I'm looking at an 89 Chevrolet 2wheel drive pickup with 305 engine. My 91 that I am replacing is a 4WD. Can the rear end be easily swapped out for a 2 wheel drive rear end with locking rear differential? What all is involved?
89 Chevrolet locking rear differential
- Thread starter otis24
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To clarify, can the rear end on the 89 2WD be replaced with a 2WD locking rear differential? Since it is a mechanical locker, what else is involved?
Might want to specify if you're talking about replacing the whole axle from drum to drum or just the guts.
Whole axle.
Isn't the 2wd 5 lug while 4x4 is 6 lug? At least the 1 /2 ton trucks?
Yeah, only 5 lug on the 2wd half tons. Another potential stumbling block is the gear ratio. ie, the axle out of the 2wd would need to match the front diff of the 4wd it's going into.
Is just buying a locker of your choice and either learning how to set it up, or finding a competent shop not an option?
With front wheels chocked securely, raise the rear of the pickup and remove the tires.
Secure jackstands under the frame so the axle hangs free.
Disconnect drive shaft from rear yoke. Disconnect parking brake cables. Disconnect and cap hydraulic brake line. Remove shock absorbers. You may find other things, like anti lock sensors to disconnect.
Place a floor jack under the differential to support it. Loosen U-bolt nuts securing axle tube to leaf springs, but don't completely remove, unless you want to try to remove the axle without dropping the springs from the rear shackles. This is the hard way, and I'd never recommend one person attempt to do it alone. Assuming you won't, remove the bolts that connect the springs to the shackles. Releasing the floor jack, gently lower the axle to the ground. Remove the U-bolts, remove the axle assembly.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
While you have everything apart, check your front spring bushings for play. You don't want to put everything back together with bad 30 year old bushings. Same with the shackle bushings. Front bushings can be difficult to replace. You may be able to borrow a special tool from a parts store, or check Amazon or Harbor Freight. At this point, consider replacing the springs. Absolutely do so if there are any cracked leaves, or appear compromised. By the time you get bushings and a tool, you might be time and money ahead to replace the springs.
Whether you do or not, I always replace the U-bolts and nuts. To avoid crushing the axle tubes, be sure to not over-torque the U-bolt nuts.
That's an overview based on my experience with Mopar muscle cars, which also use rear leaf springs. You should get a manual for exact instructions and torque specs. Be sure to follow all safety precautions!
It's a big job for a DIYer, but is done all the time. The second time will be easier!
Good luck.
I would find a locking rear end from a 2WD pickup to put in it.
I would imagine swapping axles on 30+ year old rustbelt trucks will be a nightmare.
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Yep, two floor jacks, jack stands, chocks, new U bolts, shackles/bolts, and maybe an angle grinder …
(or Victor wrench) …
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