Advice for Reliable used car
- Thread starter cls1989
- Start date
I did some planning and realized I can increase my budget to $15k. I searched 4 vehicles in my area and below are the averages for these vehicles in terms of cost, age, etc.
Now I believe someone in this thread said to avoid a specific engine type on the Honda CR-V?
Now I believe someone in this thread said to avoid a specific engine type on the Honda CR-V?
If it was not rusty and well maintained, the CRV/Element would be pretty good, although I don't think the Element ever got the NVH down before it was discontinued. I don't know what year the CRV gets better, our 2006 was pretty tinny, and I always thought a window was open a crack if I hadn't drove it for a while.
Honda CRV is a solid platform. The Acura equivalents are good too. I’ll put in the necessary plug for Volvo s60 / xc60 vehicles as well, avoiding the couple of years they had oil/ring issues. Gotta be prepared to do a little more maintenance than a Honda or Toyota, but the bones in these cars are good.
$15K for a 10 year old basic car. How the world has changed, and not for the better.
Yes and no.
If one is stuck on only few popular brands, yes you will need to overpay. It was true in the past and it’s true now. The only difference is that the premium is even greater now.
If one looks for models that are less popular, good deals can be had without sacrificing reliability.
Yeah, that does seem steep... A new Versa/Forte is $20k, Impreza $22k, Corolla hybrid is $23k. I would think the Corolla hybrid would be the lowest cost of ownership for 10 years then sell it, for 70% of its new price it seems!
Its useful to actually post what the question is rather than make people watch a 13 minute Youtube video.
Yes, the KA24 had a VIAS issue - its sort of ongoing. You can replace the whole gear, or just the spring. Seems to be about $1000 at the dealer. You can search for Honda VVT actuator or Honda Start up rattle here or on the interweb for lots of info.
Having NO experience with these, I'll say I wouldn't worry about it. He stands in a gravel driveway for 13 minutes and rambles about the locking pin in the VCT actuator.
At 9:15 he says Toyota is the answer because they keep things simple, but we know from results that's not true because Toyota has almost exactly the same problem (I can find you the CCN video if ya want). Ford may have pioneered the way here with the cam phasers in 3Vs starting in '04 which, again, suffer from almost exactly the same issue (I can cite the myriad FTM videos if necessary)
He also says he (needlessly) changed the oil hoping that would magically fix the problem. And admits he used 0W20. But I'm wondering if Honda owners are able to mitigate this with 5W30??
I don't think so - but I am all for thicker oil
The issue - as best I understand it - is there is a spring that pushes a pin to lock the cam phaser on cold start. If the pin doesn't lock the inner and outer parts of the phaser rattle. As soon as there is enough oil pressure for the phaser to actually work, they take over and the lock isn't an issue anymore - hence it only rattles at start up. Not sure how thicker oil would help in this case.
I read lots of threads. Some replaced the whole unit and the problem went away. Some replaced it and the problem came back. Some replaced only the spring with a stronger spring which resolved the problem. Some claim to never have the problem. I think there was actually a TSB
We had a ‘15 CRV bought used. We sold it with about 90k on it. I ran 5-20 oil in it. It was in one rear-end collision and one “accident avoidance” where it jumped a square curve and blew out both front tires.
Through our time with it:
- TSB for idle vibration, solved
- starter motor around 60k miles. These are known to wear the contacts early
- first brake job at 80k
- a couple of sets of tires
- battery at 6 years old or so
It was a fun car to drive and rocked the MPG, averaging 25-27 lifetime with AC and school pick-up idling. We sold it because there was a loud-ish noise creeping up under neighborhood “Christmas light speed” that sounded like an AC compressor but changed upon changing the ATF. When I suspected the CVT we sold it. These are not known for transmission problems - I would not hesitate to recommend a CRV.
