94 Dodge Caravan 3.3L transmission leak, shifting problem

D

dw85745

Joined
Mar 23, 2026
Messages
16
I'm the original owner.
The vehicle has ~125K miles.
Transaxle Fuid was changed at 80K ,and 103K.
Around 110K, I had a radiator bypass hose blow and the engine hit the red line before I noticed it and shut down.
Engine fine, but shortly after that, I started leaking a small amount (less than a quart a year) of ATF4, from the bell housing.
(My guess is front pump seal NOT the convertor).
I've noticed also hard shifting from Reverse to Drive at first Startup in the Morning and Sitting overnight, once in awhile.
If I wait 2 minutes, the hard shifing mitigates itself (sometimes not, or not as hard).
The last month or two the hard shift has gotten more frequent and worse.

Would a Change of Fluid *ATF4" or Lubguard Red help mitigate the: (1) leak, or (2) Hard Shifting?

Regards.
 
dw85745 said:
I'm the original owner.
The vehicle has ~125K miles.
Transaxle Fuid was changed at 80K ,and 103K.
Around 110K, I had a radiator bypass hose blow and the engine hit the red line before I noticed it and shut down.
Engine fine, but shortly after that, I started leaking a small amount (less than a quart a year) of ATF4, from the bell housing.
(My guess is front pump seal NOT the convertor).
I've noticed also hard shifting from Reverse to Drive at first Startup in the Morning and Sitting overnight, once in awhile.
If I wait 2 minutes, the hard shifing mitigates itself (sometimes not, or not as hard).
The last month or two the hard shift has gotten more frequent and worse.

Would a Change of Fluid *ATF4" or Lubguard Red help mitigate the: (1) leak, or (2) Hard Shifting?

Regards.
Click to expand...
When you say the fluid was changed at 80k & 103k was that a complete change or a drain & fill?
 
and were your last changes done using ATF+4? My '14 had a change at 70K with BG universal transmission fluid...against my better judgement. I gradually had shifting quality issues over the next 35K. I then changed it myself using the correct ATF+4 and after about 5K the shifting has gone back to being very good.
 
Forgot to mention fluid is clear and light red on the stick and no burnt smell to it.
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martinq
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When you say the fluid was changed at 80k & 103k was that a complete change or a drain & fill?

At 80K, I ran the engine and pumped the ATF (likely had ATF-3 at that time) out of the coolant lines and at the same time poured ATF4 in.
About 6 months after that, I pulled the pan and put a pan and filter in, just to make sure I got everything.
At 103K, just dropped the pan and put a new filter in.
Both pan drops showed no sign of metal shavings, with a very small amount of clutch material.

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iahawk
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Yes. ATF+4
 
dw85745 said:
Forgot to mention fluid is clear and light red on the stick and no burnt smell to it.
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martinq
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When you say the fluid was changed at 80k & 103k was that a complete change or a drain & fill?

At 80K, I ran the engine and pumped the ATF (likely had ATF-3 at that time) out of the coolant lines and at the same time poured ATF4 in.
About 6 months after that, I pulled the pan and put a pan and filter in, just to make sure I got everything.
At 103K, just dropped the pan and put a new filter in.
Both pan drops showed no sign of metal shavings, with a very small amount of clutch material.

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iahawk
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Yes. ATF+4
Click to expand...
Sounds like you did a proper fluid change and cleanup, good work! I'm assuming you also cleaned up the magnets during those pan-drops and everything looked normal.

In this case I'd be tempted to drop the pan again to inspect, it has been over 20k since the last change. I would also be searching for forums with experience in this specific transmission. I'd also look for information on inspecting the valve body.

Do you have access to the service manual for this vehicle / transmission?
 
From reading the wiki page on Dodge Caravan is looks like you have the 4-speed 41TE / A604 transmission.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultradrive

"
The most common problems (shift stuck-, limp mode-, blocking problems) with the Chrysler Ultradrive transmissions are poor shifting quality and sudden locks into second gear ("limp-home" mode) caused by the transmission computer detecting problems with sensor data. Nine design changes were made in an attempt to fix clutch failure, and four were directed to excessive shifting on hills.[10]

After pressure from the US Center for Auto Safety,[11] Consumer Reports, and others, Chrysler LLC promised[citation needed] to waive the $100 deductible in the warranty, provide loaners, and buy back any cars with Ultradrives that could not be fixed (US located cars only). Chrysler ran a campaign to contact all American owners of cars with Ultradrives to find and fix problems.[12]
"

There's a handy 120 page PDF here that goes over the changes:
https://procarmanuals.com/chrysler-...ed-atsg-automatic-transmission-service-group/
 
Fresh fluid never hurt anything
Have you scanned for codes?
Here's a tedious but informative Chrysler training video on the A604


At that age and mileage, if it hasn't been apart once, it could be heading for a rebuild
They weren't the greatest brand new 🤷‍♂️
Has it ever been out/rebuilt?

There's a long list of A/T related TSBs, I'd give them a quick once over
https://lemon-manuals.la/Dodge and ...ir and Diagnosis/Technical Service Bulletins/
 
Thanks to all for responding.
FWIW:

(1) Because this is ODB-I, biggest problem I have is how to get codes from the transaxle.
As I understand it requires a DRM-II or DRM-III (that may be DRB not DRM, going from memory)
which is NOT available. Engine codes are accessible using the ignition switch, AND no issues there.

