98 Buick lesabre,p0420 code, o2 sensors?cat?
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Ziggy,
Just slow down and proof read your posts. I proof read my posts two or three times before posting the post.
Sometimes I even edit the post two or three times afterwards.
Just slow down and proof read your posts. I proof read my posts two or three times before posting the post.
Sometimes I even edit the post two or three times afterwards.
Ok guys..cmon...enough!
The tensioner in picture above..on the right,theirs 2 of those housing tubes. They have black plastic connectors in them,ontop.on the backside of the tensionet,at the bottom,below those 2 connectors,is a small part of the bracket,with a o ring around it.that's what broke.
The tensioner in picture above..on the right,theirs 2 of those housing tubes. They have black plastic connectors in them,ontop.on the backside of the tensionet,at the bottom,below those 2 connectors,is a small part of the bracket,with a o ring around it.that's what broke.
Today,I got the new felpro gaskets in,the plastic sidebars,in the intake. Used a generous amount of supplies black rtv. I got the intake head on,flawlessly,but....because the Delco torque adapter is too big too fit in 3 in the areas,too tighten bolts,I reversed the Delco ,so in this order...ratchet,delco,small extension, 3/4 bit. Normally it should be, ratchet,extension,delco,then the bit. I tightened thise,too about 201 inch lbs,since it n be a read,half read in the reverse order setup. The rest, 3 sequences,and went too 191 inch lbs. Think that's ok?
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This am,imma install the tensioner, fuel rail, hoses,connectors, coolant and hope I did a good job!
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Are you saying the black nipples that the heater hoses press onto is what broke ?
As far as the torque adapter, you should be using the same adapter and extension orientation on all the bolts; that way the final torque is the same on all the bolts. I can't understand why on some of the bolts you had to set the torque adapter to 201 inch pounds.
As far as the torque adapter, you should be using the same adapter and extension orientation on all the bolts; that way the final torque is the same on all the bolts. I can't understand why on some of the bolts you had to set the torque adapter to 201 inch pounds.
I didn't set it too 201 inch lbs,I had set them too 190. In this,reverse orientation ratchet setup, it jumped too 201 when torqing. I guess it should be the original setup,but had no choice,as the Delco woul dnt fit.
Those plastic nipples,going down too the base of the tensioner,very bottom of unit,in back, theirs no second elbow,a small housing with o ring on it,that fits into the block,a. Coolant passage,and has a small hol e. The top broke off that. The only elbow on this, is the one that goes into the bottom of intake area. The common elbow. That's the only elbow . It's not possible too install a second elbow,as it would just point out too s ides,up,dow n. They made this,so we hat small housing fits into the blick,rear of unit.the elbow,would never fit. Theirs no hole for the second elbow backside and bottom of tensioner.
Those plastic nipples,going down too the base of the tensioner,very bottom of unit,in back, theirs no second elbow,a small housing with o ring on it,that fits into the block,a. Coolant passage,and has a small hol e. The top broke off that. The only elbow on this, is the one that goes into the bottom of intake area. The common elbow. That's the only elbow . It's not possible too install a second elbow,as it would just point out too s ides,up,dow n. They made this,so we hat small housing fits into the blick,rear of unit.the elbow,would never fit. Theirs no hole for the second elbow backside and bottom of tensioner.
The bottom elbow may be integral with the tensioner frame in that version, in which case you use only one detachable elbow,the one with the two ends the same. The bottom elbow fits into the water pump, not the "blick".
The two holes in the top of the tensioner frame are for the adapter nipples that go to the heater hoses. Those seldom have a problem.
The two holes in the top of the tensioner frame are for the adapter nipples that go to the heater hoses. Those seldom have a problem.
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I didn't know they had a series of engines that used only one coolant elbow. Usually there's two: one that goes from the tensioner to the water pump and one that goes from the tensioner to the lower intake manifold.
When you buy a new tensioner, they don't come with the heater hose nipples. I always thought that was ridiculous. Those nipples are very hard to find new.
When you buy a new tensioner, they don't come with the heater hose nipples. I always thought that was ridiculous. Those nipples are very hard to find new.
Yes..I looked and worked over it thoroughly merkava! Theirs 1 elbow.it was plastic,unbroken,in good shape actualy. The opposite end from that,across too where the 2 hoses connect on tensioner ontop,the back bottom, is a small part of the tensioner casing,with an o ring around it. In the block,theirs a hole,that casing fits directly into. Today,I had a hard time getting the middle bolt in,tensuoner.it's mostly in,like 97,98% but not flush or tight.gonna attempt it tomorrow morning,maybe use some of blaster.it did not want too go in 100%,the bolt!maybe switch the bolts,take the one from rear.I did puthe doorman pipe on, front engine block side.easy. I had too take both plastic valves off the old tensioner,ontop,and put them in the new autozone one. One is a pita..it was an i ring in the neck..took a while too force it in.
Tomorrow am,bubba install alternator,after and hopefully I get the tensioner bolts on. You have only a 3,31/2 hour window of opportunity,to do this. Get ready for woerk.if the tensioner bolts wernt giving me a hard time,use be done.
The other issue,is the thermostat,the housing. Their was no thermostat when I looked.I noted,on 2 sides of the intake thermostat housing,block,thie r 2 small pieces of metal, slightly outwards,like someone ripped out something from thier. New thermostat,a stand i bought at advance auto, will not go in,because of the 2 pieces up and out. Maybe I'll try too bend them in.
