I am planning as soon as the weather and temps improve to do a massive detail to the exterior of my car. What would you advise? Its a 7 year old car and I want it to look like new again. The finish is pretty good still. My dad recommended anything by mothers
advice for 1st detail
- Thread starter HACCOFFICER
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i an sure you will get many opinions here, and heres mine, lol, some may recomend a clay bar follwed by a polish and then topper wax, but if it's a daily 7yr old car, subjected to the harsh Pennsylvania winters, i'd probably go with a good strong wash, maybe even the dawn dishwashing liquid route to remove the crud, and then maybe the mothers car cleaner wax, like your dad said, the meguires car cleaner wax, or a good cleaner type paste..aka, turtle, kit, blah, blah. if your paint is still in good condition, you'll probably be amazed on how it comes out. alot of folks here seem to use the new finish. it's a synthetic, and seems to have somewhat of a following for a over the counter type wax. others like the more traditional caranuba waxes. they supposedly give a "warmer" deeper finish, although i think the downside is the durability isn't what the syn waxes have. actualy, a real option is to have a pro detail it for ya to get it back in shape, and then keep up on it from there. they have all the right tools and know the tricks of the trade. maybe even some are offering specials with coupons, etc...
Totally agree as this is my plan of action as well.
One of the reasons I purchased my 2001 car last year is it's colour and potential for restoration.
I have located a professional detailer who have indicated this will be possible using Meguiars professional products. I mentioned the use of Zaino to the rep, but he didn't seem very enthusiastic about the product. They will also detail the engine, undercarriage and interior for a reasonable fee.
Detailing is more about process than product. Focus on what needs to be done and when and worry about what brands to buy later.
The basic steps to a full exterior detail are:
1. Wash and dry
2. Clay the paint
3. Polish to remove paint defects
4. Protect with wax or sealant
There are a great series of detailing articles that explain these steps and how to get the best results from each. Have a look here: http://www.guidetodetailing.com/topics.php?topicId=17
The product suggestions are a little self-serving but the core information is excellent. Even if you have a good feel for what to do, the articles will help you with usable tips and tricks.
A car that has seen 7 winters is going to need some serious polishing. If there was one step to focus on, that's it. If you're going to do all this work by hand make sure you buy products formuated for hand use. Read the instructions carefully before you buy.
The idea of having a pro detailer work on your car is a good one IMO. They will likely have the tools and products to get your car looking great. From there are you have to do is maintain it.
If you want some thoughts on specific products you're looking at, let us know and we'll try to help.
Good luck!
The basic steps to a full exterior detail are:
1. Wash and dry
2. Clay the paint
3. Polish to remove paint defects
4. Protect with wax or sealant
There are a great series of detailing articles that explain these steps and how to get the best results from each. Have a look here: http://www.guidetodetailing.com/topics.php?topicId=17
The product suggestions are a little self-serving but the core information is excellent. Even if you have a good feel for what to do, the articles will help you with usable tips and tricks.
A car that has seen 7 winters is going to need some serious polishing. If there was one step to focus on, that's it. If you're going to do all this work by hand make sure you buy products formuated for hand use. Read the instructions carefully before you buy.
The idea of having a pro detailer work on your car is a good one IMO. They will likely have the tools and products to get your car looking great. From there are you have to do is maintain it.
If you want some thoughts on specific products you're looking at, let us know and we'll try to help.
Good luck!
Cool, thanks for all the advice. My car is going to look awesome come spring!!
I am going to do all this to my vehicle in a few months when it is warmer. For a 99, I think my paint is in great shape and when I wash and wax it, it looks brand new sans a few imperfections.
I do however have a few spots that I believe I could benefit from doing all this, plus it would look good and be good for my vehicle.
I've never done anything but wash and wax. My last waxing of the fall I used my stash up, so my products are gone. I used Meguiar's wax and I loved it. I want to try the clay. What is suggested for someone who's never used it? What brand?
Thanks,
marc
www.zainobros.com, just check out the site , seriously, it may seem expensive, but it pays for it self since he product last long and youll pay the same amoutn if your going to do all thes ecrazy steps people are telling you to do. I used meguairs, mothers, but im in love with zaino.
I've never done anything but wash and wax. My last waxing of the fall I used my stash up, so my products are gone. I used Meguiar's wax and I loved it. I want to try the clay. What is suggested for someone who's never used it? What brand?
