Biodiesel tends to absorb water out of the atmosphere. Primrose makes an additive for biodiesel that is supposed to remove the water so it drops to the bottom of the tank. Are there any others? Would #131 Neutra work with biodiesel?
Additive for Biodiesel
- Thread starter hannaco
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What application?
Quality/age of the Biodiesel?
I wouldn't worry too much about water if you have quality B100 and burn through the tank of fuel often.
I'd would worry if the fuel tank were low usage or in storage(like generators, marine, boilers).
I'd stick with any diesel additive that removes water. Skip over the #131 and use the 137's diesel treats, or try the primrose/stanadyne/powerservice/.... products. Don't worry too much if they aren't "marketed" toward biodiesel.
Quality/age of the Biodiesel?
I wouldn't worry too much about water if you have quality B100 and burn through the tank of fuel often.
I'd would worry if the fuel tank were low usage or in storage(like generators, marine, boilers).
I'd stick with any diesel additive that removes water. Skip over the #131 and use the 137's diesel treats, or try the primrose/stanadyne/powerservice/.... products. Don't worry too much if they aren't "marketed" toward biodiesel.
Are you an 'emulsifier man' or a 'demulsifier man' :^)
So far I prefer demulsifiers, like Stanadyne, as you don't know how much water you may be trying to emulsify. A two stage system seems to make sense, with a demulsifier followed by an emulsifier for the remainder of water in the fuel, but I don't know of anyone who makes such a system. Demulsifying / water separation systems seem to be heavily favored among marine diesels.
So far I prefer demulsifiers, like Stanadyne, as you don't know how much water you may be trying to emulsify. A two stage system seems to make sense, with a demulsifier followed by an emulsifier for the remainder of water in the fuel, but I don't know of anyone who makes such a system. Demulsifying / water separation systems seem to be heavily favored among marine diesels.
I've been using the 137AND for this time of year and will be using the 137ND for summer use and so far I'm happy with it and it only costs about a penny or 2 a gallon to put in so I'm not going to go broke using it either.
Storage tank is about 3000 gallons. Wet in winter and humid in the summer. The biodiesel just seems to suck the water out of the air. The options are somewhat limited. Running an air trace to a bubblier in the tank, or adding chemicals to handle the water. I don't like the idea of just using an emulsifier. The water is still going through the injectors where it can flash to steam, and do bad things. The old style low pressure injectors are less of a worry, but the new high pressure injectors generate higher temps.
The worst possible conditions, big tank, wet humid weather.... are you a B100 producer/distributor?
why do you have a 3000 gallon tank?
What is the turnover time on that tank?
Have you looked into the water separating fuel filters for the storage tank? or for the equipment using this fuel?
I think that running the air bubbler is the best solution IF you have a drain on the bottom of the tank to remove water prior to pumping the B100 to whatever you use it in. Does the tank have a sight glass? can you actually see that excessive water?
I really wouldn't worry about water unless you can prove that there is 'excessive' water.
3000 gallons is a lot of fuel to treat.
You should get in content with the additive manufacturers directly and see what they have to say about your fuel type and storage situation.
why do you have a 3000 gallon tank?
What is the turnover time on that tank?
Have you looked into the water separating fuel filters for the storage tank? or for the equipment using this fuel?
I think that running the air bubbler is the best solution IF you have a drain on the bottom of the tank to remove water prior to pumping the B100 to whatever you use it in. Does the tank have a sight glass? can you actually see that excessive water?
I really wouldn't worry about water unless you can prove that there is 'excessive' water.
3000 gallons is a lot of fuel to treat.
You should get in content with the additive manufacturers directly and see what they have to say about your fuel type and storage situation.
GAREK(Global Afrika Research & Energy Corp. Ltd.), is introducing a new Eco-Fuel(DFM) that includes water in its formulation with diesel fuel. Some rocket scientist has found a way to encapsulate tiny water droplets into diesel fuel.
Emission reduction, reduced particulate matter, and fuel economy are being touted.
Supposedly the emulsion is completely stable. Their emulsion contains 10% water. So may be a little water in the fuel is not a bad thing.
Anyone ever heard of this stuff?
Emission reduction, reduced particulate matter, and fuel economy are being touted.
Supposedly the emulsion is completely stable. Their emulsion contains 10% water. So may be a little water in the fuel is not a bad thing.
Anyone ever heard of this stuff?
Tank dry. http://www.schaefferoil.com/datapdf/301.pdf
Then the premium DT 2000 137 line. 1 gal per 2k summer treat ment 1 gal per 1k winter ( same as a 70/30 blend)
Then the premium DT 2000 137 line. 1 gal per 2k summer treat ment 1 gal per 1k winter ( same as a 70/30 blend)
slight water is not a problem to burn but it will grow a lot of filter plugging bacteria on the tank bottom as well as corrosion to tank if steel there are biocide/dispersants avalible for this.
Try Garratt-Callahan Company (www.g-c.com) ask for Jim tell them the "lube" guy sent you. LOL
bruce
Try Garratt-Callahan Company (www.g-c.com) ask for Jim tell them the "lube" guy sent you. LOL
bruce
Part of the Garek technology in coupling in water, is that the tiny water droplets are completely surounded in the coupling technology.
They claim that with their technology bacterial contamination is not an issue. They also claim that the water droplets never directly contact any metal parts while running it in the motor.
They claim that with their technology bacterial contamination is not an issue. They also claim that the water droplets never directly contact any metal parts while running it in the motor.
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