Air compressor regulators

[wrcsixeight]

2 years ago or so I needed a nail gun and compressor quickly and despite having previously vowed to never buy Porter Cable again, I did.

Model# C2002R

Of course now, despite not yet paying for itself nor seeing much use, the regulator, which never seemed to work properly, now will not allow over 80 PSI before it jumps a stripped thread and backs off to 60 psi. The only way to get it back up to 80 PSI is to empty the tank, crank it up till just before it jumps the thread, then turn the compressor back on. Needless to say this is inadequate.

So, I want to install a new regulator and not some Porter cable replacement, nor deal with the warranty. I don't care about the stupid plastic cowl. I want a regulator that I can turn when the tank is at 150 PSI.

Is this just a matter of getting an aftermarket 1/4" NPT regulator with gauge and doing a little plumbing? I'm looking at an Ingersoll Rand R37121-600-VS

How often do these regulators go out on real compressors?

 

[dernp]

I have a Hitachi twin stack. Probably well over 2 million nails with my framing gun, regulator on it will not adjust down.. Stays at 110 psi. So I guess if you buy quality, it will last a bit longer. I;ve been in the construction business a long time and I can assure you that you get what you pay for when it comes to power tools.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: dernp
I have a Hitachi twin stack. Probably well over 2 million nails with my framing gun, regulator on it will not adjust down.. Stays at 110 psi. So I guess if you buy quality, it will last a bit longer. I;ve been in the construction business a long time and I can assure you that you get what you pay for when it comes to power tools.


Huh? You can't adjust down from 110. I've got a dozen gas powered and 7 or 8 trim compressors and I can regulate the line pressure from 0 to whatever pressure is in the tank,so 150 on the eagles and 135 on the rest.
I've even figured out how to adjust at what pressure the compressor begins to pump into the tanks. They come stock at 100,which means once tank pressure reaches 100psi the compressor starts pumping air into it however my guns are regulated to 110 which translates to a deficit of air.
When bumping 6 spikers off 1 pump you can see my dilemma. Once the pump starts compressing air again the guns are already lower than regulated and potentially not sinking the nails. Which means 6 men standing,waiting for pressure to build so they can start shooting again.
So I adjust the pressure at which the pump begins to pressurize up to 135. So that keeps the tank pressure above regulated pressure and my guys don't need to wait for tank re pressurization. It still happens occasionally when stapling off sheathing on walls and roofs but its much less often.
Back to topic. OP. a regulator is cheap and should just thread on,so buy whatever name brand you are comfortable with. You can find small ones that regulate from 120psi to 0psi or larger ones that will regulate up to 250psi that I've seen. Buy whichever is adequate for your needs.
Don't forget the Teflon tape on the threaded end.

 

[dave123]

Sounds like the IR regulator should do the trick most OEM homeowners regulators are junk. Off topic most people under buy when they purchase a air compressor it always stuns what people expect to get out of them and it never works.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
2 years ago or so I needed a nail gun and compressor quickly and despite having previously vowed to never buy Porter Cable again, I did.

Model# C2002R

Of course now, despite not yet paying for itself nor seeing much use, the regulator, which never seemed to work properly, now will not allow over 80 PSI before it jumps a stripped thread and backs off to 60 psi. The only way to get it back up to 80 PSI is to empty the tank, crank it up till just before it jumps the thread, then turn the compressor back on. Needless to say this is inadequate.

So, I want to install a new regulator and not some Porter cable replacement, nor deal with the warranty. I don't care about the stupid plastic cowl. I want a regulator that I can turn when the tank is at 150 PSI.

Is this just a matter of getting an aftermarket 1/4" NPT regulator with gauge and doing a little plumbing? I'm looking at an Ingersoll Rand R37121-600-VS

How often do these regulators go out on real compressors?


You cannot go wrong with IR products.

 

[Smoky14]

Not to hijack this thread, but where can you buy parts for a regulator. The bleeding valve seat on my reg has cracked and won't hold air. It looks like a 10 cent piece but I can't find a source for the darn things.
All suggestions appreciated.

Smoky
PS: I'm sure mine is cheap China junk but why spend $25.00 when I can spend .25 and get the same result.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: Smoky14
Not to hijack this thread, but where can you buy parts for a regulator. The bleeding valve seat on my reg has cracked and won't hold air. It looks like a 10 cent piece but I can't find a source for the darn things.
All suggestions appreciated.

Smoky
PS: I'm sure mine is cheap China junk but why spend $25.00 when I can spend .25 and get the same result.


If its a HF one, they may sell parts. You may spend more time searching for the part than its worth.

 

[HerrStig]

AMAZON has a good stock of regulators in many price ranges.

 

[wrcsixeight]

Thanks. I'm gonna double check the current plumbing, probably get IR regulator and make it work.

As far a tool quality goes, I agree usually one pays for cheap tools several times. I do not have much use for a compressor but when I do it is nice to have, except when it cannot drive a nail deep enough cause I cant get the regulator to go high enough cause it was built badly.
With little experience with compressors and little time to research available products, I did not know how badly this one was made, but with an operational regulator, should meet my minimal needs.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: dave123
Sounds like the IR regulator should do the trick most OEM homeowners regulators are junk. Off topic most people under buy when they purchase a air compressor it always stuns what people expect to get out of them and it never works.


