Alaska cold: pan heater vs 0w20

Seems like a garage would be really nice to have up there. Put a space heater in and insulate the garage and at least it would be above 0....right?
 
I ran a fleet of 200, 2015-2016 Ford Transits with the 3.2L diesel.
What I landed on for guaranteed start was.
Battery tender junior to keep battery at peak - 125W
Stock block heater - 400W
Oil pan heater - 150W
We had box trucks so the up fitters wired it all through a shore plug at the front drivers side corner of the box.
Adding 150W pad heaters for the transmission and same for rear diff is doable on a 15amp service.
We used Wolverine pad heaters.
 
Originally Posted by Iowegian
Changing all differential fluids with Mag1 75w90 pour point is -51°C/-60°F (wish I knew what super tech's pds is!)

Save Your money. Mag1 and SuperTech carry the same specs.
 
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by Iowegian
Changing all differential fluids with Mag1 75w90 pour point is -51°C/-60°F (wish I knew what super tech's pds is!)

Save Your money. Mag1 and SuperTech carry the same specs.

I saw a thread about that but don't recall seeing the proof. I sent an email to the distributor asking for super tech soecs and no reply yet
 
Friend had a Honda CVCC near Girdwood, AK in 1980-ish. He bought it locally. Their winter prep was

-- bending the lip down on the battery tray and fitting an oversized "arctic special" model.

-- installing a 4-outlet gang box under the hood with one cord hanging out the grill from it. From there he had a block heater, oil heater, and a battery blanket plugged in.

It worked fine, though his PCV system couldn't take the cold and would freeze up and drip oil all over everything.

Nearly everywhere you need a block heater they will have an outlet for you.

I'd consider doing what you can to protect your paint and windshield from stone chips as well.
 
Originally Posted by eljefino

I'd consider doing what you can to protect your paint and windshield from stone chips as well.


Yep, rented a F150 supercrew from Fairbanks last October. Did not escape a rock chip on the Richardson highway.
Did not get charged for it either.
 
Stick-on oil pan heater, block heater, trickle charger, and battery blanket are all you need, although I've had conventional power steering fluid do strange things at -10F here, I would change PS fluid, ATF, and all gear oils to the thinnest synthetic you can find. My biggest PS fluid problems came on hydroboost systems, it would take a while for the fluid to warm up enough to have decent steering & power brakes, generally accompanied by unhappy PS pump noises!
 
Never had issues when it dips to -40 ambient with a properly working block heater, winter front and synthetic fluids.

I run a lot of locally made Co-op group 4 based products. Stupid low poor points and way cheaper than everyone else.

Never had shifting or driveline issues. Depending on your application, the most over looked fluid was power steering fluid. I had used amsoil atf but have been switching to Co-op atf SL which has like a -63 pour point. Made a huge difference with pump whine and the system puking fluid out.

If I had to do sustained -40 starts I would be running a trickle charger and or a battery blanket in tandem with the block heater.

One of my brothers worked in whitehorse, yellowknife, norman wells amongst others for many years. Block heater and battery blanket.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Marco620
Redline 0w20! Has a pour point of -76,high flash,2.9 hths and made in the usa.

Interesting.
Will consider it. Have had goid luck with Magnatec so i hesitate to change from that.
 
Originally Posted by BrianF
Never had issues when it dips to -40 ambient with a properly working block heater, winter front and synthetic fluids.

I run a lot of locally made Co-op group 4 based products. Stupid low poor points and way cheaper than everyone else.

Never had shifting or driveline issues. Depending on your application, the most over looked fluid was power steering fluid. I had used amsoil atf but have been switching to Co-op atf SL which has like a -63 pour point. Made a huge difference with pump whine and the system puking fluid out.

If I had to do sustained -40 starts I would be running a trickle charger and or a battery blanket in tandem with the block heater.

One of my brothers worked in whitehorse, yellowknife, norman wells amongst others for many years. Block heater and battery blanket.

The F150 does not use a power steering fluid/pump.
The Transit uses Mercon LV which had a pour point of -54°F. I appreciate the reminder on the power steering fluid.
 
Originally Posted by Iowegian
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by Iowegian
Changing all differential fluids with Mag1 75w90 pour point is -51°C/-60°F (wish I knew what super tech's pds is!)

Save Your money. Mag1 and SuperTech carry the same specs.

