Aftermarket Catalytic Converters

[Sid6.7]

Has anyone used any of the Amazon Catalytic converters? my car is an older car a 2008 kia rio and I definitely don't want to spend the $ they want for a new cat here but even the prices on aftermarket cats in canada is crazy. some places quoting $500 for a walker brand cat. This thing would have to last 3-4 years shouldn't it? i am not looking to keep this car for 10 years or anything and as long as it doesn't rust off in 6 months and doesn't through codes I don't really care.


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[eljefino]

I know someone who used a couple eBay ones that were just barely adequate. One needed an anti fouler to keep the light off. They were mechanically ok, kept the smoke in.

There is an EPA warranty on aftermarket cats.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

It seems only the front converter (part of the exhaust manifold in your Rio) is monitored by the oxygen sensors, so the rear cat doesn't matter. The upstream sensor plugs into the manifold just before the cat, and the downstream sensor screws into a pipe between the two cats.

You most likely need the manifold converter. If you need it last 3-4 years, you should get a CARB-approved cat even though you're not in California. The CARB cats have more precious metal in them and will last longer. California requires them to last 5 years or 50k, whereas federal cats only have to last 2 years/25k in regards to catalytic performance. However, the structural integrity warranty is still 5 years/50k (rust).

The cheapest CARB manifold cat for your 2008 Rio seems to be the AP/Eastern 771152 from Rock Auto. Don't forget to use a 5% discount code. Lots of Canadians on here have used Rock Auto with success.

You should also replace the oxygen sensors. Get whichever brand ships from the same warehouse as the cat. You will need 2 (upstream and downstream)

 

[Sid6.7]

It seems only the front converter (part of the exhaust manifold in your Rio) is monitored by the oxygen sensors, so the rear cat doesn't matter. The upstream sensor plugs into the manifold just before the cat, and the downstream sensor screws into a pipe between the two cats.

You most likely need the manifold converter. If you need it last 3-4 years, you should get a CARB-approved cat even though you're not in California. The CARB cats have more precious metal in them and will last longer. California requires them to last 5 years or 50k, whereas federal cats only have to last 2 years/25k in regards to catalytic performance. However, the structural integrity warranty is still 5 years/50k (rust).

The cheapest CARB manifold cat for your 2008 Rio seems to be the AP/Eastern 771152 from Rock Auto. Don't forget to use a 5% discount code. Lots of Canadians on here have used Rock Auto with success.

You should also replace the oxygen sensors. Get whichever brand ships from the same warehouse as the cat. You will need 2 (upstream and downstream)

I am replacing the rear cat because the pipe has a hole in it, I posted a link to the cat I am looking at purchasing. If there is no worry about any check engine lights going on I am safe to get the cheapest cat i can ?

this cat right here the rear cat
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[WobblyElvis]

I was in a similar situation last year with my Hyundai. I could get a universal CAT delivered to my door for $70 when Hyundai wanted $2,000 for the factory system. No clear answer available, I purchased a $350 CAT that was locally made [Toronto]. Intstall was $150. Maybe it will fail tomorrow? I think it if does fail, I'll just cheat and install an anti fouler. The whole situation is stupid.

 

[97prizm]

Has anyone used any of the Amazon Catalytic converters? my car is an older car a 2008 kia rio and I definitely don't want to spend the $ they want for a new cat here but even the prices on aftermarket cats in canada is crazy. some places quoting $500 for a walker brand cat. This thing would have to last 3-4 years shouldn't it? i am not looking to keep this car for 10 years or anything and as long as it doesn't rust off in 6 months and doesn't through codes I don't really care.


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Whats Canada's version of the epa say? In the USA if it's a California emissions state it has to have a ten-year warranty but also has to have the correct stamping on the catalytic converter.

 

[Sid6.7]

Has anyone used any of the Amazon Catalytic converters? my car is an older car a 2008 kia rio and I definitely don't want to spend the $ they want for a new cat here but even the prices on aftermarket cats in canada is crazy. some places quoting $500 for a walker brand cat. This thing would have to last 3-4 years shouldn't it? i am not looking to keep this car for 10 years or anything and as long as it doesn't rust off in 6 months and doesn't through codes I don't really care.


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Whats Canada's version of the epa say? In the USA if it's a California emissions state it has to have a ten-year warranty but also has to have the correct stamping on the catalytic converter.

We don't have emission testing in my province, the only thing I have to deal with is if it causes the computer to throw codes.

 

[javacontour]

I am replacing the rear cat because the pipe has a hole in it, I posted a link to the cat I am looking at purchasing. If there is no worry about any check engine lights going on I am safe to get the cheapest cat i can ?

this cat right here the rear cat
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So, no way to repair the hole? I'd certainly pursue that before replacing it.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

So, no way to repair the hole? I'd certainly pursue that before replacing it.

This. You're better off fixing the pipe than replacing the cat, if there is nothing wrong with the cat itself.

I am replacing the rear cat because the pipe has a hole in it, I posted a link to the cat I am looking at purchasing. If there is no worry about any check engine lights going on I am safe to get the cheapest cat i can ?

this cat right here the rear cat
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If you still need to replace the cat after fixing the hole doesn't work, then you can get the cheap cat.