Well said.
A homeowner buys some oil-less compressor expecting to run impact guns but the pump is barely able to inflate tires.
I'm the opposite. I buy once,buy bigger than I need and it lasts forever n
My dad however seems to like those oil-less pancake compressors for trim. We burn up 1 a year. My originally bought oiled pump rigid has been with us for 6 years now.
Sure it cost twice as much but has lasted 6 times as long and still going.
For a few dollars more........

 

[JethroBodine]

I got the Sears Craftsman 6HP 160psi compressor with the 26 gal holding tank. Pumps 150 all day long.


The 26 gal tank is the way to go. It is powerful enough to blow out my 9 zone in ground sprinkler system every fall.

 

[Rand]

I had a HF oil filled 8gallon it worked ok but the feed line from the tank was so small it wouldnt run air tools adequately.

sold it for 40$ on CR

bought a 50$ cheap oilless. At least I can dust out computers and such and its portable.

It was painfully slow. something like 1cfm@40 .8@90

It has been retired and I have decent campbell hausfeld
6gallon oilfree it gets occasional use.
much much better for 80$ 4.3cfm@90

I prefer oilfree only because I dust out registers and computers with it.

Back ontopic

HF sells regulators for 5-10$

as good as the Chinese ones on amazon..

but definitely not as good as IR or other quality names.

 

[JetStar]

I had an IR regulator that I liked, It got recalled and replaced with one that lasted a few years, the regulator valve would stick in the bore. Junked it and bought a Wilkerson, which is working fine.

 

[wrcsixeight]

Today I fired up the PC compressor and the regulator allowed 110 psi max. However when the motor shut off, I heard the petcock leaking. I removed it to find the rubber grommet shredded.

I fired up the compressor because My Bosch planer seized without warning. But when I opened it up there was not much dust. The deep groove ball bearing on the drum assembly seized. I got the belt pinion off, and the seized bearing off the drum with a Vice and leverage, but ruined the drum in the process.

So today was a bad day.

Ruined a 40 dollar( to replace) part to replace a failed 3 dollar part on an older planer not worth much more than 40$. Kind of debating whether to just get a newer more powerful planer or fix this one. I Hate treating tools as disposable

It appears if I bypass the original plumbing to add an aftermarket regulator, then the tank PSI gauge will get removed from the loop. Guess I don't really need to know the tank pressure though it just cycles from 150 to 120. Got to disassemble it and have a closer look. Pics later.

 

[Donald]

I have spare IR parts in boxes waiting to be installed. As the cheap ones fail, they get replaced with IR ones. And with IR I am going to 1/2" ones.

My biggest "to-do" for my compressor is to make a pallet like base for it. Right now its on whats left of a pallet it shipped on in 1987. Its a monster however. 5 HP, 2 stage and 60 gallon tank.

I am thinking if I need to move it I could get a pallet jack or forks for my Bobcat.

 

[wrcsixeight]

Ok Some Pics,

The manifold body incorporates the regulator. There is a separate air line to the pressure switch from the back of the manifold, under the tank PSI gauge

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I am wondering if I can get this regulator to work properly by removing that nut on the back side and having a look at the internals.

The hand grip takes a lot of torque to move, and the threads have flattened out, but they only jump a thread when torqued with more than 75% of my Hand strength when trying to increase regulator pressure.

How much hand torque does a quality regulator take to adjust??

The New drain petcock should arrive tomorrow, and I can put this back into use just not with a nice easy to adjust regulator. I'm not gonna take apart the manifold until I have a game plan. I'm wondering if a little spit and polish on what I have here can stave off any purchase.

I'm just not seeing a simple way to add an IR regulator and still have the pressure switch see tank pressure. The brass fittings add up in price quickly.
They want ~45$ for a new direct replacement manifold assembly with regulator.

 

[wrcsixeight]

I installed a new Petcock on this compressor and cranked the regulator up to the maximum before it jumped a thread and then plugged in the compressor. This time the regulator allowed 140 PSI, and I was able to adjust the nail depth on the nail gun itself.

A couple questions for those with more experience with compressors.

How easy is it to change the regulator pressure dial, 2 fingers? a hand and a lot of torque? Can you only adjust it with No psi in the tank?

I would like to dial this tool in. I know it is not a great tool. I don't really need much more than this. Portability is key. I just hate having to fiddle with things on the jobsite when they should be earning me money instead.

 

[small]

What kind of nail gun are you using most air tools only require 90psi. Hitachi roofing nailers NV45??? have a depth adjustment, other might too. That way you don't have to keep climbing down off the roof when shingles go from cold to hot and you need less pressure to drive the nail.

Not to sound like a **** but you know most need to pull the knob out and then turn to set, press it back in when your dialed in?

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: small
What kind of nail gun are you using most air tools only require 90psi. Hitachi roofing nailers NV45??? have a depth adjustment, other might too. That way you don't have to keep climbing down off the roof when shingles go from cold to hot and you need less pressure to drive the nail.

Not to sound like a **** but you know most need to pull the knob out and then turn to set, press it back in when your dialed in?


Most guns today have depth adjustment. I use hitachi guns pretty much exclusively. They need very little air per shot which means less air required overall and they are pretty tough. The head is titanium so I use it as a hammer to smash stuff over.
Paslode is junk,bostich is tough but just so heavy.