I saw a thread about that but don't recall seeing the proof. I sent an email to the distributor asking for super tech soecs and no reply yet

Okay....i just looked at the PDS for 5w30 super tech that Warren sent to this person...thread:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...7/supertech-pds-from-warren-distribution
And i looked at Mag1 5w30. Exact same stuff.
Super Tech 75w90 it is.
 
Originally Posted by Iowegian
Originally Posted by Marco620
Redline 0w20! Has a pour point of -76,high flash,2.9 hths and made in the usa.

Interesting.
Will consider it. Have had goid luck with Magnatec so i hesitate to change from that.

Magnatec is step below Edge, or two steps below. If you go Castrol, go Edge.
Mobil1 EP 0W20 has hefty % of PAO, which would be better in cold. If I was about to live there, and needed these ILSAC-GF5 oils, I would go Mobil1 0W20 EP.
Redline is really good since it is Ester, and will do good in col. Pour point is irrelevant. Pour point is relevant to figure out base stock. Low pour point indicates synthetic base stocks. However, it really does not matter for starting purposes whether it is -76 or -60 or -50. Your oil will not use gravity to move. Oil pump will do that job. So, CCS and MRV performance is what matters to get picture which oil will do better.
However, there is no doubt that synthetic 0W20 oils will do job. I would be more concerned with heat, battery etc. Block heater is minimum and trickle charger for battery. Also, maybe bumping battery capacity.
 
You're on the right track here, Iowegian.

Perhaps you can give Delta Leasing a call for advice? From their website:

STANDARD UPFIT
Running boards, block heater, bedliner, towing package, heavy-duty floor mats, mud flaps and seat covers.

NORTH SLOPE UPFIT
Includes everything in the standard upfit plus engine oil pan heater, transmission heater, arctic grade steering fluid and lines, arctic grade coolant (-80 deg. F), backup alarm, external hood latch with remote cable, fire extinguisher, first aid kit, Goodyear Duratrac tires, in gear alarm, radiator winterfront and auto start.


https://www.deltaleasing.com/catalog/pickup-trucks/

Welcome to Alaska! I'm in Palmer, in southcentral Alaska. It's a bit warmer than where you're going in Interior!

Best!
 
Originally Posted by SteveG4
You're on the right track here, Iowegian.

Perhaps you can give Delta Leasing a call for advice? From their website:

STANDARD UPFIT
Running boards, block heater, bedliner, towing package, heavy-duty floor mats, mud flaps and seat covers.

NORTH SLOPE UPFIT
Includes everything in the standard upfit plus engine oil pan heater, transmission heater, arctic grade steering fluid and lines, arctic grade coolant (-80 deg. F), backup alarm, external hood latch with remote cable, fire extinguisher, first aid kit, Goodyear Duratrac tires, in gear alarm, radiator winterfront and auto start.


https://www.deltaleasing.com/catalog/pickup-trucks/

Welcome to Alaska! I'm in Palmer, in southcentral Alaska. It's a bit warmer than where you're going in Interior!

Best!

Thanks for the welcome.
Asking mechanics from the area for advice????
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Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by Iowegian
Originally Posted by Marco620
Redline 0w20! Has a pour point of -76,high flash,2.9 hths and made in the usa.

Interesting.
Will consider it. Have had goid luck with Magnatec so i hesitate to change from that.

Magnatec is step below Edge, or two steps below. If you go Castrol, go Edge.
Mobil1 EP 0W20 has hefty % of PAO, which would be better in cold. If I was about to live there, and needed these ILSAC-GF5 oils, I would go Mobil1 0W20 EP.
Redline is really good since it is Ester, and will do good in col. Pour point is irrelevant. Pour point is relevant to figure out base stock. Low pour point indicates synthetic base stocks. However, it really does not matter for starting purposes whether it is -76 or -60 or -50. Your oil will not use gravity to move. Oil pump will do that job. So, CCS and MRV performance is what matters to get picture which oil will do better.
However, there is no doubt that synthetic 0W20 oils will do job. I would be more concerned with heat, battery etc. Block heater is minimum and trickle charger for battery. Also, maybe bumping battery capacity.

Found this article to be very helpful.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/30447/combat-oil-gelation
If you know how I can get the gelation test on various oils, I would be greatful. Meanwhile, pour point is a legitimate test that I do have access to. On Edge vs Magnatec. Edge 0w20 pour point is -42°C vs the Magnatec -51°C is a significant difference. What I don't know is the curve of the viscosity. Does the Magnatec thickens up way early but then flattens out? That would make it a bad oil for extreme cold.

