Aeration of oil, and more...

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As some of you may know, I had "dealership #1" tell me that my idle speed controller was toast and it took the ECM with it. "Dealership #2" clarified that both are OK. They really impressed me, maybe they wanted my business so much that they pretended to be interested in my oil stuff. I have lifter noise at start-up and it lasts a few minutes. The mechanic (great guy) thought it could be caused by my RedLine or my by-pass oil filter, possible aeration of the oil as well, caused by the by-pass oil filter. He suggested by-passing the by-pass filter and also putting in plain dino oil.
Plans for a year from now
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but I searched and searched and found nothing on explanations of Group 1 vs Group 2 vs Group 3, PAO vs esters vs all that stuff. Anyone find links or confirm that there are none on BITOG? If so, PM or email me please, or I can set up a new topic.
Thanks!
 
....I had slight top end noise at start-up in my Tacoma V-6 this winter. It was in the cooler weather but not sub zero necessarily. I was using Redline 10/40 at the time, certainly too heavy for my application I think and not a reflection on the products quality. Switched to Mobil 10/30 at that time (mid Jan) and have had no noise since.

Am switching again now to Mobil's 5w40 Delvac 1 synthetic due to its claimed robust additive package, as it isn't a passenger car only product. I am not familiar with this "bypass filter" phenomenon but have seen references to it online. Would it cause aeration do you think based on the systems characteristics? Is it easy to bypass and install a regular filter......worth a try I'll bet. When using a bypass setup is maintaining the proper engine oil level more critical in preventing aeration or a dry start?
 
One more thing to consider. When using a by-pass system and a restrictive ,low micron, full flow filter could that not slow the flow of oil to the engine?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Neil Womack:
One more thing to consider. When using a by-pass system and a restrictive ,low micron, full flow filter could that not slow the flow of oil to the engine?

The bypass filter must have an orifice, maybe 0.040" (forty thousanths) for usual sized gasoline engines, or other flow control device, so it does not take a significant amount of oil from the oil system.

If the full flow filter is indeed correctly made to match the OEM filter designed as part of the engine, then the media flow and the bypass valve setting and flow will be OK. A tech rep from Baldwin/Hastings told me that the engine maker does not publish specs for the engines. It's up to the aftermarket filter maker to reverse engineer the OEM filter to develop the filter for that engine.


Ken
 
Neil, using a bypass and full-flow together (in parallel) will have higher flow/less restriction than the full-flow alone. Ignoring the bypass filter for a moment, yes, a restrictive filter would reduce oil supply, but like Ken said, if the filter maker is paying attention it should be in the ballpark of what's required. Add the bypass filter and flow improves by whatever small amount.

BTW, some makers do publish bypass specs for their engines. Grabbing one DC FSM that's handy:

3.9L Bypass 9-15psi
5.2L Bypass 9-15psi
5.9L not listed.

I recall a later manual (loaned to someone) showed the 5.2L spec but omitted it for their 4.0L. Hit or miss. No mention at all of flow requirements or such.

David
 
Thanks for the replies. All of the questions are echoed by me but none can be answered by me. It's been about 4 months since my change and the dipstick is a lovely tan, so the spin-on should have many months left of life on it, although I cannot recall what brand it is.
I have 3-4 ounces of Auto-RX in there. The by-pass filter is an EPS-20 by Oilguard, they said it filters 'maybe a quart per minute.'
David / OneQuartLow, What's a DC FSM?
BOB - Great link! Thanks!
Potentially
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but Sunday Mar 30th my car hit 160,000 KM (100,000 miles) and to celebrate I got up some hi engine revs on a hiway stretch. It made a funny smell that I suspect was burning oil, so of course any insights and I'm all ears.
Again, I thank you all
 
Whoops! Yep, Stuart's correct.

Rob, could be many things. A small leak or plastic bag caught somewhere warm. Look around the engine and underneath around the exhaust for signs of oil. Happy driving heats things up more, and will load up the top end with oil which can reveal leaks.
 
Well, it did that last summer, too, although I wrote down to consider asking a mechanic about more of a coolant smell.
Also, when I told my mechanic buddy that I had taken her up that high (last summer) he said hi RPM's weren't bad, challenged me to drive in a lower gear for a tankful, and I did. Gas mileage was the same so I went a whole month. No funny smells doing a steady 4000 instead of my usual "lower rpm's is better" thinking but after a month, I was down on my RedLine. But no smells unless I approach 5000 and stay there over a minute. Ideas??
Thanks!
 
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