filter is TINY (1/4-1/3rd quart tops). Simply Lexus wanted 1 filter across all car lines. Bean counters dictate parts like that. Ask GM, it is one of the major quality downfalls of GM, the bean counters. Sell a million of something, save a $1 on each part, you just saved the company $1M, or should I say, when the cars are sold, the company will profit $1M more than they did if they didn't do it.

Can I prove it makes a difference in life of the engine? I don't have empirical evidence, but look at the vehicles that go long intervals on oil changes (MD and HD trucks, any diesels, most any performance vehicle). The trend in higher performance anything is larger sump capacity. It is my #1 goal to give longer life of the vehicle. OEM's all increase oil capacity on higher end vehicles. They often increase it on trucks. It isn't a bad thing ever.

But a larger filter (from a Wix 51348 to a Wix 51459) and more oil capacity (in my case 1 full quart is a 20% increase in sump capacity) is always a good thing except for cost, any oil analysis lab will agree. Filter costs are often almost identical. So the additional cost is 1 more quart of oil. The oil runs cooler, more capacity will increase life of the oil. If this is not the case then everyone, including HD trucks and such will have 2 quart capacity sumps to save $$.

And yes, I drive a lot of miles a year around 2500 miles a month, consistently for the last 3.5 years. Commuting only....


Originally Posted By: dnewton3

Ooooohhhhh - I want a "better" filter. I want a "bigger" filter.
For what practical purose?
Show me even just ONE proven data set that conclusively exhibits a rational application for the real world in this regard.

I dare you.
I double dog dare you.
I triple dog dare you.



The topic of filter bypass events has already been data-logged by member Jim Allen. The bypass event is actually quite rare. In his F150, using 10w-30 oil and a FL820S, the filter would only "burp" the bypass for a second or so, and that was ONLY at cold starts and upon a heavy throttle blip to WOT! It never happened ever when up to full temp; it never happened at all even when cold if you keep the needle off the pin for rpm. BP events are actually quite rare. Not that they never happen, but they don't happen often. He used very good equipment; his post is here from about two years ago with all the data.

Oil capacity is moot in your example. Your Lexus won't benefit to any measurable manner in terms of temp reduction or wear reduction. As with most any modern engine, it's liquid cooled; the oil does not control overall temps. The sump temp isn't going to be affected by the size of the filter can. While I agree that many HD OTR type rigs benefit from long OCIs, you have no ability to change your sump size by any meaningful manner. If any sump in any normal car was so greatly affected by volume to the degree in imply, then running "low" by a quart would make something overheat, would it not? The coolant keeps the entire engine at a desired temp, not the size of the filter can. That's just ridiculous. Yes - a MUCH larger sump capacity would possibly make a difference. But unless you plan on having a remote dry-sump reservoir mounted in the trunk, with a cooling fan, you're urinating into the breeze, because adding perhaps .1 or .2 quart in filter volume isn't squat to the system total.

Your goal is to get longer vehicle life? OK - good.
Please define exactly the expected duration of the typical lifecycle in terms of miles for you make/model/engine. It's not like a Lexus is known to be dead on the roadside at 80k miles. Being a Toyota based product, most of them EASILY will crest 250k miles. I, personally, have several vehicles over 150k miles, all run on the "normal" filters with "normal" oils.

There are only two things that will unexpectedly take a vehicle engine out of service:
1) a lingering manufacturing defect
2) maintenance neglect

You cannot affect #1, other than to select a unit that is historically not trouble-prone.
As for #2, as long as you do routine, reasonable maintenance, you'll be fine.


watch this:
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=mill...CF7803B665BC1FE
that video is actually quite old. I recently called and spoke to the service center that was in that video. The manager told me this about that truck:
The orignal engine died around 100k miles. (Enter topic 1; a defect). They did not have time to rebuild it, so they got an engine from a wrecked truck. That second 5.4L engine ran over a million miles (enter topic 2). That truck was wrecked not long ago with more than 3,000,000 (three million) miles on it. The second motor was eventually replaced with another 5.4L engine that also went over a million miles. All service was done by that one service care center. The oil they used in the 5.4L engine was Kendall 10w-40. Did the oil (thicker than required) make the engine last so long? Probably not. At least not any more than the same 10w-40 killed the first engine in 100k miles. The reality is that they did good routine maintenance; no special products were required.

