AC blows cold for 10-15 seconds then warm 2010 Honda Fit

[Andrew1972]

Originally Posted By: Blue_Goose
Originally Posted By: mk378
The air should be about as cold as the line is. If the air is coming out warm or hot even though the evaporator is cold, consider that the heater may not be turning off fully when the dial is on full cold. This was a common problem on older Hondas which had a coolant valve on the firewall.


The tube that is supposed to be cold initially starts out very cold but the longer the AC is on the less chilly that tube becomes.


It is odd how it will be cool for a little bit, turn off for like 5 minutes, rinse, repeat.....cold air....slowly gets warm.......turn off...wait.....and so on and so on


That is what a failing AC relay did on wife's former 2005 Subaru Legacy and also my 2007 Acura MDX......Both fixed for under $10 in 10 mins.....But I stated that before and not sure it is your culprit.

 

[Blue_Goose]

Originally Posted By: mk378
You need pressure readings.

I'm not saying this is it, but when my car started doing exactly that, it was the expansion valve. It is about a $25 part though of course you have to remove and replace the refrigerant to replace it.



Has an appointment at a different dealer Saturday morning. Thank you for your help! Hopefully it is something like that

 

[SatinSilver]

As mentioned, try replacing the AC relay for little money before taking it anywhere else.

 

[mk378]

If the compressor stays engaged all the time though it quits getting cold, it is not the relay. If the compressor drops out and doesn't cut back on, then it could likely be the relay. The OP said the situation was the first case, though now that he has extended access to the car he should do more observations to confirm that.

There are usually several relays all of the same type in the fuse/relay box and you can swap them around with one that isn't important right now, like the rear defogger.

 

[JGmazda]

Messing with the AC system (If you're not trained or knowledgeable) can be an exercise in futility and empty your wallet accordingly. There are multiple pressures and components to examine. At this point - It could be ANYTHING.

Have a reliable shop check the High/Low pressures and also the system functions. Well worth the money instead of guessing. IMHO...

 

[Blue_Goose]

Ok bringing the car in to dealer tomorrow, new development

She just got home on her hour commute and she said it nothing but hot air is coming out now. The fans still kick on but from I can see and hear, the compressor does not now. The return pipe that was cold before is now hot. No cold at all

No tell tale puddle of condensation under car either


So before the dealer jumps right to a new compressor, is it normal for the compressor not to run if there isn't enough pressure or if all the refrigerant has leaked out or would it run regardless?

Again wild guess, just trying to have a tiny bit of knowledge so the dealer doesn't steamroll me

 

[mk378]

Compressor does not engage but the fan does means you should check the relay first, since it's a known lemon part on these particular cars.

If you have a voltmeter there are some electrical tests you can do yourself. Like checking if the compressor clutch wire is getting power.

Yes if all the refrigerant leaks out every car has a pressure switch or sensor that will cause the compressor to not engage, so it isn't damaged by running "dry". But that is not all going to happen in one day unless there is a new leak. If only some leaks out the compressor will still engage but not get cold.

 

[chrome]

Sounds like the compressor relay is intermittent. On Hondas, you may be able to swap the relay with another one within the same relay/fuse box. On an Odyssey, I swapped the horn relay in to check and the compressor kicked on again, so that's a free confirmed diagnosis.

 

[Blue_Goose]

Well the diagnosis at the dealer was as follows. Low pressure prevented the compressor from coming on. They did an evac and fill of the system and now things are working as they should. I asked if they detected any leaks in the system and they said no leaks at all.

Is it possible to mess up recharging the system? She had it done at another dealer a few months ago?

They also put a new serpentine belt in



Oh and I bought a new 2018 Civic Hatchback EX while there but that's another story lol


I guess we will see how long her AC lasts

 

[mk378]

New car... that'll fix it.

The only way refrigerant goes away is if it leaks out or someone removes it.

 

[Blue_Goose]

New car is for me

Interesting.....well they said no leaks in system so......I guess we will find out in a few months

 

[Blue_Goose]

AND.....no AC again...going back to the dealer this afternoon

 

[Piston_slap]

Sounds like some Cracker-Jack technicians at your dealership. How do they stay open?

 

[Blue_Goose]

Just got back from the dealer and this is the verdict according to them:


"Test Drove vehicle and confirmed A/C started blowing warm. Inspected compressor clutch, compressor clutch inoperable Swapped compressor relay for known good relay, no change, noticed compressor clutch relay hot. Tested for power at the compressor. Compressor getting power but inoperable.

Recommend replacing compressor and compressor relay."



Then in the followup notes they say: Replace A/C Compressor and A/C Compressor Clutch Relay (A/C Compressor clutch rusted and intermittent inoperable)

They originally quoted almost $1900 for Honda parts, car probably isn't even worth 1500. Aftermarket came in to the tune of $1094


I'm a little confused where they say replace compressor relay above and in the closing notes about the compressor clutch relay and the clutch being rusted.


This sound plausible? Price seems crazy to me but then again I've never dealt with an AC repair before