But if it's just a hole in the pipe and not the cat itself, then repair the hole. There are a few products you can repair it with, such as tiger tape and muffler cement. If the hole isn't near a flange, you could even use a can of soup and some clamps.

 

[Sid6.7]

So, no way to repair the hole? I'd certainly pursue that before replacing it.

I have some Jbweld high temp stuff that I want to put in the holes until i can get a new cat and was contemplating using a soup can and some of those clamps with the screw in them to go over that. I am kind of worried about the thing rotting right out and falling off tho lol.

 

[Sid6.7]

This. You're better off fixing the pipe than replacing the cat, if there is nothing wrong with the cat itself.



If you still need to replace the cat after fixing the hole doesn't work, then you can get the cheap cat.

But if it's just a hole in the pipe and not the cat itself, then repair the hole. There are a few products you can repair it with, such as tiger tape and muffler cement. If the hole isn't near a flange, you could even use a can of soup and some clamps.

ok I was worried this might just rot off but I think i am going to use jbweld in the holes and then and maybe a soup can. How long will that last?

 

[javacontour]

ok I was worried this might just rot off but I think i am going to use jbweld in the holes and then and maybe a soup can. How long will that last?

I wasn't thinking that. I was thinking an exhaust shop might be able to weld up the hole in a pipe.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I agree with repairing the hole if possible.

If you need to replace go AP Eastern or Walker. The no name cats often don't work enough to clear the code when new, let alone a year from now.

Before you spend money on new cats, check your fuel trims and such. You wouldn't want to burn up a new cat because your running rich or something.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

ok I was worried this might just rot off but I think i am going to use jbweld in the holes and then and maybe a soup can. How long will that last?

It depends how big the hole is and where it is (in the middle of a pipe, close to the cat, etc), and the condition of the rest of the exhaust

It should at least last long enough to get to a muffler shop that can weld it good again, and the temporary repair you did will at least let you drive in peace in the mean time without the annoying loud noise.

 

[Sid6.7]

It depends how big the hole is and where it is (in the middle of a pipe, close to the cat, etc), and the condition of the rest of the exhaust

It should at least last long enough to get to a muffler shop that can weld it good again, and the temporary repair you did will at least let you drive in peace in the mean time without the annoying loud noise.

Id just replace the cat myself before paying labor to get it welded, it is just a hole in the center and some pin holes alone the weld close to the cat but shops charge big $ and a new cat from rock auto is $250 or something

 

[Sid6.7]

I agree with repairing the hole if possible.

If you need to replace go AP Eastern or Walker. The no name cats often don't work enough to clear the code when new, let alone a year from now.

Before you spend money on new cats, check your fuel trims and such. You wouldn't want to burn up a new cat because your running rich or something.

Ok Ill just get something from rock auto, i read a bunch of reviews of the amazon ones and some people aren't very happy with them aftet a few months.

i have no clue how to check or adjust fuel trims on this car, its a 2008 kia rio

 

[SHOZ]

I've had a eBay one on my Accent for the last 4 years now. Keeps the light off. $120 IIRC. And was easy to change too.

 

[researcher]

@Sid6.7

I put in a no-name manifold/converter on my 96 Civic, it was made better than the original Honda! Yep, Honda was so cheap in the casting of the exhaust manifold that caused it to crack. Honda had a big recall for it but replaced it with the same cheap/thin part. The no-name I got from ebay was thicker and made in china, the catalyst was more uniform than Honda and it worked perfectly.

The key to these catalytics is to break it in properly. That's the problem with the reviewers, they complain the catalytic dies after a couple months, it's because they never broke it in..

Breaking/seating it in is easy, you install the catalytic, start the car, do not hit the gas, let it idle until the cooling fans come on, turn the car off and wait until the engine is cool.. Start it up and drive normally, that's it! There is matting around the catalyst honeycomb structure that needs to melt into place which holds the honeycomb structure. Do that and you'll be happy with the no-name catalytic..

I was also impressed that the a-premium cat you found had 409 stainless steel! Nice.. I replaced a cat-back exhaust on the Civic which was from ebay and 409 stainless, NICE!!

 

[Sid6.7]

I've had a eBay one on my Accent for the last 4 years now. Keeps the light off. $120 IIRC. And was easy to change too.

yah the bolts are easy to get at I replaced the flex section between the front header/cat and the cat 3 years ago and all the bolts came right off pretty easily. Do you think that Amazon one would be fine I mainly just want it not to make so much noise, I was even considering a test pipe. lol

 

[SHOZ]

yah the bolts are easy to get at I replaced the flex section between the front header/cat and the cat 3 years ago and all the bolts came right off pretty easily. Do you think that Amazon one would be fine I mainly just want it not to make so much noise, I was even considering a test pipe. lol

IDK. Mine was not CA legal and made in Canada is about all I can say. I couldn't be happier. Be sure your post cat O2 is good and preferably OE.

I look at the post cat O2 sensor O2 voltage to see if things are running good. Should be above .550v minimum and fairly steady when cruising.