(2) Personally I think it is a mechanical NOT an electrical issue.,

With THIS POST, though not stated, was hoping that someone might know whether there might be a sealer
in the ATF-4 which disipates over time (or from heat) SUCH THAT a partial fluid change might stop my
bell housing leak (assuming front pump seal) OR THAT the Lubguard-Red might be of some benefit.
Not into snake oil additives, though have read some good things about AT205 (but iffy at best).

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martinq
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Do you have access to the service manual for this vehicle / transmission?
Click to expand...
Yes. Also found a couple on the Net.
Thanks for the link to the changes.
MichaelLuscher post after yours provided me with a video (haven't looked at yet)

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MichaelLuscher
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Has it ever been out/rebuilt?
Click to expand...
No.

Michael: Thanks for the link to the video and TSB list.

Regards,
 
The easiest thing to do would be to drop the pan, inspect & clean. Then fill, run, drain, fill (2 or 3x) and see if there's any improvement.

Aside from that I think you're looking at a transmission rebuild with the updated parts or a transmission swap.
 
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martinq
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Thank for all your efforts on my behalf.
I'll give a fluid refill a try.


Aside from that I think you're looking at a transmission rebuild with the updated parts or a transmission swap.
Click to expand...
That's what I was hoping not to do. Not a lot of these old 41TE's still around (to get a reman). With all the
"improvements" over the years, IMHO a local rebuild presents a problem, as how is the rebuilder to know
where my transaxle sits on the TSB change list versus Chryslers final. Can it even be upgraded to the last change?
SADLY, don't think its worth buying all the tools to do it myself - coupled with lack of expertise on transaxles.
 
You likely are looking at a major repair...It probably has an A604 transmission. Probably the worst transmission Chrysler ever made. An ATF+4 change might get you lucky results with shift issues but I doubt it would help the leak. You got nothing to lose by trying.
 
dw85745 said:
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martinq
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Thank for all your efforts on my behalf.
I'll give a fluid refill a try.



That's what I was hoping not to do. Not a lot of these old 41TE's still around (to get a reman). With all the
"improvements" over the years, IMHO a local rebuild presents a problem, as how is the rebuilder to know
where my transaxle sits on the TSB change list versus Chryslers final. Can it even be upgraded to the last change?
SADLY, don't think its worth buying all the tools to do it myself - coupled with lack of expertise on transaxles.
Click to expand...
I would plan to do a pan-drop and start shopping around for an established transmission shop with significant experience with THIS family of transmissions. I don't think there's too many of these 94 trannies on the road today but I'm sure there's plenty of shops that have had (and still have) talented staff on hand who know this unit.

If you want to keep the car I think it'd be worth it but that's entirely up to you.
 
Thanks to ALL for responding.
In regard to "Capt W" link: (https://www.chryslerminivan.net/),
I've read a lot of material there and issues brought forth with the 41TE, such that a "major" repair may be needed. Was hoping that someone on this site might of had a simple "fluid" resolution.
Would really like to do it myself, for the experience, but would feel more comfortable with someone looking over my shoulder..
 
There's many OBD1 scan tools that can scan codes and view live data on this vehicle

Any Snap on from the MT2500 (aka red brick 🧱) up to current models can do it
OTC/Bosch made a few
All available in varying conditions at various price points on eBay

I've got a few I've refurbished on the shelf as a last resort if you get to that point

I helped someone on here with an A604/41TE
Edit:
Wylie6G72

Thread 'Chrysler A604 help'

Hey guys, 1993 Dodge Shadow, 3.0 and A604 transmission. Got up this morning and cleaned up the engine bay from yesterday's transmission fluid change, (searching for a fluid leak, long story). Degreaser on the oily parts, then a 5-gallon bucket of hot soapy water, and another bucket of clear hot water to rinse. Towel dried the major stuff off, and installed a new idle air control valve, as the old one was acting strange. Went and ran some errands for about an hour and the car drove and shifted flawlessly. It sat in the driveway for a few hours, then I washed it. Went to go on another errand...
 
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MichaelLuscher
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Thanks for responding
Went to EBay, but Not sure what I really need.
Hopefully you can answer some of my questions?

Engine Scan Codes (PCM) is available with KeyOn/KeyOff (3 times) for OBD-I.
There is also a connector inside the Engine Compartment (as I recall this writing).

Based on my EBay looks, it appears that the DRB (can be) updated with various TSB information through modules.
(a lot are sold on EBay.)

So at a minimum I need the DRB-II or DRB-III AND a cable -AND/OR- some other unit as you indicated.

----------------
Questions (assume applies to DRB or any other unit)
------------
1. Does the DRB-III interface with (have the info for OBD-1)?
----I assume here there is an adapter cable to deal with the plug difference between OBD-II and OBD-I)
2. IF not, and a DRB-II is required, how does one know if if (the DRB) has been updated to a point equal to or greater than the last upgrade on my 41TE (the DRB may show that, whether the person selling on EBay know is ??)
3. Does one use the Engine Compartment plug to access the 41TE information, or is it obtained through some other plug?
----If so, where is that plug?
 
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Look under the dash near the steering column for a blue 6 way or black 8 way connector
1780286639972.webp


Or, same connectors, under hood near the battery/PCM
1780286749659.webp

Report back on your findings

You need a bit more information than the key cycle can show in the cluster
Or, a competent transmission shop

I'm overstocked on primitive vehicle diagnostic equipment, so is eBay
But there's no point wasting your time and money if it's flat out worn out, or had a hard part failure

Here's some workflow and Transmission error codes
https://lemon-manuals.la/Dodge and ...ocedures/2 Entering 41TE/AE Diagnostic Tests/
 
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