If you were happy with the Meguiars stuff, I say keep using it. They make a wide variety of products and accessories for car detailing.
The two main clay products on the market are made by Mothers and Clay Magic. Both are excellent. The Mothers kit comes with a small bottle of cleaner wax (enough to wax your car once or twice) so its a little more expensive. You can find either at almost any auto parts store.
Do the claying step after you have washed and dried but before polishing. For a polish to remove or reduce scratches, scuffs and other rashes, try Meguiars Scratch X or Mothers Scratch Remover. Both are made to be used by hand and work pretty well. Follow up with the wax of your choice and you'll be good to go.
If you were happy with the Meguiars stuff, I say keep using it. They make a wide variety of products and accessories for car detailing.
The two main clay products on the market are made by Mothers and Clay Magic. Both are excellent. The Mothers kit comes with a small bottle of cleaner wax (enough to wax your car once or twice) so its a little more expensive. You can find either at almost any auto parts store.
Do the claying step after you have washed and dried but before polishing. For a polish to remove or reduce scratches, scuffs and other rashes, try Meguiars Scratch X or Mothers Scratch Remover. Both are made to be used by hand and work pretty well. Follow up with the wax of your choice and you'll be good to go.
Claybar for sure. Everything else is personal preference, IMHO.
For wax, I think the top brands are pretty much similar so far as shine/durability. I do think synthetic polymers last longer than carnuba.
Mothers carnuba is a PITA to use, IMHO.
I don't like cleaner wax or anything else that claims to polish, especially on an older car. The clay bar will remove all debris from the paint, then just put some coats of protection over it.
For what it's worth, I use Zaino waxes about twice yearly, and use Wax as you Dry every time I wash.
My truck is 9 years old, black with 130K miles on it. Still looks new when she's waxed, which is always. No swirls or anything.
For wax, I think the top brands are pretty much similar so far as shine/durability. I do think synthetic polymers last longer than carnuba.
Mothers carnuba is a PITA to use, IMHO.
I don't like cleaner wax or anything else that claims to polish, especially on an older car. The clay bar will remove all debris from the paint, then just put some coats of protection over it.
For what it's worth, I use Zaino waxes about twice yearly, and use Wax as you Dry every time I wash.
My truck is 9 years old, black with 130K miles on it. Still looks new when she's waxed, which is always. No swirls or anything.
I was on the Meguiar's site and they seem to have all I need. I might as well stick with what I like. They also have a claying system.
The Megiar's wax I used before was Gold Class Clear Coat Car Wax.
Thanks for the advice/info.
Sorry for the thread hijack
Marc
The Megiar's wax I used before was Gold Class Clear Coat Car Wax.
Thanks for the advice/info.
Sorry for the thread hijack
Marc
Get yourself a good chenille wash mitt and two buckets so you're using the "two bucket method". You might want to consider a second mitt so you have one dedicated to the paint above the body side molding and one for below. Wheels and tires can get their own cleaning mitts and or brushes too eventually as time and money allow.
Browse through this site he has good info on what to do and what to use (using over the counter products). http://www.ocdetails.com/html/basic_detailing.html
That's a nice link wystang, thanks.
marc
marc
http://www.autopia.org/ is the best place i've found for detailing info.
by far the best place to get info. I would use dawn to get all the old wax and dirt off the paint. will make claying alot easier and quicker. if you liek miquires products then I would use the NTX (is this right?) syn wax. it goes on and off eaiser and has a better shine than the gold class wax.
but on the site posted above they can give you alot of info to make your car paint pop again. but cant go wrong with zaino. or Klauss (SP) AOI
also what color vehicle do you have?
My vehicle is a dark green.
Awesome tips and suggestions.
I am thinking of claying, not sure. A polish seems like a good way to go. My exterior seems above average for a 99 (in my opinion).
Is a orbital tool required for any of these steps? Seems like it would make every step faster, but it can be dangerous, especially since I've never used one. Does one use the orbital to apply, remove or both?
If an orbital is required/recomended, what would be a good one for a person that's never used one? The cheaper the better, but I'd want a good one, not junk.
Thanks a lot all,
marc
I am thinking of claying, not sure. A polish seems like a good way to go. My exterior seems above average for a 99 (in my opinion).
