94 Bronco full size making severe noise when idle

[M1Accord]

Originally Posted By: QuadDriver
btw - its curious which air distribution modes made the noise. the default for no vaccum is in fact floor/vent. check the 'coffee cans' that serve as reservoirs for rust, might have a bad one.

oh, and sell it to me if you dont want it. If you do want it, I have an 87 XLT fullsize a hour ride from you that you can get for cheap and fix up as well or canniblize


Floor and Vent modes make no noise and there is heat coming through. Noise comes on whenever other modes are selected. Of course, it didn't do that when I test-drove it. Actually, it didn't do it later when I used it. I came on when someone else played with the knobs. Again, the lesson I learned is not to have anyone touch my vehicle unless they are a mechanic and they are being paid to work on it. Pure and simple. Most people just don't give a rat about their own vehicles so they wouldn't care about yours.

 

[The_Jeff]

So if a passenger tries to use a power window or adjust the seat and the car happens to break when they do this are you going to blame them? You have a new-to-you ride and are working the bugs out; it's not fair to blame third parties for undiscovered maintenance issues.

(Though I'd love to return to 1970s cars with the HVAC controls to the left of the steering wheel where only the driver can reach them.

Passenger gets a clock on the glovebox to fiddle with.)

 

[QuadDriver]

Originally Posted By: M1Accord
Originally Posted By: calvin1
Only use the 4x4 on loose/slick surfaces, and wet doesn't count. Also, don't bet your life on the hubs if they're still the autos. I wouldn't even be sure they're still working until you've seen both front wheels break loose.


Could you explain why people are so fascinate with manual hub. Most modern 4x4 and even those in the same era have auto hub. I tested the 4x4 and it works fine. I just need to pull over and put it in Neutral. Some people say that is unnecessary but they don't have to pay for repair bills so they don't get to make the call. I put everything in Neutral first before any change in gear engagement or orientation. That is why there is a Neutral mode there. A lot of people skip that when shifting the slush box from Reverse to Drive or Vice Versa, doing it while the vehicle still in motion. I feel bad for those transmission.


Dont bet too much on that. some vehicles (like the newer 88+ chevies for example) activate the transfer case AND pull a collet on the front axle to tie it together. wastes a bit more fuel than a true wheel disconnect but no hubs. the point about the automatic hubs on the D44IFS axle is very salient. Im not saying you must goto manual hubs, but I would take those apart and clean/properly lube them. With the miles you have we can guess that at least 2 sets of rotors are on that truck, meaning the hubs came off twice. did the mech reman/rebuild them or slap em back on? besides, the manual hubs are so simple in operation and maint - anyone can do them. you dont even need to jack up the vehicle.

 

[calvin1]

Originally Posted By: M1Accord
Originally Posted By: calvin1
Only use the 4x4 on loose/slick surfaces, and wet doesn't count. Also, don't bet your life on the hubs if they're still the autos. I wouldn't even be sure they're still working until you've seen both front wheels break loose.


Could you explain why people are so fascinate with manual hub. Most modern 4x4 and even those in the same era have auto hub. I tested the 4x4 and it works fine. I just need to pull over and put it in Neutral. Some people say that is unnecessary but they don't have to pay for repair bills so they don't get to make the call. I put everything in Neutral first before any change in gear engagement or orientation. That is why there is a Neutral mode there. A lot of people skip that when shifting the slush box from Reverse to Drive or Vice Versa, doing it while the vehicle still in motion. I feel bad for those transmission.
There's a reason why Chevy and Dodge went to full time hubs. Ford tried for years to perfect the auto hubs, first with the spring loaded ones on yours and then later with the vacuum powered ones. My BIL went through 3 sets of vac powered hubs on his. My 96 came to me with a dead hub so I swapped both out for Warn Premiums. My Warns have a lifetime warranty. Try to find a spring loaded auto hub that will give you the same guarantees. Those hubs are just waiting to break your heart, either fail to engage or fail to disengage. They're also [censored] when you need to rock back and forth as the spring autos unlock and relock with every direction change, you hope at least.

Over on the Bronco enthusiast board I frequent they actually have a pool each fall for when the first "my hubs don't work" post will show up.

 

[Vikas]

All I am telling you is that if you later decided to fix the A/C compressor, you will need to put lot more parts than just the compressor.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: calvin1
Originally Posted By: M1Accord
Originally Posted By: calvin1
Only use the 4x4 on loose/slick surfaces, and wet doesn't count. Also, don't bet your life on the hubs if they're still the autos. I wouldn't even be sure they're still working until you've seen both front wheels break loose.


Could you explain why people are so fascinate with manual hub. Most modern 4x4 and even those in the same era have auto hub. I tested the 4x4 and it works fine. I just need to pull over and put it in Neutral. Some people say that is unnecessary but they don't have to pay for repair bills so they don't get to make the call. I put everything in Neutral first before any change in gear engagement or orientation. That is why there is a Neutral mode there. A lot of people skip that when shifting the slush box from Reverse to Drive or Vice Versa, doing it while the vehicle still in motion. I feel bad for those transmission.
There's a reason why Chevy and Dodge went to full time hubs. Ford tried for years to perfect the auto hubs, first with the spring loaded ones on yours and then later with the vacuum powered ones. My BIL went through 3 sets of vac powered hubs on his. My 96 came to me with a dead hub so I swapped both out for Warn Premiums. My Warns have a lifetime warranty. Try to find a spring loaded auto hub that will give you the same guarantees. Those hubs are just waiting to break your heart, either fail to engage or fail to disengage. They're also [censored] when you need to rock back and forth as the spring autos unlock and relock with every direction change, you hope at least.

Over on the Bronco enthusiast board I frequent they actually have a pool each fall for when the first "my hubs don't work" post will show up.


Yup, a quick look at the Explorer and Expedition which use full-time hubs is a good indication that it wasn't working all that well for Ford. Though they continued to use it in the Super Duty for quite a while......