Through our time with it:
- TSB for idle vibration, solved
- starter motor around 60k miles. These are known to wear the contacts early
- first brake job at 80k
- a couple of sets of tires
- battery at 6 years old or so
It was a fun car to drive and rocked the MPG, averaging 25-27 lifetime with AC and school pick-up idling. We sold it because there was a loud-ish noise creeping up under neighborhood “Christmas light speed” that sounded like an AC compressor but changed upon changing the ATF. When I suspected the CVT we sold it. These are not known for transmission problems - I would not hesitate to recommend a CRV.
1. Depending on how far you’re willing to search, you might find a S60, XC60, XC70 or an S80 with the T6 engine. I’d avoid the 4 and 5 cyl Volvo engines - they weren’t all that great starting in 2013 or so.
2. You can also look for a 2013-14+ Mitsubishi Outlander GT with the V6. I personally would avoid other trims with the I4 and CVT.
3. Maybe an older Malibu or Buick Regal with the 2.0 engine.
4. If you end up with a Corolla, maybe avoid the 10th gen (09-13). The 1.8s seem to blow their head gaskets at higher mileage and the 2.4s typically burn oil.
As much as I like 2nd Gen Focus (08-11) and the gen 1.5 Fusion - they both will have severe rocker rust with the salt. And as an owner of a 08 Focus - they’re find A to B cars. But you can tell Ford built the car to a price. My 05 Corolla is almost luxurious with the interior fit and finish in comparison.
2. You can also look for a 2013-14+ Mitsubishi Outlander GT with the V6. I personally would avoid other trims with the I4 and CVT.
3. Maybe an older Malibu or Buick Regal with the 2.0 engine.
4. If you end up with a Corolla, maybe avoid the 10th gen (09-13). The 1.8s seem to blow their head gaskets at higher mileage and the 2.4s typically burn oil.
As much as I like 2nd Gen Focus (08-11) and the gen 1.5 Fusion - they both will have severe rocker rust with the salt. And as an owner of a 08 Focus - they’re find A to B cars. But you can tell Ford built the car to a price. My 05 Corolla is almost luxurious with the interior fit and finish in comparison.
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I was going to say I must be out of touch with used car prices. It seems crazy thinking that's what it takes to buy a used car of that age with some miles on it.
Spring-Start.com and $40 for the newer stronger spring and you can DIY. Get the BIT from them also. You can also get the new wipers etc from them if you want to do more. Covered in many Honda forums. Just makes sure you block all with rags etc so you don't drop a screw or the bit in places you don't want.
There are also TSB's for the Cam chain tensioner that loses oil pressure when it sits. That could contribute more to future issues IMO but also easy to change.
I like this video where he takes apart a VTC actuator. Helped me understand how it works and the noise. Also on why when people replace the actuator not just spring they say to leave it UNLOCKED so you tighten against metal, not pin.
I am biased, but my CX-5 has been very reliable, is (relatively) fun to drive, and with proper winter tires, has no trouble climbing up 20%-grades covered in wet slush or deep snow. I also average 26.9 MPG, which isn't too terrible. My main concern would be what seem to be consumable lower control arms on the front end... but I live in a city with HORRIBLE roads on a giant hill.
Add the Pontiac Vibe to your list-it's a Matrix (i.e. Corolla wagon) in disguise!
Depending on what features the OP is looking at - Gen1 Vibes are more robust, especially the 05-08 but very very few of them seem to have side airbags. The Gen 2s are slightly more modern with ABS and Side airbags as standard, but it’s really just the 09MY with very few 10MY vehicles. These have the same issues with their engines as the gen10 Corolla / gen 2 Matrix (head gasket on the 1.8l engine and bad oil drinking habits on most, maybe all 2.4l engines).
Hard to believe the xB in my sig was under $14K new! It'll be 20 years old, 130,000 miles in February, and it seems to be very difficult to find anything newer that's not junk with less miles for... wait for it... UNDER FOURTEEN GRAND!!
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