...and the mechanic's scanner won't communicate with it. This is the Ranger listed below. Engine is the 16-valve 2.3L Duratec. Mech says the speed sensor on the wheel is fine, thinks that the problem is something affecting both the Air Bag sensor and the ABS. Any ideas?
Air Bag and ABS both lit...
- Thread starter TallPaul
- Start date
- Status
I'd look for body network codes or problems, your usual assortment of shared and seemingly unrelated fuses and grounds, over/under voltage.
Check cruise control, if you have it, for operation.
You may need a real Ford scanner that communicates over pins in the port that aren't the EPA standard pins. I went through this with a chrysler van.
Check cruise control, if you have it, for operation.
You may need a real Ford scanner that communicates over pins in the port that aren't the EPA standard pins. I went through this with a chrysler van.
Do you have a manual for it? If not, you can download a PDF from the Motorcraft website.
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/
In the "Roadside Emergencies" section there are charts showing the locations of fuses and what features are on the fuse. Check fuses that could affect one or both systems. I'm guessing there is a blown fuse or some other minor part that affects both systems.
Getting the codes will really help narrow it down, but it looks like you are going to have to go to the dealer for that.
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/
In the "Roadside Emergencies" section there are charts showing the locations of fuses and what features are on the fuse. Check fuses that could affect one or both systems. I'm guessing there is a blown fuse or some other minor part that affects both systems.
Getting the codes will really help narrow it down, but it looks like you are going to have to go to the dealer for that.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I'd look for body network codes or problems, your usual assortment of shared and seemingly unrelated fuses and grounds, over/under voltage.
Check cruise control, if you have it, for operation.
You may need a real Ford scanner that communicates over pins in the port that aren't the EPA standard pins. I went through this with a chrysler van.
You are correct - you need the Ford scan tool to pull communication, body and module codes. The mechanic he is using only has a generic tool for powertrain and ABS it seems. Not being able to get into the right modules stops all diagnosis for that mechanic.
I'd look for body network codes or problems, your usual assortment of shared and seemingly unrelated fuses and grounds, over/under voltage.
Check cruise control, if you have it, for operation.
You may need a real Ford scanner that communicates over pins in the port that aren't the EPA standard pins. I went through this with a chrysler van.
You are correct - you need the Ford scan tool to pull communication, body and module codes. The mechanic he is using only has a generic tool for powertrain and ABS it seems. Not being able to get into the right modules stops all diagnosis for that mechanic.
I will take it to Oval Repair in Livonia. They are two Ford mechanics that started their own shop because they did not like the way the dealer treated customers. They have FOrd related tools and stuff my regular shop does not have like the computer to pull the door opener keypad code.
Check horn and cruise control. If neither of those work like they should I would be certain that it is a bad clock spring.
Clock spring is gonna make the ABS light come on?
What's the history of the vehicle? Did both lights come on at the same time?
What's the history of the vehicle? Did both lights come on at the same time?
I don't know, just bought it. No cruise control. Horn works. Charges at 14 volts. New battery, but a real cheapie, looks like might last 2 years.
Clock spring? What the? Sounds like the same thing they used to call muffler bearings.
Clock spring? What the? Sounds like the same thing they used to call muffler bearings.
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
I don't know, just bought it. No cruise control. Horn works. Charges at 14 volts. New battery, but a real cheapie, looks like might last 2 years.
Clock spring? What the? Sounds like the same thing they used to call muffler bearings.
Clock spring mounts behind the steering wheel. Ford usually calls it a "horn contact". It allows all the switches on the steering wheel to work when the wheel is turning. Clockspring and Multifunction switch failures are not uncommon across the whole line.
I don't know, just bought it. No cruise control. Horn works. Charges at 14 volts. New battery, but a real cheapie, looks like might last 2 years.
Clock spring? What the? Sounds like the same thing they used to call muffler bearings.
Clock spring mounts behind the steering wheel. Ford usually calls it a "horn contact". It allows all the switches on the steering wheel to work when the wheel is turning. Clockspring and Multifunction switch failures are not uncommon across the whole line.
Does the dome light work?
Dome light works and map lights work, pretty much everything works. I'll keep that clock spring in mind and mention it to the shop next Wed when it goes in.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Clear title-not rebuilt or salvage?
I'm thinking accident damage, flood damage, rodent damage to wires or similar for both lights to be on...
I'm thinking accident damage, flood damage, rodent damage to wires or similar for both lights to be on...
There was a registration in the glove box from 2002 with the seller's name and address same as she signed on the title. Pretty sure she owned it from day one, and it does not show any sign of accident, flooding etc. I suppose rodent could have done something, but so far no sign of rodent activity, though haven't looked deeply in that regard.
Well, even the Ford mechanic's computer can't read the problem. Now I am looking at minimum $200 to start tearing in and see what may be wrong, and this would include looking at the clock spring. Alternatively, I can just ride it as it is. I never had air bags or ABS until my last vehicle and used the ABS maybe 3 or 4 times in 12 years. Saved me once from rear ending a guy, but then I don't have to drive that stupid anymore.
She told me the air bag light was on and she told me that her mechanic had said it needs a new air bag sensor. I doubt he had investigated it beyond seeing the light on. I did not notice whether or not the ABS light was lit, and she did not mention it. I bought it and since I did not have plates yet, drove it to the shop and left it for some maintenance updates including look at getting the light out. Can't remember but think both lights were on then. I doubt the shop triggered the ABS light, thought they did the brakes.
If a Ford scanner is not able to help, then it is highly likely that you have bad ground/power somewhere in the system. Unfortunately, it will take lot of determination and time to go through the vehicle and check all the grounds and power distribution. If you can get your hands on a factory electrical wiring diagram, that will help.
The problem is for a professional mechanic, if he were to do this job, it will take him lots of hours but very few people would be willing to pay for that kind of work.
Your other option is to see if Ford dealer already has TSB on it but failing that you are in marathon diagnostic session.
The problem is for a professional mechanic, if he were to do this job, it will take him lots of hours but very few people would be willing to pay for that kind of work.
Your other option is to see if Ford dealer already has TSB on it but failing that you are in marathon diagnostic session.
Bottom line, I am not all that concerned. It would be nice to have working, but not worth $200 to $1000+ to get fixed. Will look for TSBs anyway.
Guess you're lucky you live where you do. Vehicle won't pass inspection here with warning lights on. In fact, it has to successfully run the bulb check where all the warning lighs come on and then go off and stay off.
- Status