There are plenty of stories of ultra-high-mile vehicles out there. And most all of them don't use synthetics nor bypass filtration. They don't "upsize" their filters or try some arbitrary manner of out-thinking the OEM products. They just follow a routine schedule and drive the wheels off.


I am NOT stating that BP filters or syns are a waste. I am stating that folks don't understand what it takes to maintain a vehicle for longevity. Premium products do NOT make the vehicle engine last longer; those premium products make the lube last longer in service. You can greatly extend OCIs by using such products.


Therefore, if your quest it to make a fiscal decision, then you'll have to calculate how much further you think your "new" filter selection can take an OCI.


And to prove it, you're going to have to establish and define criteria that can be shown to deliver a measurable difference. You're going to have to do a LOT of UOA tracking to be able to first establish a base-line for your current lube/filter, because unless you know where you start from, how would you ever know how much "improvement" you may or may not achieve?


The reality is that there are NO SAE studies done in this manner to prove a FILTER in a real world application makes any difference whatsoever, when it is past a known acceptable threshold for the OEM spec'd performance level. And you are not likely to able to prove any discernible difference in your garage experiments. In all the times I've challenged anyone to display real world proof, or SAE studies, that confirm their theory, exactly ZERO PEOPLE have been able to do so. None, zip, nada, zilch.


Your engine does not "need" a bigger filter to last a VERY long time; well past when you'll either wreck it or become bored of it.


If you "want" to do this, then that is exactly what you should do if it makes you sleep well at night. But don't guess your way through! Why not actually contribute to BITOG in a meaningful manner? First establish your base-lines, then run controlled experimentation and report results.

When Jim Allen wanted to really know about filter bypass opening events, he gauged up and ran well controlled testing. He ran multiple scenarios and data-logged all meaningful measurables.

When I wanted to prove that longer OCIs were safe and cost-effective, I did three things:
1) found an SAE study that directly supported my theory (SAE# 2007-01-4133)
2) ran a LARGE macro-data study with over 10,000 UOAs (proof in the lead page of this website)
3) ran personal experiments that were easy to measure and compare/contrast to other criteria from other sources; those results echoed both the SAE study data and the UOA study data


I hereby (in a friendly manner, with jest in my tone) challenge you by throwing down the gauntlet! Do something UNIQUE here; don't theorize, actually do!


You believe that a slightly larger filter will positively effect the lifecycle of you engine? Do these things:
1) establish baseline with current products; use statistical analysis
2) define the manner to measure change (wear-rates and temps?)
3) employ a credible manner to measure those criteria

Once you do those, let all the data talk AFTER you collect it. The only way you can prove that your theory is true is to do one of a few things:
a) prove that the larger filter can alter the wear rate lower than a "normal" filter would do, over the same OCI duration
b) prove that the larger filter can alter the sump temps lower than a "normal" filter would do, for any given OAT
BTW - that second point will actually work against you when it's cold outside; longer warm up times!
wink.gif


It is my stance that you will not see any statistically significant difference by using a larger filter as you suggest.

But by all means, prove me wrong!
thumbsup2.gif
 
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Currently I have 2 oil analysis on oil in it so far, about as much of a baseline I can get.

I'll have to look them up for the oil and filter in them.

You gave me lots to ponder....I'll be back with questions I am sure.

Good to know on oil filter bp events, is that info posted here? Id like to look at it. How did he measure it? Was the block bypass "bypassed"?
 
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My long term goals are a System1 filter and an Amsoil Bypass BP100. I have the Amsoil filter given to me, and I picked up the mount and hardware I need, just need lines now.

I am trading other items for the System1. It irks me to drive sooo many miles and change oil/filters so often. I would like to keep the oil in longer if I can safely. Im no tree hugger, but I try not to be wasteful for no reason.
 
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One other comment on the larger filter reason.

In the case of Amsoil running 25k OCI, with the small filter, they recommend changing the filter out at 15k, where the longer and fatter filters can go the full 25k. I did one OCI with 0W20 Amsoil for 30k and the oil was just starting to oxidize. I don't recall particulate size.

A test I have thought about, maybe you can give me ideas if valid.