The other issue,is the thermostat,the housing. Their was no thermostat when I looked.I noted,on 2 sides of the intake thermostat housing,block,thie r 2 small pieces of metal, slightly outwards,like someone ripped out something from thier. New thermostat,a stand i bought at advance auto, will not go in,because of the 2 pieces up and out. Maybe I'll try too bend them in.
After so much discussion, you have put silicone grease (known as "dielectric grease", etc) on the o-rings, right? You should be able to push the tensioner all the way on by hand. Do not force it with the bolts, something will break. Remove all the bolts and compare length, you may be trying to put a long bolt in the short hole.
I have no idea what you're talking about with the "thermostat housing". Since you didn't find a thermostat there, it is possible you are looking in entirely the wrong place and not at the thermostat housing at all. Can you post pictures?
I have no idea what you're talking about with the "thermostat housing". Since you didn't find a thermostat there, it is possible you are looking in entirely the wrong place and not at the thermostat housing at all. Can you post pictures?
It's the thermostat housing.looked again today..gonna see if if Napa has a thermstat,m compare the one advance auto sold me see if thie r different. Not sure advance sold me the right one.
However! I got it running today! Took for drive,about 15 minutes,some smoke,but dissapeared. Came from her tube area.so far,it's gone.ran goid,temp light didn't come on..(this car didn't have a temp needle in dash,just a temp warning light).
However! I got it running today! Took for drive,about 15 minutes,some smoke,but dissapeared. Came from her tube area.so far,it's gone.ran goid,temp light didn't come on..(this car didn't have a temp needle in dash,just a temp warning light).
Well,drive about 4 miles too work...radiator was down a bit,but that could be because I simply poured the coolant from draining back in, till it was full, started for about 19 minutes,drive down street n back. At work,on lunch,noticed it was down...so added more till f ull.I didn't do a correct till n drain of air,due too time too get too work.see what happens today. Check engine light was on,so hope I'm not burning coolant. Theirs no most or water smoke coming from muffler,but acrylic converter makes this weird clunking noise when starting,last for 20 seconds or so. I'll try the o2 sensors...replace both. Go outside laTer,see the coolant level.
The thermostat is supposed to come with a seal around it that fits into the recess of the lower intake manifold. It won't drop in flush. There's supposed to be a squish factor when tightening the thermostat housing down onto the thermostat seal.
I like to butter the thermostat housing with Permatex Ultra Black.
"Butter" means spread out evenly with a thin layer.
I like to butter the thermostat housing with Permatex Ultra Black.
"Butter" means spread out evenly with a thin layer.
Theirs 2 sidebars,on the sides of the thermostat...that's what is I art preventing it from going in..couldn't I just cut those off? I saw an ad delco thermostat,on rockauto,picture showed out didn't have those sidebars.
The other factor,is the 2 ripped up looking areas both sides of intake thermostat seating..like someone took a strong piuck,and ripped up.
The other factor,is the 2 ripped up looking areas both sides of intake thermostat seating..like someone took a strong piuck,and ripped up.
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GM 24505924 or ACDelco 131120
It's supposed to look like this:
It's supposed to look like this:
Well! I found out,their was half a thermostat in the intake. The top was ripped off,!and the bottom was missing...all it was,was the center ring,plus gasket,of the thermostat.sounds like chop shop stuff too me.
It worked fine, 1 day after, cell comes on. Ran a code scanner,same thing,,p 0402 code. I believe i can smell coolant at startup, not when engine is at running temperature,coming in through vent with fan on. I have had too add half gallon of coolant so far,power 3 days,checking radiator level hours after turning car off.
I'm gonna use a bow beam torque wrench,which I have, and loosen only,the intake valves,and re tighten them too spec,with it. Their supposed too be the most reliable and accurate torque wrenches....
I do know,I put a generous amount of rt v sealant on,on top the corners of the plastic sidepieces,and under them. All I can think,is maybe the intake manifold didn't seat right on the rubber parts of the gaskets?
It worked fine, 1 day after, cell comes on. Ran a code scanner,same thing,,p 0402 code. I believe i can smell coolant at startup, not when engine is at running temperature,coming in through vent with fan on. I have had too add half gallon of coolant so far,power 3 days,checking radiator level hours after turning car off.
I'm gonna use a bow beam torque wrench,which I have, and loosen only,the intake valves,and re tighten them too spec,with it. Their supposed too be the most reliable and accurate torque wrenches....
I do know,I put a generous amount of rt v sealant on,on top the corners of the plastic sidepieces,and under them. All I can think,is maybe the intake manifold didn't seat right on the rubber parts of the gaskets?
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I let the rt v dry like 48 hours.perhaps the rubber on the gadket,didn't seat into the square holes on the intake manifold? Perhaps the plastic side bars under it? I put rt v on the ends,generiously,on all four corners.
Code P0420 is not caused by a manifold leak. Entirely different problem.
The need to top up coolant may just be the air working its way out of the system. Drive for a few more days, checking the level to see if there really is a leak.
Do not loosen the bolts that will likely mess up the seal and you'll have to do it all over again with new gaskets.
The need to top up coolant may just be the air working its way out of the system. Drive for a few more days, checking the level to see if there really is a leak.
Do not loosen the bolts that will likely mess up the seal and you'll have to do it all over again with new gaskets.
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