Red Line is some nice oil. But it would be cheaper to put on a heat pad....alot cheaper lol.
 
Originally Posted by Iowegian
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by Iowegian
Originally Posted by Marco620
Redline 0w20! Has a pour point of -76,high flash,2.9 hths and made in the usa.

Interesting.
Will consider it. Have had goid luck with Magnatec so i hesitate to change from that.

Magnatec is step below Edge, or two steps below. If you go Castrol, go Edge.
Mobil1 EP 0W20 has hefty % of PAO, which would be better in cold. If I was about to live there, and needed these ILSAC-GF5 oils, I would go Mobil1 0W20 EP.
Redline is really good since it is Ester, and will do good in col. Pour point is irrelevant. Pour point is relevant to figure out base stock. Low pour point indicates synthetic base stocks. However, it really does not matter for starting purposes whether it is -76 or -60 or -50. Your oil will not use gravity to move. Oil pump will do that job. So, CCS and MRV performance is what matters to get picture which oil will do better.
However, there is no doubt that synthetic 0W20 oils will do job. I would be more concerned with heat, battery etc. Block heater is minimum and trickle charger for battery. Also, maybe bumping battery capacity.

Found this article to be very helpful.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/30447/combat-oil-gelation
If you know how I can get the gelation test on various oils, I would be greatful. Meanwhile, pour point is a legitimate test that I do have access to. On Edge vs Magnatec. Edge 0w20 pour point is -42°C vs the Magnatec -51°C is a significant difference. What I don't know is the curve of the viscosity. Does the Magnatec thickens up way early but then flattens out? That would make it a bad oil for extreme cold.

Red Line is some nice oil. But it would be cheaper to put on a heat pad....alot cheaper lol.

Two winters ago, I had Castrol Magnatec 5W30 (full syn) in my Wisconsin car over the deep part of the winter. It was overly thick at -20 degrees F. I won't be doing that again.

In my Alaskan truck, I've used Pennzoil Platinum and QSUD 5W30 oils in my truck's winter sump with great results -- good down to -30 degrees F in Palmer, AK.

In your truck, perhaps Mobil1 AFE 0W20 would be worth a future look? Hard to say. It would be good to consult Fairbanks mechanics and or the folks at Delta Leasing.

Good Luck!
 
Originally Posted by Iowegian
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by Iowegian
Originally Posted by Marco620
Redline 0w20! Has a pour point of -76,high flash,2.9 hths and made in the usa.

Interesting.
Will consider it. Have had goid luck with Magnatec so i hesitate to change from that.

Magnatec is step below Edge, or two steps below. If you go Castrol, go Edge.
Mobil1 EP 0W20 has hefty % of PAO, which would be better in cold. If I was about to live there, and needed these ILSAC-GF5 oils, I would go Mobil1 0W20 EP.
Redline is really good since it is Ester, and will do good in col. Pour point is irrelevant. Pour point is relevant to figure out base stock. Low pour point indicates synthetic base stocks. However, it really does not matter for starting purposes whether it is -76 or -60 or -50. Your oil will not use gravity to move. Oil pump will do that job. So, CCS and MRV performance is what matters to get picture which oil will do better.
However, there is no doubt that synthetic 0W20 oils will do job. I would be more concerned with heat, battery etc. Block heater is minimum and trickle charger for battery. Also, maybe bumping battery capacity.

Found this article to be very helpful.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/30447/combat-oil-gelation
If you know how I can get the gelation test on various oils, I would be greatful. Meanwhile, pour point is a legitimate test that I do have access to. On Edge vs Magnatec. Edge 0w20 pour point is -42°C vs the Magnatec -51°C is a significant difference. What I don't know is the curve of the viscosity. Does the Magnatec thickens up way early but then flattens out? That would make it a bad oil for extreme cold.

Red Line is some nice oil. But it would be cheaper to put on a heat pad....alot cheaper lol.

Again, pour point is legitimate test, it is there for a reason. But do not get stuck on that. I would go Edge any day over Magnatec in any environment, not to mention such harsh environment.
Though, when it comes to those ILSAC GF-5 oils, Mobil1 0W20 EP would be my choice.
Also, new Euro 0W20 oils have much more stringent approvals than these oils we are talking about. Obviously you are not looking cheapest, so oils such as BMW TPT 0W20 would be good choice, or anything that is MB229.71 approved.
 
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