I have around 15k on the oil and Amsoil EaO34 (Wix 51515 equiv) in the car now. If I did an UOA on it now, and then changed only the filter and ran it say another 5k, and did an another UOA it would see if the type filter I switched to (say a Donaldson xx or a PureOne in the same filter size makes a difference.

Anyone with thoughts? Would it be valid or ? This car rarely needs top off oil. So that isn't coming into the equation.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
True, and if a filter has a 30 PSI bypass valve then "theoretically" the media should be able to take 30 PSI of delta-p before imploding/tearing.


Originally Posted By: EyesofThunder
Sort of what I was thinking. If the filter has a high bypass pressure, the media HAS to be able to withstand it.

My only concern is, is there a reduction in oil pressure leading up to the event where the bypass valve opens.



There could be oil flow reduction if the filter is restrictive (due to reasons given below), and the oil pump's pressure relief valve kicks in before the filter's bypass valve opens.

Oil filter restrictiveness shows up when the oil pump hit's pressure relief and the system goes from a positive displacement flow to a max pressure source flow.

IMO the only real reason a filter's bypass valve is set real high is because the filter designer expects some pretty high delta-p across the filter due to:
a) high oil volume flow (ie, insane oil pumps on Subarus),
b) pretty restrictive media,
c) lots of debris loading
... or any/all of those factors combined.
 
Are you getting particle counts?

Wix uses the filter in multiple applications and uses the lowest required safe bypass pressure. Donaldson might have PNs that all xref to the Wix PN... example P554407 P551603

P550299 is another large filter.

You need a dedicated bypass filter.

Not sure why you want the system1. Changing filter allows you to replenish additives to further the OCI. Filters and oil can be recycled.

What is more wasteful? a few gallons of oil and some filters? or scrapping the engine or vehicle?

Are you as detailed with the ATF, PSF, gear oil, brake fluid, antifreeze...?

Also keep an eye on the engine's oil filter mount. Larger filter puts weight and leverage on the mount and oil cooler, if equipped. Might be better off with a dual remotely mounted filter relocation kit that is secure with no strain on the filter mount.
 
The plan is a dedicated bypass. The problem is WHERE to mount, the GS engine compartment isn't abundant with room. So a Dual Remote type isn't possible at all. I have one small space where I can put a single bypass not far from the main oil filter.

The mount is a good solid mount, no issues with the Wix 51515 size at all, even longer is ok, I can't see it putting any stress on it that would possibly damage it. No particle counts in these UOA's Wish they did.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3385353/

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3385124/

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3385122/

With the system1 I get the benefit of taking it apart every xx miles and inspecting it. The Bypass will clean the oil very well, the System1 will be catching the bigger stuff. I want to see inside. Its a hassle to cut filters apart, but I might buy a filter opener still. No place I know if that takes oil filters, I have truck oil down to Autozone to get it recycled.

The facotry mount is like this: http://s622.photobucket.com/user/rmalanis/media/1uzfe swap/100_8675.jpg.html I can easily get an adapter to AN lines for it, it is like a Pontiac, simple as bolting a block of metal to it with the line fittings.

I change the Trans fluid every 2 years (synthetic, undyed T4 spec, from a local converter shop that makes their own fluids and the oil engineer is the president of the company) and PS fluid as well. Both easy enough and not worth the cost of UOA on it. I have Amsoil 75W90 in the diff now, I might change it this year, I can't recall if I changed it last or the year before. I will look up my records.

Amsoil said they essentially use the Wix cross reference for their filters. Does Donaldson or Wix make the filters for Amsoil now?




Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Are you getting particle counts?

Wix uses the filter in multiple applications and uses the lowest required safe bypass pressure. Donaldson might have PNs that all xref to the Wix PN... example P554407 P551603

P550299 is another large filter.

You need a dedicated bypass filter.

Not sure why you want the system1. Changing filter allows you to replenish additives to further the OCI. Filters and oil can be recycled.

What is more wasteful? a few gallons of oil and some filters? or scrapping the engine or vehicle?

Are you as detailed with the ATF, PSF, gear oil, brake fluid, antifreeze...?

Also keep an eye on the engine's oil filter mount. Larger filter puts weight and leverage on the mount and oil cooler, if equipped. Might be better off with a dual remotely mounted filter relocation kit that is secure with no strain on the filter mount.
 
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