93 Dodge Spirit

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i just brought home a 93 Dodge Spirit as a replacement daily driver for my Suzuki Sidekick(it spit out a spark plug from an already heli-coiled port.)i had been salting away a little money to buy an 80's mustang or charger as a fun hobby car.
but when the zuki spit up i had to have a daily driver that got decent gas mileage,so my stash got sacrificed to practicality.my habit of perusing craigslist yielded this car.a 93 dodge spirit with 76 k on the odometer.
the car was up around atlanta so me and the wife took a ride.when i got to the owners house i was a bit let down .the pics of the did not do it justice.it was in serious need of paint.it appears the car was originally oxblood and then had a cheap reddish metallic paint job.on the plus side the interior was about 90% good.it only had 1 ding and a pair of cracked signal lenses,it had 2 new tires(pep boys),new brake pads and rotors on the front.under the hood the 2.5 looked to be in decent shape.
after a 5 mile test drive i felt it was acceptable.i talked with the owner to get an idea of the history of the car.turns out he did not know much about the car.he and his son buy cars from car lots that the dealers deem unsalable and junk them.but they felt this car was too good to junk and put a few bucks into the brakes and an oil change.i forked over a grand and drove it home.
the front tires were badly dry rotted and cracked so the drive was a bit on the edge.but it turned out uneventful.
the car got 23 mpg on the drive home (about 160 miles) which was not as good as i hoped.after getting home and subjecting the car to a closer exam i came to the conclusion that the car was not abused but had been neglected.as i said the interior was in very good shape,the engine was not oily/grimy.however the anti freeze was brown and the brake fluid was gray.the oil was good and the transmission fluid looked and smelled ok.one spark plug wire has a small gouge in the outer coating,the champion spark plugs seem to be clean,though i have yet to pull one.
so now the plan is to flush the radiator and brake fluid.replace the plug wires ,rotor and distributor cap and maybe the plugs after i take a look at them.see if this improves the mpg.
i had the bad tires replaced and the mechanic said all of the front end hardware looked good.but i know it needs shocks as it wallows around corners.
maybe,just maybe after the major tune up and shock replacements the car will turn out to be fun.any ideas for tweaks guys?
 
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Sounds like you got a decent ride for about $1500 all together after maintenance/repairs. Maybe do a run of ARx as well, even considering the low miles. Wouldn't be a bad idea to do a couple drain and fills of the transmission fluid even though you said it looks OK, putting in some LG Red with the second one. If you plan/hope to keep it more than a year or two, maybe get a $500-600 Maaco paint job. Last winter they had their second from best pain job (single coat poly) for I think $549.
 
The 2.5 is a tough motor, but it's probably due for a timing belt. You'll probably need to support the motor and undo the passenger side motor mount. If it's like the Omni, just undo the bolts where the mount attaches to the fender, and jack the motor a 1/2" to feed the belt around it.
 
Flush the rad with water for now. These things blow head gaskets BUT BUT BUT Great news! You can fix the gasket in an afternoon, first time.

They blow so exhaust gas gets into the coolant, so with the car idling look in the overflow tank for bubbles.

The trick to doing it quick is to zip tie the timing belt to the cam pulley, then detach it and hang it from the hood by a bungee cord. Pull the head bolts and jack up on the catalytic convertor. The intake and exhaust are both on the firewall side so the rad side of the motor is clear. You get about an inch of clearance and can slip the old gasket out and the new one in.

That's it... the head never needs machining, so why bother taking it all the way off?

For your MPG I bet you have NO thermostat. The exhaust gas makes a bubble behind it which insulates it, so people just pull them, then the exhaust makes it to the radiator and on out.

This is not the murder for your motor that you think it is, as oil and water don't mix, and compression doesn't suffer.

There's a great write up on allpar.com about this.

I had a 94 spirit a while back, it actually got me into flipping cars, like your previous owner, LOL. I made a new years resolution to get serious about tearing into motors so I bought that spirit with serious HG issues and actually got it running right, to my own amazement!

As for tweaks, there are lots of turbo 2.2 and 2.5s; I bet you could get a rusted out northern car for low $100s, grab the motor and scrap the chassis.
 
thanks guys.
i have changed the rotor and distributor cap and did a minor flush of the radiator.i've put some injector cleaner in each of the 2 tanks of gas i've gotten so far.the car is running pretty smooth now .last tanks combined mpg was 22.2.
the rotor tip was eroded on the old one which was a straight ended one,the new rotor tip has a thick almost trident shape.
the thermostat seems to be cycling okay it runs up about 60% of the gauge and then drops down to 25% of the gauge.however the heater output seemed a bit weak so i may go ahead and replace the thermostat as has been recommended.
tonights plan is another minor rad flush and removal/refill of some of the ugly brake fluid.
it's nice having a well-lit carport to tinker in after work.
 
they dont blow head gaskets if the cooling system has been maintained.

I have a 90 Daytona with 150K on it and I run 20 Psi of boost and does not hick up. I have 3 other Turbo dodges with 2.2 and 2.5's and have never ever had a head gasket fail.

Look at the radiator closely, if the fins are all green dead metal falling out, they will run hot and that is what kills the head gasket. the good news is the radaitor is a 5 minute job to repalce and is about 100$
 
When you do the thermostat drill a little hole in the top of the flange. You will not be able to undo the allen screw on its housing (rust) and therefore air will get stuck behind the thermo before it opens its first time.

The hole will also help coolant "tickle" the thermo with a little flow, and its action will be less abrupt. Less thermostat cycling means less heat cycling on the head gasket, less stress, a good thing.
 
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