Is a orbital tool required for any of these steps? Seems like it would make every step faster, but it can be dangerous, especially since I've never used one. Does one use the orbital to apply, remove or both?
If an orbital is required/recomended, what would be a good one for a person that's never used one? The cheaper the better, but I'd want a good one, not junk.
Thanks a lot all,
marc
my advice fwiw is to spend the next month or so reading tech articles & tips at autogeek, autopia, and properautocare. autopia forums have a whole section dedicated to machine polishing with a Porter Cable, refered to as PC. A buffer is probably never required since everything can always be done by hand, but a buffer will allow you to do a better job than you could do by hand and faster. Which is not to say a job done by hand isn't good enough.
Some products will specify for machine use only so don't use those by hand. Most all products that are done by hand can be done with an orbital. Normally you use an orbital for it's muscle to polish down clearcoat with an abrasive product but there are writeups on how to pop solid carnuba wax out of its jar, apply it to an orbital foam pad and apply it, then switch pads and remove the wax with a cotton or microfiber bonnet over a foam pad, to give you an idea. It's very versatile and imagination is the limit.
the preferred orbital, which everyone raves over, is the porter cable 7424, it has a 6" backing plate. Other model #'s are 7428 (7"), 7335 (5"), and 7336 (6"). I believe all are the same buffer machine, the difference are only in the size of the backing plate and the couterweights both which are accessories and can be easily bought and switched out. Not the cheapest at around $100-200 depending on the backing plate and if you get pads you get with it. But definitely one of the best in terms of quality and reliability. I've only read of 1 or 2 others, makita and maybe milwaukee, that have been used or can be used as auto detailing buffers (orbital not rotary) however I don't know how available pads and backing plates are for those. I think the foam pads, the good ones anyway, are all sized to fit the porter cable backing plate at 6 inches.
I picked up a 7336 with 3 or 4 foam pads from tropicare a while back on a group sale thru autopia for $151 shipped. With spring just around the corner, I'm sure they will be sales advertised over at autopia & autogeek from various sponsors on porter cable buffers, pads, and whole kits.
A good idea would be to plan out what you want to buy and get everything in one shot to save on shipping- if your not sure about claying still buy a jar of 1 or 2 bars for $20 because you will end up using it eventually. With polish either by hand or machine always use the finest or least abrasive to get the job done. If one isn't working, then step up to the next more aggressive polish, and so on. unfortunately you don't get the experience to know which to use or buy until after you spend the money to get a few different grades, try them, by which time your stuck with them.
Some products will specify for machine use only so don't use those by hand. Most all products that are done by hand can be done with an orbital. Normally you use an orbital for it's muscle to polish down clearcoat with an abrasive product but there are writeups on how to pop solid carnuba wax out of its jar, apply it to an orbital foam pad and apply it, then switch pads and remove the wax with a cotton or microfiber bonnet over a foam pad, to give you an idea. It's very versatile and imagination is the limit.
the preferred orbital, which everyone raves over, is the porter cable 7424, it has a 6" backing plate. Other model #'s are 7428 (7"), 7335 (5"), and 7336 (6"). I believe all are the same buffer machine, the difference are only in the size of the backing plate and the couterweights both which are accessories and can be easily bought and switched out. Not the cheapest at around $100-200 depending on the backing plate and if you get pads you get with it. But definitely one of the best in terms of quality and reliability. I've only read of 1 or 2 others, makita and maybe milwaukee, that have been used or can be used as auto detailing buffers (orbital not rotary) however I don't know how available pads and backing plates are for those. I think the foam pads, the good ones anyway, are all sized to fit the porter cable backing plate at 6 inches.
I picked up a 7336 with 3 or 4 foam pads from tropicare a while back on a group sale thru autopia for $151 shipped. With spring just around the corner, I'm sure they will be sales advertised over at autopia & autogeek from various sponsors on porter cable buffers, pads, and whole kits.
A good idea would be to plan out what you want to buy and get everything in one shot to save on shipping- if your not sure about claying still buy a jar of 1 or 2 bars for $20 because you will end up using it eventually. With polish either by hand or machine always use the finest or least abrasive to get the job done. If one isn't working, then step up to the next more aggressive polish, and so on. unfortunately you don't get the experience to know which to use or buy until after you spend the money to get a few different grades, try them, by which time your stuck with them.
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