Adding bypass, should I add oil cooler also?

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bmklawt

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I have a 2005 Silverado 5.3L.
While contemplating how to install a Motorguard bypass filter I found out that larger motors with the same engine block as mine come with oil coolers so I purchased a hose assemble for a cooler at a junk yard.
The hose assemble has an aluminum block with the two oil cooler hoses coming out of it, I planned on modifying the adapter that bolts to the engine block by drilling and taping a hole into the inlet and outlet ports for the Motorguard to hook up to and connecting the inlet and out let hoses that would go the oil cooler together. Will that work? Maybe I just need to machine a block from scratch. The full flow of oil goes thought the cooler then to the OEM filter. Right now on my truck there is a plate covering the inlet and outlet ports that allows the oil to flow through.
Would it be for great benefit to add an oil cooler as long as I am going through the trouble of adding a bypass filter?
Your help in this matter is greatly appreciated.

Bruce
 
Mount the intake of the bypass filter to a "T" with the intake for the cooler. Mount the exit from the bypass to the exit from the cooler.This is tricky because you need a "Y" fitting, not a "T" fitting. Remove the restrictor fitting from the Motorguard. Hook up the Motorguard and you are good to go.

If you try using a "T" fitting on the exit from the cooler, it might work. Trying to "T" two input hoses into a single outlet usually will not work, but the flow from the Motorguard is low so that might be adequate.
 
quote:
I planned on modifying the adapter that bolts to the engine block by drilling and taping a hole into the inlet and outlet ports for the Motorguard to hook up to and connecting the inlet and out let hoses that would go the oil cooler together.
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If I read this correctly, what you're suggesting is to run the MG in parallel to a straight piece of hose. This won't do anything.

If you can get regular NPT or AN/JIC fittings put on the end of the OEM crimped hose (or whatever they use to attach it to a cooler) then do as carock suggests and run the MG in parallel to the cooler. I'm not quite sure what he's getting at with the "Y" thing ..but essentially is sounds "sound" to me. The cooler will always produce a differential across it. That should be able to induce flow through the MG.

You can also drill and tap as you initially intended ..but you'll have to run the normal path through some kind of restriction ..a cooler being the most sensible installation. You could always just keep adding hose lenght (visions of longer and longer coils of hose accumulating under the hood) until the length represents enough restistance to make the MG work on the differential.
 
quote:

You could always just keep adding hose lenght (visions of longer and longer coils of hose accumulating under the hood) until the length represents enough restistance to make the MG work on the differential.
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Or you could add a check valve to the end of the cooler so that the valve and the cooler would be parallel with the motorguard. The check valve will add a psi or two of pressure (the cracking pressure) to start some flow across your motorguard.
 
quote:
Originally posted by mjo:

quote:

You could always just keep adding hose lenght (visions of longer and longer coils of hose accumulating under the hood) until the length represents enough restistance to make the MG work on the differential.
Click to expand...
Or you could add a check valve to the end of the cooler so that the valve and the cooler would be parallel with the motorguard. The check valve will add a psi or two of pressure (the cracking pressure) to start some flow across your motorguard.
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grin.gif
LOL! Yes. When I said "just keep adding hose" it was without a cooler ..since that appeared (read) that this was his original plan. But, yes, any fitting (vavle or whatever) should have an inherent resistance/restriction.
 
Thanks for the replies so far.

Yes I would love a picture of your set-up rmattingley.

I'm more confused now than before, I could not figure out how I would get flow thru the Motorguard if I installed the Motorguard in the plate the covers the inlet outlet ports for the oil cooler. If I installed an aftermarket oil cooler would that work if I paralleled the Motorguard with the cooler as far from the cooler as possible?

Explain the check valve some more, I am totally confused on that one.

rmattingley I like your idea, but I was thinking if I tied into the cooler hose and needed warrantee repairs I could disconnect the cooler hose and leave it dangling and put the original cover back on.
 
I did my 5.3 about 6 months ago. Here is what I did.

I took that little cover plate and drilled and tapped it to 1/4 npt. I mounted my motor guard on the firewall right below the hood on the drivers side. Then I retruned the oil through the oil fill cap. I can send some pictures if you want.
 
If I installed an aftermarket oil cooler would that work if I paralleled the Motorguard with the cooler as far from the cooler as possible?


Yes. The cooler will always have a pressure differential. Any differential will induce flow through the MG. The further from the cooler that you tap in ..the higher, although fractionally, the differential.
 
I have thought about using a spring loaded check valve in the fluid line to the cooler. I would have to make sure the fluid is going thru the check valve in the right direction. That way it wouldn't matter which size the line is or how much the flow. I have one that looks like it would be perfect. It has 1/2" ports with a 1/8" pipe plug in the bottom for a line to the bypass filter. The oil could be returned by installing a tee at the outlet. www.Granger.com stock # 5X782

Ralph
burnout.gif
 
rmattingley, nice job and thanks for the photos.

A few more questions.
How do I know if there is enough pressure differential for the MG if I use an oil cooler? The hose length on the oil cooler is 23” to the cooler.

I am thinking. If you look at the 3rd picture of rmattingley’s install, you can see the bypass plate where you can install the hoses for the oil cooler (it has the brass plumbing coming out of it)
If I tapped into that bypass plate to install the inlet and outlet for the MG and put a check valve in the line, wouldn’t that work? Doesn’t the oil pump, pump more oil than can go through the bypass plate so some oil would have to go through the MG?
Am I all wrong on this? Or is this what RalphPWood just said?

Anybody out there willing to hold my hand while I do this project?

Everybody, I thank you very much for your information thus far.
 
Only problem I can see happening is that there isn't alot of room down there to route hoses. The exaust and driveline are right there. As you can see from my pictures I had to use brass to route the lines in the right direction. If you are going to go for a check valve setup, I would highly recommend using the permacool universal adapter method. Another advantage is that you can take it off for warrenty work. The only reason I didn't go with a permacool, is that I ordered the wrong adapter(I orderd the gm one instead of universal, it doesn't have the check valve)
Another benifit of using the sandwich adapter is that in the rare occasion a fiber of paper gets through, it is trapped by the full flow filter.
 
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