Acetone free brake/parts cleaner?

I see people recommend electronics / contact cleaners . That stuff is useless unless you just want to flush the dirt or dust off of something .
In my line of work I had the occasion to use all sorts of cleaners and contact cleaner was by far the worst .
 
Should I wait for the motorcycle to cool down before using it directly on the caliper piston?
Afraid it will damage the o ring where the caliper piston is connected Want to know whether chlorine, acetone and other related ingredients will attack NBR or EPDM, plastic?
 
Most of these solvents can be/aren’t good to interact with.

I was really just interested because this was the recommended cleaner:

https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/brake-parts-cleaner-p000544.html#3318

https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pdf/en_US/liqui/46/P000544


Of course. Couldn’t unpaint finger and toenails unless we can have acetone…
Our bodies can make acetone.
Hexane is guaranteed to screw you up(in high enough doses) and many pro mechs do suffer, at a sufficient scale, neurotoxicity symptoms.
 
Our bodies can make acetone.
Hexane is guaranteed to screw you up(in high enough doses) and many pro mechs do suffer, at a sufficient scale, neurotoxicity symptoms.
If the instructions request acetone free, then we need to be cognizant of that.
 
Of topic a little, but what did they use in the "old days" before the advent of pressurized cans like we have now?

I sorta remember gasoline and a brush, but that was before my time.
Back in the early 70's we used a horsehair brush and an air gun to blow off parts; if I got oil or grease on a drum liner or brake disc I would wet a shop rag with some "kerosene" from the parts washer and wipe it down.

Not for cleaning, but we had CRC 556 in spray cans for use as a penetrant oil. Thought it was better than WD 40. We used to do comparisons between the two when a rusty exhaust would come in that want just being cut off or split with an air chisel.

This was not the "old days" but more recently, about a half a century ago, lol.
 
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