A fun day changing oil...

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I found one thing I don't like about my truck today. The awful cluster**** of an oil filter location.

I knew my truck was going to be bad to change the oil on, which is why until today I had always taken it to a shop. Today I decided to do it myself to save some time and money...right.

First I hit up the stores. I needed a new drain pan, so I picked one up at Advance. They charged me for 12 of them, and I wasn't paying attention when the clerk swiped my card. I caught the mistake and got credited my $22 back, but of course since I used my card it's going to be a week before it actually goes back into my account. Funny how they can charge your account right away, but it takes days to get the money back when THEY mess up. I probably should have just demanded a cash refund, but I just wanted to get on my way. So I had my Motorcraft 5W20 and FL400s, one drain pan, and other odds and ends.

I decided to buy a set of those plastic ramp things to get better access to the oil filter which I knew would be hard to reach. Stupid things didn't look like much, but it said they can handle an 8,000 lb. vehicle, so I got them. I had to go to O'Reilly for those because everyone else was sold out of the 8,000 lb. ones and only had the more expensive 12,000 lb. ones.

So I had all my stuff and was ready to get to work. I looked to see if the filter could be removed from the top side of the engine. I after seeing the mess of lines, steering shaft, frame, and whatnot in the way I thought "no way." I drive the truck up on the useless ramp things to get to the filter from below. Suspicious of the tight gap between the starter and a heat shield that the filter would have to go through, I took out the new FL400S to see if it would fit. Not happening. I backed the truck off the stupid ramp things and started working my way towards the filter from the top. It wouldn't budge by hand, so I had to get it with a wrench. Unfortunately, I only have the cup style wrench that goes on a socket, and of course needs a lot of room to be used. Interestingly, the wrench would not go on from the top, but would go on from the bottom. I got it loose enough to turn by hand from below, then removed it the rest of the way from the top. I had to squeeze my hand between the hot exhaust manifold and steering shaft to reach it, then push the filter back behind the steering shaft and frame and up through Ford's ingenious maze of wires and whatever else they could cram into that side of the engine compartment.

Next, I oiled up the gasket on the new filter and tried to get it back down there. This was the real fun part. I was trying to get the filter down there without getting dirt on the gasket, which is nearly impossible when you have no room to work. I couldn't see the mount for the filter, so I just had to feel for it. The only way to turn the filter at all is to put your hand between the exhaust manifold and steering shaft, so of course my arm got burned and scratched the whole time. It basically looks like I was attacked by a rabid dog. Anyway, I had to put on a glove to finish tightening the filter, but I finally got it on after a lot of four letter words and pain.

Thankfully the rest of the job was fairly uneventful, but the filter was ridiculous. I have changed oil on a lot of cars, but this one has to be within the top five of the worst I've done. I've even changed the oil on Vulcan engine Taurii before, but with FWD it's not that hard. It's clear that the 3.0 was an afterthought in the Ranger.

Anybody want to buy some useless ramps?
 
Hey... I would get a filter relocation kit so that you can mount the filter in a more accessible spot.

Also how come you have to wait a week to get your money back? It's not instant?

Our Debit up here takes the money out of your account right away and puts it back right away... How do they know if you don't have the money if it takes a week to come out of your account?
 
Yeah, what is the retail on a oil change? 30-40? Now go and pay retail not sale price for 5 qts. at 3 each and 4/5 filter=22-23 dollars. If even 50 is normal for the oil change just what 20~ labor savings vs. DIY. Yes with sales better deals abound, but can take self purchased oil/filter so some shops and will change for 10-20. This is why many who can don't change oil. A cautionary tale. IMHO. Useless, really my post not the OP question.
 
Do you have the Haynes manual for your truck? I wonder if there's something you can move out of the way...
 
My 4 cylinder is probably the easiest filter change ever. I'll do 100 oil changes on my truck before I'll do one on my parents old montana with the filter on an angle and tucked away amongst a mess of cables and plastic.
 
Yeah I had a 2.3 liter Ranger. Mine was the old Lima engine and it was super easy to do. I did not need ramps or anything. Another thought would be to look into a longer lasting filter and maybe do 2 oil changes with that one filter?
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC


Also how come you have to wait a week to get your money back? It's not instant?

