Just had to hasve my transmission rebuilt, torque converter clutch shredded itself at 117k miles. Transmission has been flushed twice in its life time, first time around 50k miles. Both flushed came out looking like chocolate syrup, despite pan drops in between flushes. I was wondering if this was a sign of transmission problems? Transmission place said the clutches were burnt. What is the new oil to use in place of dexron II, I have been using Dex III recently, but now even that is hard to find. Any ideas guys? P.S. I dont want any expensive exotic oils like amsoil etc, just regular oil I can find at a parts store like Autozone
97 Avalon Dexron II
- Thread starter parimento1
- Start date
- Status
Whatever the house brand DexIII/Merc ATF is where you go will work.I'd step up a little to Maxlife Dex/Merc considering the problem you've been having.
Your location is terribly abusive to transmissions.
Mobil1 and Royalpurple have full synthetic options and are available in many autoparts stores.
If budget is an issue, ANY MerconV or multivehicle/universal ATF would be an upgrade to dexII/III. I would not even bother with a mineral Dex ATF.
You should consider an ATF cooler to deal with typical NYC driving/traffic. And, I would also recommend installing an ATF filter. Magnefine/permacool would be easy choices.
You also need to adjust your drain/refill intervals accordingly. If you see the fluid change color, then it is due for a flush or drain/refill. The better fluids will last longer.
30k full flush intervals is the MAX for NYC. 7.5k drain/refills is the other option. Either will work well.
Don't forget the differential that may have its own drain/fill plugs. I would definitely use a synth there and change it every <30k miles.
Mobil1 and Royalpurple have full synthetic options and are available in many autoparts stores.
If budget is an issue, ANY MerconV or multivehicle/universal ATF would be an upgrade to dexII/III. I would not even bother with a mineral Dex ATF.
You should consider an ATF cooler to deal with typical NYC driving/traffic. And, I would also recommend installing an ATF filter. Magnefine/permacool would be easy choices.
You also need to adjust your drain/refill intervals accordingly. If you see the fluid change color, then it is due for a flush or drain/refill. The better fluids will last longer.
30k full flush intervals is the MAX for NYC. 7.5k drain/refills is the other option. Either will work well.
Don't forget the differential that may have its own drain/fill plugs. I would definitely use a synth there and change it every <30k miles.
Yes you are correct the differential has its own fluid reservoir, which was never changed. It's good that the MV ATF will work and is an upgrade over Dex III. Also, since I had the transmission rebuilt, after sitting overnight, if I start it and then drop it directly into drive, the car will not move for about 5 seconds, I can feel the car shift into drive, but when the gas pedal is floored, the revs will shoot up likea slipping transmission, then start to drop as the car slowly starts to move as usual. It is the weirdest thing, almost like all the fluid is draining from the torque converter overnight and has to refill before moving in the morning. Took it back to the shop, couldnt reproduce the problem, which I sortof believe since it only occurs in the first 5 secs after start up and only then after sitting all night. I know this isnt a technical forum, but I was wondering if you guys have any idea
Check your ATF level when running, hot, on a level surface, and when hot. Sounds like you're low.
Did they replace the VB or any solenoids during the rebuild? They should have. Could be a slow solenoid, or the wiring to it, which should be cleaned along with all drivetrain grounds.
Did they replace the VB or any solenoids during the rebuild? They should have. Could be a slow solenoid, or the wiring to it, which should be cleaned along with all drivetrain grounds.
ATF is full. They installed a shift kit, so that would mean playing around with the valve body. No solenoids were replaced, clutches and bands were replaced as was the torque converter.
I'm not gonna beg you to buy Amsoil, but sometimes you get what you pay for.
The choco syrup part bugs me....are you sure there's not a leak in your cooler? I suggest an ATF UOA.
The choco syrup part bugs me....are you sure there's not a leak in your cooler? I suggest an ATF UOA.
Also...almost forgot, wouldnt a slow solenoid set off a transmission DTC?
yea when I flushed the transmission the last time before the rebuild the color of it was very dark, like very old engine oil. Ever since the rebuild the fluid has stayed nice and clean (then again i only have about 4k miles on the fluid so i hope it would still be clean!). Only prob I have now currently is the weird morning 'slipping' or whatever it id.
No, you'd be surprised how much needs to fail before an error pops up. You'd also be surprised how little can cause issues.
The solenoids should've been replaced. A quality rebuild includes this.
I recommend that you try a good flowing full synthetic. Flush it out with M1, Redline, Ams, or RP and see if that helps the cold flow issue. If the synth doesn't help, you need to remove and test the solenoids cold.
The solenoids should've been replaced. A quality rebuild includes this.
I recommend that you try a good flowing full synthetic. Flush it out with M1, Redline, Ams, or RP and see if that helps the cold flow issue. If the synth doesn't help, you need to remove and test the solenoids cold.
I took the car to the shop today they think it might be a converter drainback issue, whereby all the fluid in the torque converter slowly drains back into the pan and has to be refilled when started, which causes the car not to move at first start up. He told me to check the fluid in the morn and see if it rose significantly overnight. If it does, its a converter drainback issue
If you want to prove the converter drainback wrong, on a cold morning, disconnect and aim the ATF cooler hose into a bucket. Have someone start the car. If ATF flow is immediate and doesn't take 5 seconds, then they're wrong.
I've pulled converters off without losing 5 seconds worth of ATF.
I've pulled converters off without losing 5 seconds worth of ATF.
Well this morning I checked the dipstick, didnt see your last post, undummy, and the fluid didnt really move since the night before, started the car, shifted immediately into drive, car move away right away no 'slipping' no delay. I hope the valve body job fixed it, I will know for sure in a few days I guess.
First Toyota recomends draining and refilling that transmission every 15K-18K miles since you only get about 4-5 quarts out of it.I like M1 ATF and have excellent results from it in Toyota's. Another excellent product thatis a bit more affordable is Maxlife DexIII ATF. Toyota put that drain plug on the transmission to encourge freq. fluid exchanges. Doing it every 50,000 miles is not good enough!It is more important to do them freq. then to use a fancy synthetic fluid.I also have recently had good results with Lucas Transmission Fix.
Thanks for the reply,I will definitely use the above fluids...just wondering if like draining and filling every 10k or so miles or doing a complete flush every 50 is better? I also found out that the differential in my newly rebuilt transmission is on its way out. My mechanic found it when changing the axle today. There is some play between the differential and axle where the axle shaft goes into the diff. The transmission place where I had it rebuilt says it is normal, my mechanic and another transmission place say there is excessive play. I WONDER who is telling the truth. Needless to say the rebuilt transmission is still under warranty. The transmission guy claims if the bearing in the diff went bad, then the diff would be leaking oil. Any input from your guys is greatly appreciated.
- Status
