Aftermarket chainsaw chains for Echo CS 310

Owen Lucas

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Besides the OE Echo chain (14" 52 link), is there an aftermarket brand that is better than OE?

What do you think of Oregon chains and is it a good idea to change the bar at the same time as well?
 
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how many hours or whatever do you have on it?
I use oregon.. there are a few models
On the original chain, probably 5 hours. I'm new to chain saws and dug it into the ground a few times, which I'm sure didn't help.
 
I bought the Oregon 3-pack in 2022 for my CS-310 so I don't need to sharpen them as often. They are less than $10 a piece in the 3-pack which comes in a commercial cardboard box instead of the retail plastic clamshell. Each chain is sealed in a soft plastic bag. Oregon makes the OEM chain for Echo.

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Besides the OE Echo chain (14" 52 link), is there an aftermarket brand that is better than OE?

What do you think of Oregon chains and is it a good idea to change the bar at the same time as well?

yeah even a tap blows them out.
probably dont need a bar for a long time..
cant go wrong with something like this.. esp. if you are new-er to chainsaws.
https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-S52-AdvanceCut-Chainsaw-14-Inch/dp/B00004RA88
The chain @Rand posted is what i would go with on that saw with your level of experience. Short small saws more risk of kick back , especially with smaller engines. You don't need more chain than that. With only 30cc you don't want a full chisel chain its too grabby.

Dirt will instantly dull a chain. A semi chisel chain will go longer without sharpening than a full chisel.

Try to touch up the chain with a file before its too dull. I do it every tank of fuel.
 
Maybe watch some videos on how to hand file on the saw and give it a try? A 14" bar doesn't take long to do and any sharp/sharp-ish chain cuts better than any dull one. With the file guides its pretty easy to do, and chains last for years and years just touching up with a 2 strokes tooth every tank or two.
 
Thank you everyone for your help and advice. Being new to chainsaws, I will get the Oregon S52 3 pack, its good to have a few extras. I'll give the mechanicals a thorough cleaning to get any soil out.
 
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When I did a refresh on my old Craftsman saw last year, I went with an Oregon chain. I've only cut with it for ~6 hours, but it sliced through dried out fallen cedar like a hot knife through butter.
 
I’ve cut a lot of firewood in my life and I always use Oregon bars and chains. Learn to hand sharpen your chains and maintain the bar by flipping it so one side doesn’t wear too much. Keep the nose sprocket greased. Try to prevent hitting dirt and be extra careful to stay away from rocks. If you do hit a rock, have your chain machine sharpened to get the shape back into the cutting edge. Every few sharpenings, take a couple swipes off of the rakers with a flat file. I file mine enough that my saw will pull itself into the cut. That is a matter of how you want your saw to handle. All of this takes practice. Once you learn how to sharpen your chains, you will get much more enjoyment out of running your saw.
 
Still or Oregon chain will be an upgrade for most saws not already using them. Check with your local dealers and support your community where possible.
 
Stihl yellow dot. Unless you’re not a seasoned operator then stick to green. I worked for a tree service starting in high school and continued all the way through college. While we primarily used stihl saws, with a couple of 372xps, we always used stihl chain. You get what you pay for. Get good with a hand file and learn how to adjust your rakers with a flat file and any chain will work for a “once in awhile” user.
 
... You get what you pay for. Get good with a hand file and learn how to adjust your rakers with a flat file and any chain will work for a “once in awhile” user.
I have found very few people who can properly sharpen a chain freehand. Just like sharpening a knife, drill bit or saw blade, it's just about impossible to do a good job without a jig or extensive practice and experience.



Stihl has a marvelous chain sharpening tool called the 2-in-1. It's worth every penny and will likely give better results than a professional sharpen if you follow the steps. Properly sharp chains are more important than the chain quality when it comes to cutting. A dull or damaged chain does no favours.


Much longer video but I enjoy Steve's take on things.
 
I have found very few people who can properly sharpen a chain freehand. Just like sharpening a knife, drill bit or saw blade, it's just about impossible to do a good job without a jig or extensive practice and experience.



Stihl has a marvelous chain sharpening tool called the 2-in-1. It's worth every penny and will likely give better results than a professional sharpen if you follow the steps. Properly sharp chains are more important than the chain quality when it comes to cutting. A dull or damaged chain does no favours.


Much longer video but I enjoy Steve's take on things.

Maybe. We never took a chain off a saw till it was a nub. We had vices mounted to the trucks and would just clamp them once or twice a day and take a few swipes on each tooth. Stay out of the ground and if possible, dirty wood and your chain will stay sharp all day. Touch the ground for a mili second and we were headed to the vice. I haven’t done anything more than drop a tree here and there in 25 yrs, but they do stihl sell yellow dot stihl at my local dealer.
 
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