Our Debit up here takes the money out of your account right away and puts it back right away... How do they know if you don't have the money if it takes a week to come out of your account?

Oh, they take the money out right away, but they don't put it back right away. I've returned things there before. It takes a minimum of three or four days to show up.

Quote:
Yeah, what is the retail on a oil change? 30-40? Now go and pay retail not sale price for 5 qts. at 3 each and 4/5 filter=22-23 dollars. If even 50 is normal for the oil change just what 20~ labor savings vs. DIY. Yes with sales better deals abound, but can take self purchased oil/filter so some shops and will change for 10-20. This is why many who can don't change oil. A cautionary tale. IMHO. Useless, really my post not the OP question.

On this truck I may just leave it for the shop to do. I like the satisfaction of knowing how tight the filter was put on, how clean the funnel I used was, etc. I want the job to be done perfectly or close to it, but the filter on this truck is a real challenge.

On the other hand, the last person to drain the oil (someone at a dealer) went nuts on the drain plug and tightened the heck out of it. Luckily it wasn't stripped. Stuff like that is why I like to do it myself.

Quote:
Do you have the Haynes manual for your truck? I wonder if there's something you can move out of the way...


Nothing can be removed easily. The things in the way are the starter, master cylinder, exhaust manifold, steering shaft, and electrical wires...stuff that I don't want to mess with during an oil change.

Quote:
My 4 cylinder is probably the easiest filter change ever. I'll do 100 oil changes on my truck before I'll do one on my parents old montana with the filter on an angle and tucked away amongst a mess of cables and plastic.

My 2001 2.5L (Lima I4) was incredibly easy too. I loved changing oil on that truck. There was tons of room around the filter. Also, it took exactly five quarts of oil, so I'd just dump in a whole 5 quart jug when it was time to fill it up. Changing the transmission fluid was even easier than an engine oil change too! The only bad maintenance item on that truck was the spark plugs, since it had 8 of them and four were hidden under the intake manifold.
 
huh... Ours is instant in & out... Then again we have had debit for years...
grin2.gif
 
My 1996 Ford Contour has the 2.0L Zetec four. The oil filter is buried beneath the engine on the rear passenger side. It's jammed in around the exhaust and drive axle. For years I'd drive it up on ramps to change the oil. The filter was darn near impossible to remove when the suspension was compressed. Now I drain the oil while the car is on the ground, I can get under enough to do it. Then I jack up the front passenger side, with the tire removed, to relax the suspension. Now removing the filter is a piece of cake without dumping oil all over and fighting to remove the oil filter from between the suspension and exhaust. The same goes for installing the new filter.

Whimsey
 
Funny how you don't like the ramps. I bought the 12000 lb set because they were wider, and love them. For more years than I care to remember I'd jack up or crawl under the vehicles. Now drive up and 1-2-3 easy as pie. Must be a really bad filter location. You can try putting an extension bar on your cup wrench and use that with the cup wrench from under the truck. I use about a 12" extension and found it real easy to get the PIA filter off the 08 Jeep 3.7L that way. Then I put the filter into the cup wrench, attach the extension and feed it up to get it on. Sometimes swivels and extensions work well too. The less hands and arms come in contact with hot metal the better!
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Funny how you don't like the ramps. I bought the 12000 lb set because they were wider, and love them. For more years than I care to remember I'd jack up or crawl under the vehicles. Now drive up and 1-2-3 easy as pie. Must be a really bad filter location. You can try putting an extension bar on your cup wrench and use that with the cup wrench from under the truck. I use about a 12" extension and found it real easy to get the PIA filter off the 08 Jeep 3.7L that way. Then I put the filter into the cup wrench, attach the extension and feed it up to get it on. Sometimes swivels and extensions work well too. The less hands and arms come in contact with hot metal the better!



demar, If you're addressing me it's not that I don't like ramps. But to best remove my oil filter the suspension needs to be "relaxed" to navigate around the suspension. I have the Rhino 12,000 lb ramps and love them for "other things" requiring ramps. They are much better than the yellow steel ramps I used previously.

Whimsey
 
Your 3.0 Ranger is a breeze. Once you are under the truck, place a rag over the top of the starter. Then with a flt wrench that has a swivel handle loosen the flt and bring it out. Did it for years.

Try the 99 Lexas 3.0 V6. Got to be the dumbest flt location there is. Almost impossible on a hot engine. Now that I think about it, it's almost impossible on a cold engine as well.
 
01RangerXL, not that I'm trying to chase you outta here, but why not cross-post your story above on a Ford Ranger's forum to see how other owners deal with the awkward placement of the filter?
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Originally Posted By: Whimsey
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Funny how you don't like the ramps. I bought the 12000 lb set because they were wider, and love them. For more years than I care to remember I'd jack up or crawl under the vehicles. Now drive up and 1-2-3 easy as pie. Must be a really bad filter location. You can try putting an extension bar on your cup wrench and use that with the cup wrench from under the truck. I use about a 12" extension and found it real easy to get the PIA filter off the 08 Jeep 3.7L that way. Then I put the filter into the cup wrench, attach the extension and feed it up to get it on. Sometimes swivels and extensions work well too. The less hands and arms come in contact with hot metal the better!



demar, If you're addressing me it's not that I don't like ramps. But to best remove my oil filter the suspension needs to be "relaxed" to navigate around the suspension. I have the Rhino 12,000 lb ramps and love them for "other things" requiring ramps. They are much better than the yellow steel ramps I used previously.

Whimsey


I was replying to 01rangerxl, but understand about the suspension needing to be relaxed. Some of these vehicles can be a royal PIA to work on. There is a learning curve with them and once you do the job a few times you find all the little work arounds. You found the relaxed suspension trick. I fried my arm on a Cat converter and can promise you it will never happen again!

I used ramps one or two times and they never clicked for me. As I get older I look for easy ways out, I'm lazy now. The ramps work great for certain jobs, the metal ones aren't as good as the Rhino ramps, I guess that's why they didn't click for me. But those Rhino ramps do beat the floor jack, jack-stand routine I was doing. I'm glad I have them now.
 
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
I found one thing I don't like about my truck today. The awful cluster**** of an oil filter location.



This is on a 2002?

We have several 3.0L Rangers here at the office and although I've never wrenched on one they don't look to be tricky to reach the filter, although I'll admit the only ones I've looked under the hood are the 96s, 97s and 99s we have. Maybe by 2002 there was more "stuff" down there in the way.
 
I assume you have a 3.0 as well. First time I did an OC, it took me about an hour. The factroy filter was on so tight, and I couldn't get the filter out from underneath once I did get it off.

That was when the truck was new (2002). I've been changing the oil every 4K, and now it has 183K on it, and it takes me about 5 minutes now to change the oil in her.

My trick is to loosen the filter from the top, and fish it backwards underneath the exaust manifold, then twist it around the steering shaft, then up between the ABS module and battery. Installation is the reverse of removal. As far as the the angle the filtter catches the treads on, it may take a few changes, but I can mount the filter on the threads in one shot now. It took about 3 or 4 changes of fumbling with the filter for it to catch.

By the way, you have made an excellent choice on MC oil and filter combo.
 
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Originally Posted By: TurboLuver
Been here since 06 and this is the first time you changed your own oil?
LOL.gif



Oh no. I changed it all the time on my 2001 Ranger. That truck was fun. I also changed oil for work. It was a piece of cake. This truck is another matter though. I'll give anyone who can change its oil without one burn or scrape $100.
 
Originally Posted By: css9450
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
I found one thing I don't like about my truck today. The awful cluster**** of an oil filter location.



This is on a 2002?

We have several 3.0L Rangers here at the office and although I've never wrenched on one they don't look to be tricky to reach the filter, although I'll admit the only ones I've looked under the hood are the 96s, 97s and 99s we have. Maybe by 2002 there was more "stuff" down there in the way.

'98 and up models will be different from 1997 and older models.

They definitely don't look as tricky as they are. Again, I'll give $100 to anyone who can remove the filter without one burn or scrape.
 
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